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Old 02-14-2016, 09:23 PM
  #976  
Goughary
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Anything special about getting the air out of a new set of calipers. I installed a new rebuilt set of calipers today and bled them all twice. Once, then turned on the car and pressurizes the system (c4). Then pumped the pedal to move the pads into place and make sure all was reasonably well, and then shut it down and re-bled all four again. Went out to bed the pads in and the pedal is just very soft and squishy like there is a ton of air in the system.

I'm sure through more bleeding the air will naturally work its way out. But are there any tricks to getting a new set of calipers bled out better prior to first use?
Old 02-16-2016, 02:06 PM
  #977  
dhc905
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Easy question after some not so easy ones:

The two plastic bits that hold in the spoiler switch and the 3 button switches on my center console "pop up". How/Were they secured to the center console? When I swapped for a leather center console this started happening. I tried some weak double sided tape, but that hasn't helped. Is there any non-permanent, sticky tape or something I could use to hold it in? Did it originally "just fit in"?
Old 02-16-2016, 02:19 PM
  #978  
RallyeChris
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Originally Posted by dhc905
Easy question after some not so easy ones:

The two plastic bits that hold in the spoiler switch and the 3 button switches on my center console "pop up". How/Were they secured to the center console? When I swapped for a leather center console this started happening. I tried some weak double sided tape, but that hasn't helped. Is there any non-permanent, sticky tape or something I could use to hold it in? Did it originally "just fit in"?
There are "V" shaped clips, 2 per switch I believe. Can get through pelican and the like.


Old 02-16-2016, 02:40 PM
  #979  
Rocket Rob
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Originally Posted by Goughary
Anything special about getting the air out of a new set of calipers. I installed a new rebuilt set of calipers today and bled them all twice. Once, then turned on the car and pressurizes the system (c4). Then pumped the pedal to move the pads into place and make sure all was reasonably well, and then shut it down and re-bled all four again. Went out to bed the pads in and the pedal is just very soft and squishy like there is a ton of air in the system.

I'm sure through more bleeding the air will naturally work its way out. But are there any tricks to getting a new set of calipers bled out better prior to first use?
I've found that smacking on the caliper with a shot mallet while bleeding, seems to help dislodge the air bubbles.
Old 02-16-2016, 03:01 PM
  #980  
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Originally Posted by RallyeChris
There are "V" shaped clips, 2 per switch I believe. Can get through pelican and the like.


Which are often broken - at least one of them. In your case both sides in both plastic panels. Fleabay will find you replacements.
Old 02-16-2016, 03:15 PM
  #981  
RallyeChris
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Originally Posted by LM964
Which are often broken - at least one of them. In your case both sides in both plastic panels. Fleabay will find you replacements.
Yes. The plastic "receiver" on the switch housing is usually broken. The metal clips are quite robust. I had to source both switch housings via fleabay as mine were broken. Nice "un-broken" switch housings aren't cheap when you find them, either. Broken examples are cheap and plentiful!
Old 02-16-2016, 03:17 PM
  #982  
LM964
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Originally Posted by RallyeChris
Yes. The plastic "receiver" on the switch housing is usually broken. The metal clips are quite robust. I had to source both switch housings via fleabay as mine were broken. Nice "un-broken" switch housings aren't cheap when you find them, either. Broken examples are cheap and plentiful!
There's an opportunity for someone to come up with an equally good fix.
Old 02-16-2016, 04:59 PM
  #983  
LouZ
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Originally Posted by LM964
There's an opportunity for someone to come up with an equally good fix.
Ironically, I just "fixed" mine over the holidays! I found the broken and quite brittle plastic pieces in the console housing, then 'welded" (soldering iron melting) together. Added the clip, and epoxied the clip for added strength. Finally, I gingerly reinserted it back in the housing. We'll see how long it lasts!!!
Old 02-16-2016, 05:42 PM
  #984  
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I can check when I get home, but is there a part number for these little clips? Might be good to memorialize here...
Old 02-16-2016, 11:50 PM
  #985  
Super90
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Originally Posted by RallyeChris
There are "V" shaped clips, 2 per switch I believe. Can get through pelican and the like.


The metal clips are not what broke on my car, it was the plastic that they attach to. My solution to a repair is here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ng-repair.html
Old 02-17-2016, 01:53 AM
  #986  
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Look familiar? Ha, both were broken and I was only able to fish one out (other is MIA). I decided to go with an industrial Velcro solution that has held for the last 15 minutes. We'll see...

Old 02-17-2016, 02:50 AM
  #987  
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Ok here's one.... changing an interior bulb somehow blew the 7.5a fuse. No problem. Change it, while in there, I see this odd looking fuse in #15, I pull it, it drops down by the fuel tank. Of course, curiosity got me and the damn thing will never be seen again. #15 has no description on the diagram, just a "40" as in 40 amp fuse. I do a little searching, check the wiring diagrams, that fuse seems to be the hydraulic pump for the C4.

So my car is a 1991 C2, is #15 40a fuse used for anything?

Oh and while in there I go through each fuse and see: wrong fuses in certain spots (luckily only a 5a difference on all of them, and a couple fuses in spots that are noted as "empty" on the fuse box diagram and the service manual diagrams... fixed that up.
Old 02-17-2016, 04:14 AM
  #988  
LM964
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Originally Posted by Spyerx
Ok here's one.... changing an interior bulb somehow blew the 7.5a fuse. No problem. Change it, while in there, I see this odd looking fuse in #15, I pull it, it drops down by the fuel tank. Of course, curiosity got me and the damn thing will never be seen again. #15 has no description on the diagram, just a "40" as in 40 amp fuse. I do a little searching, check the wiring diagrams, that fuse seems to be the hydraulic pump for the C4.

So my car is a 1991 C2, is #15 40a fuse used for anything?
Indeed, #15 for the C4 only. The Hydraulic booster pump (explains why the C4 brakes have brillaint feel and stopping power).

Fuses are something often forgotten about. I did a sanity check a while back of every fuse and tested each. Found two dead ones I never knew I had - and then the door central locking worked!
Old 02-17-2016, 10:18 PM
  #989  
Mr.Alex
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Weather has been looking better and gave me a chance to look around some of those vacuum lines. I didn't have a chance to smoke but using a small hand pump I did not head any obvious leaks, but overall all the hoses look to be in great condition. These are the ones I checked tonight, which others am I missing?

Also tried running on either coil and the same issue; revs jump at start up, settle at 1k, then jump from 850-1200
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Old 02-17-2016, 10:32 PM
  #990  
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Originally Posted by LM964
Indeed, #15 for the C4 only. The Hydraulic booster pump (explains why the C4 brakes have brillaint feel and stopping power).

Fuses are something often forgotten about. I did a sanity check a while back of every fuse and tested each. Found two dead ones I never knew I had - and then the door central locking worked!
Weird, any thoughts on why the factory would have put a 40a fuse in there?

Anyone else know if this is tied to any funky things, other systems? Looking at wiring diagram it seems only the pump!?


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