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i drove all the way to LA to see this thing today. immaculate donor car... looks awfully familiar for some reason...
joey is really meticulous
the parts list of off the charts
the execution is immaculate
very nice build
Just getting started!!!!
Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
Yup all the way from Florida, via Mooty :-)
Lots of provenance.
Might be the most expensive C2 in the country!
Battery in, steering wheel almost done, need to pull brake proportion valve, brake/clutch bleed, tidy up a few things, install the heater bypass, and complete the alignment/setup.
A bit more work to do but chassis step is almost done.
P.S. the OCD side of me is looking at those battery cables and wanting to replace them LOL.
P.P.S. Car is on the scales getting initial setup. With all the new chassis pieces, e88 wheels, tires, brakes, lithium battery, Mod07 wheel, heater bypass car has shed about 100lbs to 2900 from 3003 as it sat. The dampers, rotors, and wheels are quite a bit lighter than what was on there. Of course I'll be putting some of that back in with a roll bar. But goal is to remove another 150 and get to 2750 or so. I think it will be achievable w/o too much stress: interior strip, light carpets, no sound deadening, pole position seats, lower dash delete, passenger airbag delete, radio delete, rear wiper delete, carbon wing, lighter engine mounts, light flywheel, light pulley/belt system from rothsport, possibly a carbon hood.
Looks great! My car is down to 2785 with 1/4 tank of gas. It does have the DAS roll bar installed. I still need to switch out the lower dash delete to shave off a few extra pounds. Also looking at a few other ideas to shed some weight, but don't know if I truly want to go the route of emptying my bank account further....
Looks great! My car is down to 2785 with 1/4 tank of gas. It does have the DAS roll bar installed. I still need to switch out the lower dash delete to shave off a few extra pounds. Also looking at a few other ideas to shed some weight, but don't know if I truly want to go the route of emptying my bank account further....
LOL. 2 ways to shed weight, spend $ or cut things off :-)
I'm not going crazy here as I still want the car to be civil and streetable.
Stuff I'm doing is the "easy" stuff.
P.S. I will put a steering wheel back on the car LOL! And that's not a shift boot!
LOL. 2 ways to shed weight, spend $ or cut things off :-)
I'm not going crazy here as I still want the car to be civil and streetable.
Stuff I'm doing is the "easy" stuff.
P.S. I will put a steering wheel back on the car LOL! And that's not a shift boot!
Oh I did the easy stuff as well. Now I need to decide if I truly "need" that Al hood.... Haha
Brake system bled, removed proportion valve, car balanced and setup, just need to finish off a few details Monday. Car is setup nice and aggressive the way I like it. Close!
Here are a bunch more pics under the car. Note prior to completing setup.
Brake system bled, removed proportion valve, car balanced and setup, just need to finish off a few details Monday. Car is setup nice and aggressive the way I like it. Close!
Here are a bunch more pics under the car. Note prior to completing setup.
After all that and no monoballs at the shock base tisk tisk.
Seriously looks great. I especially like the way they did the inner tie rods. Might have to make a change to mine. Did they actually remove the rubber before welding?
After all that and no monoballs at the shock base tisk tisk.
Seriously looks great. I especially like the way they did the inner tie rods. Might have to make a change to mine. Did they actually remove the rubber before welding?
Momo wheel is a good choice I have the same one.
I knew you'd see that! LOL :-) The KW clubsport doesn't come with one (it's not a full race shock that has monoballs like an ohlins TTX) so we're looking for options there. So yes this is the ONE piece of rubber in the entire chassis suspension (well outside engine and trans mounts!).
I like the Mod07 wheel, nice and skinny and perfect size.
On the tie rods, big washer, slide over, tack weld to the outer body, weld to the nut. They didn't remove the rubber. Some will place the end in water to make sure there are no issues with heat. If a weld brakes, rubber still holds the rod. The washer welded just keeps the rod moving in and out. Very similar to pinning. I'll eventually replace these with the ERP (Eisenlohr Racing Products) inner parts that are in the process of being manufactured. I think these are the hot ticket since the Cup part is NLA.
Also, look at the ERP part and you'll see how it has plenty of engagement for toe adjustment. You need to specify the application when ordering these from ERP as the normal 993 length IS longer.
I'll post some additional pictures of this (what I'm calling Phase1a) early next week. Phase 1b has a very long list too. Will post that once we start that process. Sitting down with the shop next week to hash out those details!
Interesting how he mounted the ball joint on the topside of the control arm instead of below. I've seen cars done by Rothsport use the same arrangement. I'll probably try that the next time I have the suspension out of the car. The switch requires you either (a) flip the arms from side-to-side or (b) you remove the pressed bolt and reverse its orientation.
Interesting how he mounted the ball joint on the topside of the control arm instead of below. I've seen cars done by Rothsport use the same arrangement. I'll probably try that the next time I have the suspension out of the car. The switch requires you either (a) flip the arms from side-to-side or (b) you remove the pressed bolt and reverse its orientation.
If you look at my pictures you can see that it was originally mounted below the A-Arm.
I do not know why they are mounted on top. Remember on mine I changed the lower ball joint, the pressed bolts, and the upright to 993 parts. I'm sure it has to do with maintaining proper geometry at a lower ride height.
Yea, mounted to the bottom of the control arm is the stock configuration.
On a lowered 964/993, mounting the ball joint to the top of the control arm will (a) have a correcting effect on the car's roll center compared to an equally lowered car mounted below and (b) place the control arm at a more optimal position on the camber curve (compared to an equally lowered car mounted below) so that it will gain more negative camber (or at least lose less negative camber) on the compression travel of the suspension.
Read up on ball joint extenders. It's effectively doing the same thing.
On the 964/993, the amount of geometry benefit is equivalent to raising the car's ride height by an amount equal to the thickness of the control arm plus the thickness of the portion of the ball joint where it attaches to the control arm.
01-16-2016, 02:51 AM
