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How am I supposed to reattach the shark fins, specifically the passenger (starboard/right) side one? There are those two little super fragile and wimpy sets of plastic tabs that hook onto the nylon clip-bolt thingies that screw into the sheetmetal. Do I attach those nylon clip-bolt thingies to the shark fin, and then screw on the nut on the backside of the sheet metal? Or do I attach the nylon clip-bolt doohickey to the sheet metal, and then slip the super-fragile plastic tabs on the shark fin into them?
For the life of me, I cannot get the clip in the middle of the right side shark fin to attach. The oil lines/thermostat/drain plug and the curvature of the shark fin under the car conspire to make it impossible for my fat fingers to get in there to attach that middle plastic clip. Whether it's sliding the plastic tabs into the nylon clip (which has already been attached to the sheet metal) , or attaching the locking nut to the stem of the clip (which has been slid into the plastic shark fin tabs).
The method many use is to attach the clip with stud to the rocker panel (either with the original bits or plastic epoxy) and then bolt the fin up from there.
The method many use is to attach the clip with stud to the rocker panel (either with the original bits or plastic epoxy) and then bolt the fin up from there.
Yeah, there is one of those attachments in the right shark fin that is simply inaccessible from the backside. That's my problem. Impossible to apply the bolt to the stud.
How am I supposed to reattach the shark fins, specifically the passenger (starboard/right) side one? There are those two little super fragile and wimpy sets of plastic tabs that hook onto the nylon clip-bolt thingies that screw into the sheetmetal. Do I attach those nylon clip-bolt thingies to the shark fin, and then screw on the nut on the backside of the sheet metal? Or do I attach the nylon clip-bolt doohickey to the sheet metal, and then slip the super-fragile plastic tabs on the shark fin into them?
For the life of me, I cannot get the clip in the middle of the right side shark fin to attach. The oil lines/thermostat/drain plug and the curvature of the shark fin under the car conspire to make it impossible for my fat fingers to get in there to attach that middle plastic clip. Whether it's sliding the plastic tabs into the nylon clip (which has already been attached to the sheet metal) , or attaching the locking nut to the stem of the clip (which has been slid into the plastic shark fin tabs).
I have glued (epoxy) the nylon clips to my shark fin. I then use a ratcheting box wrench to attach the plastic nut to the back side. I do the top and bottom first and the center one last.
I also used plastic epoxy to attach the clip to the Sharkfin and a ratcheting 10mm. It's easiest to have the rear wheel off when attaching the nut to the stud.
I have another silly question......I have a rennline Accelerator pedal that i'd like to install. However one of the studs that fasten the oem pedal to the floor was rusted up and broke off. The other stud's nut is seized as well and likely to break off if I attempt. While I don't have access to a CD (capacitor discharge) stud welding tool. Does anyone know if it's ok to just drill and tap a hole as an alternative method? I had the car on my quick jack but i'm unable to see an area to drill from the bottom of the car underneath the pedal.
I have another silly question......I have a rennline Accelerator pedal that i'd like to install. However one of the studs that fasten the oem pedal to the floor was rusted up and broke off. The other stud's nut is seized as well and likely to break off if I attempt. While I don't have access to a CD (capacitor discharge) stud welding tool. Does anyone know if it's ok to just drill and tap a hole as an alternative method? I had the car on my quick jack but i'm unable to see an area to drill from the bottom of the car underneath the pedal.
Ryan, make sure you slather some underbelly coating after you do that under the car...
Another way to do this btw, is drill the holes from
Up above, and then from underneath, you can slip m6 hex bolts up from the bottom, tack weld the heads to the floor pan, and then you don't need the stud welder.
Ryan, make sure you slather some underbelly coating after you do that under the car...
Another way to do this btw, is drill the holes from
Up above, and then from underneath, you can slip m6 hex bolts up from the bottom, tack weld the heads to the floor pan, and then you don't need the stud welder.
I'm actually doing it from above. I'll drill out the existing studs and replace them with the NutSerts as advised. Then I'll just bolt them down that way since they're threaded
so my oil level gauge only seems to work properly when the car is stationary - it shows as in the middle, otherwise its down at the bottom when moving is that normal? All my other gauges work fine
so my oil level gauge only seems to work properly when the car is stationary - it shows as in the middle, otherwise its down at the bottom when moving is that normal? All my other gauges work fine
so my oil level gauge only seems to work properly when the car is stationary - it shows as in the middle, otherwise its down at the bottom when moving is that normal? All my other gauges work fine
Yes, normal. You should measure oil level with the engine running and the engine at normal temp, i.e. with oil thermostat open, and the car on a level surface.
I'm going to be away for a few weeks in August and I think I'll need to plug my car in while I'm gone. I've got an old Charge-O-Mat that the dealer gave me when I bought my 997 years ago. In my 964, I've replaced the lighter socket with a USB port, so I'll have to attach the charger directly to the battery. Will the adapter shown below work without issue? Any risks there?
05-30-2022, 04:11 PM
