Captain Ahab Jr.

I can't lock my car, not got time to fix it but want to use this weekend so which relay is the best one to pull to stop someone from starting if sone were to jump in it?

dsan

dme relay kills the fuel pump

Mr.Alex

Got around to doing the oil cooler today, about 20% of the old cooler was not clogged to hell. Also changed the resistor, which looked to be original, with one made in Ireland. I'm making my car less German.

Question: the fan that attaches to the cooler had some foam on the outer perimeter where it mounts to the cooler, but while cleaning it a lot of it flaked away. Should I leave as is, or just get some weatherstripping at home depot and put it on?

Q2: For the air deflector which screws into the side of the cooler, the bolts are too small for the new one . On the old ones there were 5.5mm, would anyone know what size I should look up so I don't have to make more than one trip to home depot.

Earlydays

[QUOTE=Mr.Alex;12390752]...........Question: the fan that attaches to the cooler had some foam on the outer perimeter where it mounts to the cooler, but while cleaning it a lot of it flaked away. Should I leave as is, or just get some weatherstripping at home depot and put it on?......QUOTE]

Get some weather striping from Home Depot.

Goughary

I tried to take off my rear calipers today to fix my ebrake and replace the springs and shoes.

I was able to crack loose the upper hex bolt on the left rear, but then using a long 10mm Allen socket on the rear hex bolt, there was no way it was going to crack loose without rounding the head, or breaking a tool.

Suggestions? Is there a 1/2 drive better quality long Allen socket that's better to use? Mine was twisting a bit and that metal is so hard and brittle I was worried it would snap with the force I was giving it.

Any tricks to get these bolts cracked loose would be great. The torque spec is 63 ft/lbs, so it can't be that tough. But I am worried about breaking the head, or stripping it, etc...

Captain Ahab Jr.

Thanks

Rocket Rob

I use a set of 3/8 drive 6" long allen sockets. The trick I've used to loosen a stubborn caliper bolt is to slide the allen in through the trailing arm and just before it enters the bolt head, I also stick in my longest 10mm box wrench. I then use the box wrench to help augment my allen.

By the way, be sure that your bolt heads are very clean (no debris) and I also use a 3 lb hammer to "tap" the allen wrench in to be sure its fully seated. I too was worried about stripping.

I hope this helps.

Goughary

By the way, be sure that your bolt heads are very clean (no debris) and I also use a 3 lb hammer to "tap" the allen wrench in to be sure its fully seated. I too was worried about stripping.

Thanks Rob. I tapped my 3/8 drive Allen into the bolt for exactly that reason. Scary how much weight I was putting on the bolt with no movement at all except the twist in my 10mm Allen socket.

That suggestion of slipping the box end in there is a good one. I read Ricardo's thread on the rear caliper removal last night. Vandit posted a link to a 1/2 drive Facom long Allen socket from ultimate garage that I will pick up. I'm sure it's better quality than my current, which will help.

I won't be able to get back in there for a couple weeks. In the meantime, I need a DIY on the ebrake shoes and the associated springs. So you know of one?

Harry Apps

Workshop Manual 46-13 has all you need.

Goughary

Awesome thanks. Funny that I am here so much I forget to go to the source...lol...

dsan

No problem at all





Has anyone tried using a "back to black" style product with lasting success? My rubber seal between the front bumper and hood is in great condition except the color is starting to fade. Hate to sound like a cheap-$%@ but if I can buy some $20 product that will look good and last, I'd rather do that then $120 for a new seal.

jimq

besides the bottom bolt on the rear shock that has to be the scariest to break loose.When it does it lets loose it does with a bang!

Goughary

I have used back to black. It works ok. Try using bug and tar remover on that front seal first. It'll get all the previous gunk off it. And then the back to black....

There are prob guys on here that are better and more knowledgable detailers than me though...but last time i used tar remover, it made my black seals much darker...which was good. Just remember if you touch the paint, the wax where you touch will be gone....

breljohn

Trying to keep it simple to avoid further issues...
How easy is it to remove the central locking system?

Thanks

Goughary

What exactly are you trying to do? The c4 diff locks? Or the central door locks?