The silly little question thread ...
#1816
Three Wheelin'
The rear engine tray and the 3 other trays are designed to reduce drag and lift. 911's did quite well without them prior to the 964 and the factory omitted the engine tray from the turbos. The three middle trays are good for something like a 30% reduction of lift at speed. The rear engine tray is good for another 2% or so. IMO the pros don't outweigh the cons of keeping it. They trap heat and add weight amongst other things. Good for a C4 in the winter but the rest of the time I would remove it. I have driven cars with and without them. The new 964 I just purchased is missing them and you can actually feel the car is less stable at speed. Do what you want with the rear engine tray which does add a lot of weight and heat but the rest I would keep. If you decide to remove them I am looking to purchase some.
Once removed I guess the heat walls between exhaust and engine should be removed too as they will act as aero brakes, The other issue is all the heat shield around the rear bumper and under the rear reflector that push back heat towards the engine.
where all the heat (hot air lifting) could escape?
Maybe design one that close the gap between the engine and rear bumper to avoid the parachute effect from the rear bumper.
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HiWind (03-10-2021)
#1817
I think the rear tray is not very well designed,
Once removed I guess the heat walls between exhaust and engine should be removed too as they will act as aero brakes, The other issue is all the heat shield around the rear bumper and under the rear reflector that push back heat towards the engine.
where all the heat (hot air lifting) could escape?
Maybe design one that close the gap between the engine and rear bumper to avoid the parachute effect from the rear bumper.
Once removed I guess the heat walls between exhaust and engine should be removed too as they will act as aero brakes, The other issue is all the heat shield around the rear bumper and under the rear reflector that push back heat towards the engine.
where all the heat (hot air lifting) could escape?
Maybe design one that close the gap between the engine and rear bumper to avoid the parachute effect from the rear bumper.
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kos11-12 (03-08-2021)
#1818
Racer
Question for ya....When bypassing the DME fuel pump relay by jumping 3 & 7 shouldn't the fuel pump buzz not thump?
Mine thumps or thuds and that's it. No buzz. That's not right, right?
Mine thumps or thuds and that's it. No buzz. That's not right, right?
#1819
Three Wheelin'
Hello,
I am reviewing my front boot fuse/relay board,
as I have some electrical issue,
Can someone light me on the use of the relay number 12, (also called bridge) its the short one, like 1/2 tall.
Thanks
konstantin
I am reviewing my front boot fuse/relay board,
as I have some electrical issue,
Can someone light me on the use of the relay number 12, (also called bridge) its the short one, like 1/2 tall.
Thanks
konstantin
#1821
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bucks, Herts, Beds Tri-Border, UK
Posts: 1,163
Received 90 Likes
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74 Posts
I'm 100% not an auto electrician, but looking at the relay circuit diag printed on the relay my interpretation is it simply 'bridges' one or more contact points to another one or more contact point. No internal moving components or state changes per se, just a bridge connection. I guess maybe going though the whole electrical circuit diagrams for the relay/fuse box may reveal what circuits it is bridging and if it were removed what other relay would it affect. Would be interesting to know what both R12 and R14 supply.
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kos11-12 (03-14-2021)
#1822
Race Car
Thread Starter
I think the side pieces important for protecting the ignition wires from direct heat off the exhaust especially re-designed (heat exchangers removed) shorter headers etc..
#1823
Burning Brakes
Success on removal of 55 pin ABS controller Connector
I am trying to remove the multi-pin connector that goes to the ABS controller in the frunk (passenger side) without much luck. I removed the phillips head screw at the back end of the connector, and operated the lever which raised the front part of the connector but I cannot free up the back side of the connector. I don't want to pull too hard for fear of breaking something. There is a plastic clip at the back that looks like it will release the connector if you angle it up, but I get too much resistance when I try to angle it up. I have studied the clip to see if you need to press something to release it and have poked at it gently but again I am afraid of breaking old plastic.
What's the secret?
What's the secret?
Connector successfully removed.
After exerting as much force as I dared to (without success) I decided to tackle the problem in a different way. I unbolted the controller. It is held on by two nuts, one of which had easy access, the other one was a pain but with a pair of long nose pliers I was able to undo it.
Once I had the controller unbolted and moved it away from its location, the connector practically fell off. I still don't know exactly why this method worked. My current theory is that the wiring harness which is heavy, bulky and stiff is what was the cause of the resistance. I guess I should have removed more of the cable clips. I removed two of the clips but perhaps removing the third clip would have done the trick.
Anyway I thought I would post my info in case anyone else has a similar problem. The cable clips can be pried off and can probably be reused but new ones are available for $1 each. Part number is 999 513 049 40.
The good news is that the connector and pins all look good. No corrosion and the innards of the controller look clean and dry. Now I need to figure out why it keeps blowing fuses.
#1824
Rennlist Member
Im in the process of deleting my HVAC suitcase. Ive got all the prep work finished and the suitcase is just hanging on by a thread. Well, its a thick harness to be more precise.
The suitcase is not going back in the car, ever. So the silly question is, can I just cut the harness and lose the dead weight? Or are there some critical functions Im not aware.
Thanks in advance, what and adventure.
Suitcase is almost out
But this harness is holding on. Can I simply cut the harness, and delete it?
The suitcase is not going back in the car, ever. So the silly question is, can I just cut the harness and lose the dead weight? Or are there some critical functions Im not aware.
Thanks in advance, what and adventure.
Suitcase is almost out
But this harness is holding on. Can I simply cut the harness, and delete it?
#1825
Rennlist Member
Thanks to Bill Pfister for calling me on a Sunday to set me on the right path.
Dont cut anything!
So I carefully followed the lines back into the car, all the way back to the CCU connectors. Also dragged a 14 pin connector through the hole. So we left everything intact for a complete harness and HVAC suitcase that will be wall art. Ha!
Dont cut anything!
So I carefully followed the lines back into the car, all the way back to the CCU connectors. Also dragged a 14 pin connector through the hole. So we left everything intact for a complete harness and HVAC suitcase that will be wall art. Ha!
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heliolps2 (03-28-2021)
#1828
Rennlist Member
#1829
Rennlist Member
#1830
Rennlist Member