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Like the other posters said one plug goes to side marker light row cars have that US cars don’t the other heated washer nozzle and the other frunk light switch before that got moved to the latch
Well, you’re onto something @cobalt. A quick correction - The switch IS an on/off toggle. Not the spring loaded type. Also, whereas my ABS light used to come on immediately on startup and not go out, now, with the switch pressed to the “on” position, the light and warning doesn’t come on until the car starts moving.
Here’s what I found on inspection:
So, the switch is connected into that pin of the R34 relay you can see the solid blue to brown wire running to. I barely understand electricity itself, let alone automotive applications, so I am absolutely not figuring out what this means on my own.
The striped blue wire from the switch (a ground??) seems to follow down into that much larger morass of wires. But no idea where that goes. I guess maybe that originally ran to the pin in the relay where the solid blue / brown switch wire is now??
Assuming that is an ABS switch, how does this play into the warning light issue? Bonus points: What do those connectors near the hood strut go to, and why are they unplugged??
EDIT: Logic suggests that wire coming from the big bundle of wires probably comes from the ABS controller and is what *should* be plugged into that switch pin in the R34 relay. Yes?? Would that just override whatever the switch does?
Was a busy weekend.
So from what I gather someone spliced the ground wire and installed a toggle switch to defeat the ABS system. This isn't the normal way to do it but I suppose they had their reasoning. I can only assume that one way the switch kills the ABS system the other activates it but from what I am getting from your explanation is the ABS system is throwing a fault code when it isn't deactivated. I would say it is OK to leave the switch but note which is on vs off and you will need to spend some time diagnosing why the ABS system is not functioning when the bypass is not being used.
Please let us know what you find out. Also you can check the switch by using a multimeter and check for continuity. The ABS system fault showing after driving is another story.
So from what I gather someone spliced the ground wire and installed a toggle switch to defeat the ABS system. This isn't the normal way to do it but I suppose they had their reasoning. I can only assume that one way the switch kills the ABS system the other activates it but from what I am getting from your explanation is the ABS system is throwing a fault code when it isn't deactivated. I would say it is OK to leave the switch but note which is on vs off and you will need to spend some time diagnosing why the ABS system is not functioning when the bypass is not being used.
Please let us know what you find out. Also you can check the switch by using a multimeter and check for continuity. The ABS system fault showing after driving is another story.
Yeah. There's obviously an ABS issue independent of the switch, which is probably why the light would go off momentarily when the switch was activated on idle, but then come back on while driving.
So, I wound up just removing the switch, and reconnecting the original ABS wire to that relay. Rather not add the potential of the switch itself causing issues into the ABS troubleshooting scheme. I'm guessing now that the ABS warning only activates at speed, I may still have a wheel speed sensor issue, despite replacing the front left sensor. Will keep tracking this down and update.
Any clever guesses on that other random strand of wires and connectors I found ?
I vote to turn that switch into a "dark mode" switch, all lights off, even brake lights. aka - Escape Mode
Lol. May add a smoke screen function as well.
While we’re on electrical connector mysteries, I have another. Prepping to install KWV3 and found this while removing rear struts. Just hanging out. Not connected to anything, and there doesn’t look to be anything to connect to . . . Anyone know ?
Contact cement. The metal plate behind it is the heating element. These normally have an adhesive tape on the backside when new. I found the adhesive doesn't last on replacements. Clean both sides carefully before reattaching to get a good bond otherwise it will fall off again when driving. GL
04-23-2023, 10:11 PM
