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Would it be ok to use a 3/8 drive 22mm O2 socket to remove the nut on my HD's and then use it to reattach and hand tighten, and afterwards set to spec with my 1/2 drive torque wrench?
Meaning that hand tightening with the 3/8 drive will be enough to that the shock won't spin in place when I use just a regular socket on the 1/2 drive torque wrench.
Would it be ok to use a 3/8 drive 22mm O2 socket to remove the nut on my HD's and then use it to reattach and hand tighten, and afterwards set to spec with my 1/2 drive torque wrench? Meaning that hand tightening with the 3/8 drive will be enough to that the shock won't spin in place when I use just a regular socket on the 1/2 drive torque wrench.
I had to refurbish two shocks because someone used vice grips to hold the shock bodies. When it came time to refit I had a shop do the spring change. I just fitted the assembly. Easy.
Would it be ok to use a 3/8 drive 22mm O2 socket to remove the nut on my HD's and then use it to reattach and hand tighten, and afterwards set to spec with my 1/2 drive torque wrench?
Meaning that hand tightening with the 3/8 drive will be enough to that the shock won't spin in place when I use just a regular socket on the 1/2 drive torque wrench.
Yes that should work fine. The size of the socket drive doesn't matter as long as you use the correct torque at the end.
Last edited by Rocket Rob; 02-24-2015 at 09:47 PM.
here's a silly little answer to the question ..
"How many countries are shown as point of origin on chips inside the 964 Motronic Ecu (for those PCA pub nights )
.... 4: Phillipines, Ireland, Portugal, Taiwan
(Intel, Phillips & Bosch also there but not with country name)
.. and yes Motronic is removed, checked, stock chip etc.. and only opened now for first time
for sale with OEM plugs for loom (ie removed from loom remaining in car) ... please pm for pics etc..
While swapping out my front wheels (with the AP design/Design 500 wheels which rub like crazy) I noticed that the struts has threads on them. Does this mean they are height adjustable? 92 C2 by the way.
Yes, your struts are height adjustable. All 964s have them. Note that you cannot lower the car much with them, they are mainly useful for fine tuning. Any major changes in ride height should be done by lowering springs.
Yes that should work fine. The size of the socket drive doesn't matter as long as you use the correct torque at the end.
I actually found a half open half drive socket on ebay so that will take care of things.
I don't suppose there is an awesome 2015 solution to dropping rear control arm without jacking the engine (on new-ish mounts) or taking the heat exchangers off?
I don't suppose there is an awesome 2015 solution to dropping rear control arm without jacking the engine (on new-ish mounts) or taking the heat exchangers off?
Why do you need to remove the rear control arm? Not sure why you would need need to remove the heat exchangers off.
I actually found a half open half drive socket on ebay so that will take care of things.
I don't suppose there is an awesome 2015 solution to dropping rear control arm without jacking the engine (on new-ish mounts) or taking the heat exchangers off?
You can remove the rear trailing arm without needing to remove anything more than the tire. There are three mounting points all are accessible however if they have not been removed getting the outer bolt loose could be a bit of work.
Why do you need to remove the rear control arm? Not sure why you would need need to remove the heat exchangers off.
Originally Posted by cobalt
You can remove the rear trailing arm without needing to remove anything more than the tire. There are three mounting points all are accessible however if they have not been removed getting the outer bolt loose could be a bit of work.
Perhaps I messed up the name after reading a bunch of threads. I'm swapping the springs on my HD's and in order to remove the rear shocks the DIY's I've seen say the rear 'control arm' needs to be dropped to give enough leverage to get the shock out. The problem seems to lie in the bolt that adjusts the toe gets bumped against the heat exchangers.
Or is this only a problem for the OEM shocks? I doubt I have aftermarket end links on the rear to make this easier.
Perhaps I messed up the name after reading a bunch of threads. I'm swapping the springs on my HD's and in order to remove the rear shocks the DIY's I've seen say the rear 'control arm' needs to be dropped to give enough leverage to get the shock out. The problem seems to lie in the bolt that adjusts the toe gets bumped against the heat exchangers.
Or is this only a problem for the OEM shocks? I doubt I have aftermarket end links on the rear to make this easier.
Mr.Alex - No need to remove the control arm to change the shocks/springs. You will want to raise the rear up to give more room to work. The shocks are attached to the lower control arm by a single bolt. That bolt tends to be stubborn to remove. The best way I found is a long cheater pipe on a breaker bar. The higher the car, the easier it is. I did it all with mine on jack stands. A lift is not required. The top bolts are standard 8mm (13mm nuts). They are a bit challenging to reach when the engine is installed but it can be done if you remove the rear heater blower and air filter box.
Last edited by Rocket Rob; 03-03-2015 at 04:48 PM.
So I have the dreaded "Xmas Tree" effect but only with the headlights on. I did a lot of searching reading about this problem and one of the recommended tests is to mist water around the dizzys and coils and look for sparking in the dark. Am I not supposed to see any sparks at all?
Mr.Alex - No need to remove the control arm to change the shocks/springs. You will want to raise the rear up to give more room to work. The shocks are attached to the lower control arm by a single bolt. That bolt tends to be stubborn to remove. The best way I found is a long cheater pipe on a breaker bar. The higher the car, the easier it is. I did it all with mine on jack stands. A lift is not required. The top bolts are standard 8mm (13mm nuts). They are a bit challenging to reach when the engine is installed but it can be done if you remove the rear heater blower and air filter box.
^+964...no need to remove the control arm to change shocks/springs. I used a high torque impact wrench to remove the stubborn bolt on one side. The other side required a lot of persuasion with the pipe/cheater bar/jack combo. I also used a liberal amount of thread penetrant. Good luck.
Wow this is great to hear, a bunch of past threads on here had opposite opinions. And I was just trying to follow DIY; steps 4-6 mention what I was referring too. http://p-car.com/diy/sus/rear/rearsus.htm
Alex. Hit them with pb blaster first and reapply a few times. Let that stuff seep in for a few days if you are concerned that the bolts have been on too long...it'll make them more likely to crack loose.
02-24-2015, 06:38 PM
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