The silly little question thread ...
#331
IHI KING!
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Rob you were right on the money... I did the pads today, the Pistons are fine. The slide pads are not allowing the pads to move freely. I got them working well enough, but will have to take the calipers out, take the rusty cap nuts out that hold the slide pads and clean everything up to really get things free.
Two questions:
First , what is the torque spec on the 19 mm caliper bolts to the upright? And
second, part number on the slide pad cap nut? Or where to buy them? I suppose it's something maybe I should just go to McMaster Carr for, but the head looks wide so was thinking maybe to stay oem
Two questions:
First , what is the torque spec on the 19 mm caliper bolts to the upright? And
second, part number on the slide pad cap nut? Or where to buy them? I suppose it's something maybe I should just go to McMaster Carr for, but the head looks wide so was thinking maybe to stay oem
Front = 964-351-959-00
Rear (C4 - 4 piston)) = 993-352-959-00
Rear (C2 early - 2 piston) = ?? <not listed in PET>
#332
Race Car
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Thanks Rob - I appreciate it - I'd like to just buy the Cap head screws though - since the plates are stainless - they should be easily re-usable - but the screws look to me like I'll chew them up getting them out - so before doing that, I need to source the correct cap head bolts for all four calipers.
i read on the 928 forum where guys needed alot of heat to loosen the loctite 270 (high strength) in order to get those bolts to budge.
but if I have to spend hundreds to get the plates, just to get the capheads, then I'd be better off sending the calipers out for full rebuild and paint...
i read on the 928 forum where guys needed alot of heat to loosen the loctite 270 (high strength) in order to get those bolts to budge.
but if I have to spend hundreds to get the plates, just to get the capheads, then I'd be better off sending the calipers out for full rebuild and paint...
#334
Race Car
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didnt sunset open an online ecommerce site? not that I don't want to call and talk to bob - but sometimes its just easier to shop from my phone with no one listening...
#335
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#336
IHI KING!
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#337
Race Car
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so I called Sunset - they cant sell the Cap nuts for the caliper spring plates separately - 37 is a good price - but there are two per caliper and so thats 37 times 8....which when the spring plates are perfectly fine, it's silly to spend the money. so on to McMaster Carr for stainless cap nuts.
Question is - does anyone know the exact size of that metric cap nut? looks like an M8? and then length? its not listed in PET. Maybe I need to call Brembo....
Question is - does anyone know the exact size of that metric cap nut? looks like an M8? and then length? its not listed in PET. Maybe I need to call Brembo....
#338
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How did you check on the pistons Goughary? Just press pedal and watch movement?
Side note; going to swap the steering rack bushings tomorrow; the work manual is somewhat confusing. Is the clamp that holds them considered the "Steering Gear to Crossmember" mount, which is 33ft lbs of torque. Or is it 17ft lbs?
Side note; going to swap the steering rack bushings tomorrow; the work manual is somewhat confusing. Is the clamp that holds them considered the "Steering Gear to Crossmember" mount, which is 33ft lbs of torque. Or is it 17ft lbs?
#339
Race Car
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How did you check on the pistons Goughary? Just press pedal and watch movement? Side note; going to swap the steering rack bushings tomorrow; the work manual is somewhat confusing. Is the clamp that holds them considered the "Steering Gear to Crossmember" mount, which is 33ft lbs of torque. Or is it 17ft lbs?
#340
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How did you check on the pistons Goughary? Just press pedal and watch movement?
Side note; going to swap the steering rack bushings tomorrow; the work manual is somewhat confusing. Is the clamp that holds them considered the "Steering Gear to Crossmember" mount, which is 33ft lbs of torque. Or is it 17ft lbs?
Side note; going to swap the steering rack bushings tomorrow; the work manual is somewhat confusing. Is the clamp that holds them considered the "Steering Gear to Crossmember" mount, which is 33ft lbs of torque. Or is it 17ft lbs?
#342
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Was a bit premature to ask. The very last allen bolt decided to not want to come out, got all the others loose. Will probably need to drill it out as its starting to spin.
However my main problem at the moment is getting the OEM shift components back in after I decided not to drill the shift tunnel on my own. Any tips on getting the ball cup back on the shifter rod? Couldn't quite get on it with a C-clamp, and when I tried to use a jack per some other thread on the forum, it just started to lift up the front of the car off the jackstands.
However my main problem at the moment is getting the OEM shift components back in after I decided not to drill the shift tunnel on my own. Any tips on getting the ball cup back on the shifter rod? Couldn't quite get on it with a C-clamp, and when I tried to use a jack per some other thread on the forum, it just started to lift up the front of the car off the jackstands.
#343
IHI KING!
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To "press" the shifter ball joints together, I found the best way was to use some long reach channel lock pliers (similar to the photo below). I would place the cup over the ball and then use the pliers to squeeze it together. It was easy once I found this method.
![](https://www.channellock.com/data/default/images/catalog/original/460-341.png)