Teardown begins. Suspension madness...
#451
Former Vendor
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You can refer to our friendly gateway page for Porsche, identify your caliper by image, then click the caliper picture and it will lead you to the needed rebuild components with specific pistons sizes under description which will eliminate your order from guessing work and order the right parts with confidence.
http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7185.htm
RB caliper rebuild components have helped Porsche owners restoring their old and non-functional calipers to perform better than new/original at a very low cost.
Thank you.
#452
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Out with the g pipe and in with the cargraphic long secondary muffler delete. This one is on my car, but the lobster rocket gets one too when we get there. Still waiting for some parts.
For what it's worth. My car runs and feels better with this pipe vs the gpipe. Runs much closer to the oem exhaust, which in my opinion is the best of the three main options. Gpipe, cup pipe, and oem. So this is so far the best I have felt.
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For what it's worth. My car runs and feels better with this pipe vs the gpipe. Runs much closer to the oem exhaust, which in my opinion is the best of the three main options. Gpipe, cup pipe, and oem. So this is so far the best I have felt.
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#453
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2015
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Can't wait to hear that pipe on the lobster rocket. But today I did a high performance mod of my own.
Replaced the crest-less, blown bulb key heads with the latest version from Porsche. Those finicky little bulbs have been replaced with LEDs. This is an LED upgrade even Goughary can love. And an amazing deal at $23 from the boys at Sunset.
Replaced the crest-less, blown bulb key heads with the latest version from Porsche. Those finicky little bulbs have been replaced with LEDs. This is an LED upgrade even Goughary can love. And an amazing deal at $23 from the boys at Sunset.
#454
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Drive report on the cargraphic pipe. I'm calling it "the q pipe" since we have a g and a j, and no words for the long curly guy...so it's a q
Pronounced "kee-you"...lol
Very drony. Loud in the cabin. Not sure if I'm too happy about it. Drives great. Feels great. But the noise is not fun. More to come. The g was easier on my ears. Could be the combo of the pipe with the wevo mounts...who knows. But I'm going to have to work on some type of sound dampening in the cabin if I keep it.
The sound outside the car...priceless. Sounds awesome. Growls. Deep throat. Love it. But since I'm only going to hear it when I am driving...
Pronounced "kee-you"...lol
Very drony. Loud in the cabin. Not sure if I'm too happy about it. Drives great. Feels great. But the noise is not fun. More to come. The g was easier on my ears. Could be the combo of the pipe with the wevo mounts...who knows. But I'm going to have to work on some type of sound dampening in the cabin if I keep it.
The sound outside the car...priceless. Sounds awesome. Growls. Deep throat. Love it. But since I'm only going to hear it when I am driving...
#455
Burning Brakes
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Curious, did cargraphic marketing to consumer achieve a goal that you wanted? I see a lot of variations on exhaust going on and being removed from p-cars
Is it mostly sound one is seeking? Kind of like motor mounts, I am deciding on RS or 993 turbo and want to avoid the too stiff or too much vibration in cockpit gottcha? Of course, if your reviewing product or get as a freebie, another story
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Last edited by C4inLA; 01-26-2016 at 07:42 PM.
#456
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Go with wevo black motor mounts. They make a huge difference and don't add a lot of noise.
This pipe if you don't like noise, is not the way to go.
Changing an exhaust component , without making real changes elsewhere, will not add hp or torque in any real way. You'd be better off staying oem and going on a diet losing 10 pounds of unwanted leftover Christmas fat...
So for me the exhaust thing is as useless as bling. But I like to hear the car. Not sure about this drone though. But the car runs really well with this exhaust. Like I said. Runs the closest to oem that I have seen so far...
This pipe if you don't like noise, is not the way to go.
Changing an exhaust component , without making real changes elsewhere, will not add hp or torque in any real way. You'd be better off staying oem and going on a diet losing 10 pounds of unwanted leftover Christmas fat...
So for me the exhaust thing is as useless as bling. But I like to hear the car. Not sure about this drone though. But the car runs really well with this exhaust. Like I said. Runs the closest to oem that I have seen so far...
#457
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Today was a mild day. Not a ton done. But...in went the right rear trailing arm, spring plate, axle, and some of the nibbets.
Not much to report. We lost the bolt piece that holds the ebrake cable to the arm inside the ebrake assembly. Must not have come back from the plater. So I called sunset and they are expediting the 72 cent parts to me for 1.42. This is the cheapest problem we've had all year, a few dollars and a few days. Not bad.
I torqued the six m8 axle bolts to the required 42nm (31 ft/lb), but left everything else snug for the moment. You never know when you have to reverse and take it out again. Hopefully not, but better to get everything in place and then methodically go through and torque it all up once all the unknown knows are known...
One quick note. We bought rennline stainless tie down hooks to add to the rear and painted them red. The front of the car has tie down hooks built in and those got painted red as well. This isn't a track car, and so won't likely ever see a trailer in that regard. But, if you've ever seen why's happens when you call AAA....you don't want that guy throwing a strap over your trailing arm...simple enough to give him a bright red hook to find under there...
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Not much to report. We lost the bolt piece that holds the ebrake cable to the arm inside the ebrake assembly. Must not have come back from the plater. So I called sunset and they are expediting the 72 cent parts to me for 1.42. This is the cheapest problem we've had all year, a few dollars and a few days. Not bad.
I torqued the six m8 axle bolts to the required 42nm (31 ft/lb), but left everything else snug for the moment. You never know when you have to reverse and take it out again. Hopefully not, but better to get everything in place and then methodically go through and torque it all up once all the unknown knows are known...
One quick note. We bought rennline stainless tie down hooks to add to the rear and painted them red. The front of the car has tie down hooks built in and those got painted red as well. This isn't a track car, and so won't likely ever see a trailer in that regard. But, if you've ever seen why's happens when you call AAA....you don't want that guy throwing a strap over your trailing arm...simple enough to give him a bright red hook to find under there...
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#459
Racer
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Do you have any suggestions for front sway bar drop links for a C4 other than the stock versions.
Seems there are aftermarket drop links for C2 but not C4....
I know there's the drive shafts to get around, but come on, it's just metal.
Seems there are aftermarket drop links for C2 but not C4....
I know there's the drive shafts to get around, but come on, it's just metal.
#461
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DobermanDad
What lug nuts and studs did you use? I want to replace mind eventually. Was looking at MSI.
#462
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by C4inLA
I have a note into Wevo to ensure the SS C2 version fit the TL. Their webpage says C2/C4 but does not ref TL....
#463
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by klokwerk
Do you have any suggestions for front sway bar drop links for a C4 other than the stock versions.
Seems there are aftermarket drop links for C2 but not C4....
I know there's the drive shafts to get around, but come on, it's just metal.
Seems there are aftermarket drop links for C2 but not C4....
I know there's the drive shafts to get around, but come on, it's just metal.