964 PROGRESS - **Best Driving Roads in the World & Race Prep**
#136
Three Wheelin'
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lol, GT one gave me list of jobs, as long as your arm, that "needed doing" when mine went in for a full service last year though slightly less expensive than yours by the sounds of it Frank.
I was cross when got the car up on my ramp and decided half the jobs they said needed doing really didn't, things like saying the brake pads were down to the wear indicators when they were nowhere near, and saying there was a leak from a gearbox seal where there wasn't. I don't know, maybe they're used to customer who expect their 911's to be factory fresh.
I'd definitely give the clutch a good bleed before you write it off - did mine recently and it had brought the pedal back somewhat. I had assumed this was part of the full service that GT one did but the bleed nipple was so gunged up nothing came out, until I took it out and cleaned it, so they can't have done it.
Also it sounds like a big enough spend that I'd take it down to Tongola or even no5 and get estimates for the work, I think I read on here that someone else got GTone to match a quote for Tongola, so worth a go at least.
I was cross when got the car up on my ramp and decided half the jobs they said needed doing really didn't, things like saying the brake pads were down to the wear indicators when they were nowhere near, and saying there was a leak from a gearbox seal where there wasn't. I don't know, maybe they're used to customer who expect their 911's to be factory fresh.
I'd definitely give the clutch a good bleed before you write it off - did mine recently and it had brought the pedal back somewhat. I had assumed this was part of the full service that GT one did but the bleed nipple was so gunged up nothing came out, until I took it out and cleaned it, so they can't have done it.
Also it sounds like a big enough spend that I'd take it down to Tongola or even no5 and get estimates for the work, I think I read on here that someone else got GTone to match a quote for Tongola, so worth a go at least.
#137
Drifting
Thread Starter
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lol, GT one gave me list of jobs, as long as your arm, that "needed doing" when mine went in for a full service last year though slightly less expensive than yours by the sounds of it Frank. I was cross when got the car up on my ramp and decided half the jobs they said needed doing really didn't, things like saying the brake pads were down to the wear indicators when they were nowhere near, and saying there was a leak from a gearbox seal where there wasn't. I don't know maybe they're used to customer who expect their 911's to be factory fresh.
I'd definitely give the clutch a good bleed before you write it off - did mine recently and it had brought the pedal back somewhat. I had assumed this was part of the full service that GT one did but the bleed nipple was so gunged up nothing came out, until I took it out and cleaned it, so they can't have done it.
Also sounds like a big enough spend that I'd take it down to Tongola or even no5 and get estimates for the work, I think I read on hear someone else that got GTone to match a quote for Tongola, so worth a go at least.
I'd definitely give the clutch a good bleed before you write it off - did mine recently and it had brought the pedal back somewhat. I had assumed this was part of the full service that GT one did but the bleed nipple was so gunged up nothing came out, until I took it out and cleaned it, so they can't have done it.
Also sounds like a big enough spend that I'd take it down to Tongola or even no5 and get estimates for the work, I think I read on hear someone else that got GTone to match a quote for Tongola, so worth a go at least.
But absolutely, you're right and so I did. I popped into No5 to have them have a look and tell me the extent of what GT One had pointed out and they concurred that 'while I was in there' for the clutch...
I'm the one who got GT one to match Tognola, I've got a quote from No5 and as such GTOne seem cheaper...
#138
Three Wheelin'
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Yeah, don't get me wrong I've had long convos with both the bosses down at GT One and I like their approach generally, like you say their know 964s well and are really thorough and they were pretty relaxed about the list of jobs they gave me, they weren't at all "so when are you going to book it in?". And over the last year I've probably worked my way through the 2/3rds of the list that I "agreed with".
I'm trying to look at 964 ownership as a rolling restoration. I get really attached to cars and tend to keep them for 10 years so there's plenty of time to get them just right. So, I guess if it was me in your position, I'd assess what REALLY needs doing now and just do that. The "while you're in there" stuff can wait until "next time you're in there" - cause you know there will be a "next time"
I'm trying to look at 964 ownership as a rolling restoration. I get really attached to cars and tend to keep them for 10 years so there's plenty of time to get them just right. So, I guess if it was me in your position, I'd assess what REALLY needs doing now and just do that. The "while you're in there" stuff can wait until "next time you're in there" - cause you know there will be a "next time"
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#139
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yeah, don't get me wrong I've had long convos with both the bosses down at GT One and I like their approach generally, like you say their know 964s well and are really thorough and they were pretty relaxed about the list of jobs they gave me, they weren't at all "so when are you going to book it in?". And over the last year I've probably worked my way through the 2/3rds of the list that I "agreed with".
I'm trying to look at 964 ownership as a rolling restoration. I get really attached to cars and tend to keep them for 10 years so there's plenty of time to get them just right. So, I guess if it was me in your position, I'd assess what REALLY needs doing now and just do that. The "while you're in there" stuff can wait until "next time you're in there" - cause you know there will be a "next time"![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I'm trying to look at 964 ownership as a rolling restoration. I get really attached to cars and tend to keep them for 10 years so there's plenty of time to get them just right. So, I guess if it was me in your position, I'd assess what REALLY needs doing now and just do that. The "while you're in there" stuff can wait until "next time you're in there" - cause you know there will be a "next time"
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It's just that if I don't get it all done in one go, It'll end up being more expensive over the long term in terms of labour. For example a case of dropping the engine once and not twice... since that is what it'll require.
PS. Ever think of join us for a London 964 meet?
#140
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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I wanted to buy them from somewhere in the UK since it's much cheaper than anywhere I've found in France and I'd rather not give cash to the French! Also, I had a bad delivery experience with another UK parts place, so wanted to try someone different!
They have the KW's, but the sway bars are apparently going to be around 10 days before they get them so I have to wait a bit longer. Ho hum.
Getting back to your oil leaks, the only place I've had a leak before was one of the chain cover gaskets, so an easy and cheap fix. (the last time I looked for them was a year ago, so things might have changed (although sadly only about 2000km) However, it seems like each of my oil pipes are taking turns at leaking at the moment!
Regarding the RS Clutch and Flywheel, I've had mine fitted for about 6 years and love it. The only time I have had stalling problems is when the engine is cold or when I have the air con turned on (when it has gas in the system...- another thing that leaks on these cars!)
I need to get some rust fixed by the windscreen - not much, but it will involve a screen out job. I remember you having something similar done. I'll be having mine fixed at the same time as the suspension - so I can guage how much it should cost, can I ask how much you paid for that?
Anyway, good luck with getting everything sorted and I'm sure it'll be worth it!! You're the same as I am - I'm never going to sell it. I'm keeping it for my son to inherit when he's older!
Andy
They have the KW's, but the sway bars are apparently going to be around 10 days before they get them so I have to wait a bit longer. Ho hum.
Getting back to your oil leaks, the only place I've had a leak before was one of the chain cover gaskets, so an easy and cheap fix. (the last time I looked for them was a year ago, so things might have changed (although sadly only about 2000km) However, it seems like each of my oil pipes are taking turns at leaking at the moment!
Regarding the RS Clutch and Flywheel, I've had mine fitted for about 6 years and love it. The only time I have had stalling problems is when the engine is cold or when I have the air con turned on (when it has gas in the system...- another thing that leaks on these cars!)
I need to get some rust fixed by the windscreen - not much, but it will involve a screen out job. I remember you having something similar done. I'll be having mine fixed at the same time as the suspension - so I can guage how much it should cost, can I ask how much you paid for that?
Anyway, good luck with getting everything sorted and I'm sure it'll be worth it!! You're the same as I am - I'm never going to sell it. I'm keeping it for my son to inherit when he's older!
Andy
#141
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Here is the parts list GT One have supplied me with,
RS Clutch & flywheel conversion:
964641330110 OEM Clutch Kit 964RS LUK
95011681330 OEM Guide Tube
96410223931 OEM Flywheel
96411414331 OEM Ring Gear
92810215101 Pan-head screw x8
90006710301 Pan-head screw x9
99911342641 Shaft sealing ring-crankshaft rear
BCDG001 Component cleaner
Engine external oil cooler:
96420722002 OEM Oil cooler
99970332300 Bonded rubber buffer
90012300730 Sealing ring
Crankshaft front oil seal and cam chain housing gaskets and seals ( both cylinder banks )
99970731340 O-ring x2
93010519705 Gasket x2
96410517301 Gasket-cam cover x6
99310519300 Gasket-chain housing to crankcase x2
96410518101 Gasket-chain cover x2
96410514001 Thrust ring x18
96410517703 Gasket-tensioner x2
99970728840 O-ring x2
99970190940 O-ring x4
99911329041 Crankshaft oil seal-front
99770731540 O-ring
Is there anything missing or off?
RS Clutch & flywheel conversion:
964641330110 OEM Clutch Kit 964RS LUK
95011681330 OEM Guide Tube
96410223931 OEM Flywheel
96411414331 OEM Ring Gear
92810215101 Pan-head screw x8
90006710301 Pan-head screw x9
99911342641 Shaft sealing ring-crankshaft rear
BCDG001 Component cleaner
Engine external oil cooler:
96420722002 OEM Oil cooler
99970332300 Bonded rubber buffer
90012300730 Sealing ring
Crankshaft front oil seal and cam chain housing gaskets and seals ( both cylinder banks )
99970731340 O-ring x2
93010519705 Gasket x2
96410517301 Gasket-cam cover x6
99310519300 Gasket-chain housing to crankcase x2
96410518101 Gasket-chain cover x2
96410514001 Thrust ring x18
96410517703 Gasket-tensioner x2
99970728840 O-ring x2
99970190940 O-ring x4
99911329041 Crankshaft oil seal-front
99770731540 O-ring
Is there anything missing or off?
#142
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So a little update ( Unfortunately & fortunately... ),
Last time the car was in GTOne they also found some other problems - oil leaks![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
:
Cam chain housing - gaskets and seals.
Both bottom cam covers.
Front oil cooler.
Crankshaft front & rear oil seals.
Corrosion on heat exchanger.
Spoiler blind broken.
New luggage compartment seal required.
So after that heart attack of a revelation I decided to carry on driving the 964 until the clutch was at it's true end - since the car pulls, works well and it would give me the much needed time to save up. Thing is hardly have to top up the oil.
Because when you start doing a clutch the engine may as well come out and at that stage you may as well do all the seals, etc.....![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
Now is the time.
GT One have made me a quote for all the work and since I was in there I'm planning an RS Clutch and RS flywheel fitted ( I'm assuming the RS flywheel is a single mass light weight flywheel? ).
So the result is I'm taking deep breaths, trying to concentrate at work and looking forward to the day I pick the car up and it has a clean bill of health. I'll never sell this car.
Anyway, I would appreciate some input/ advice - Is there anything else I should be thinking about during this painful time? Does anybody else's car in this thread leak oil?
Last time the car was in GTOne they also found some other problems - oil leaks
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Cam chain housing - gaskets and seals.
Both bottom cam covers.
Front oil cooler.
Crankshaft front & rear oil seals.
Corrosion on heat exchanger.
Spoiler blind broken.
New luggage compartment seal required.
So after that heart attack of a revelation I decided to carry on driving the 964 until the clutch was at it's true end - since the car pulls, works well and it would give me the much needed time to save up. Thing is hardly have to top up the oil.
Because when you start doing a clutch the engine may as well come out and at that stage you may as well do all the seals, etc.....
![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
Now is the time.
GT One have made me a quote for all the work and since I was in there I'm planning an RS Clutch and RS flywheel fitted ( I'm assuming the RS flywheel is a single mass light weight flywheel? ).
So the result is I'm taking deep breaths, trying to concentrate at work and looking forward to the day I pick the car up and it has a clean bill of health. I'll never sell this car.
Anyway, I would appreciate some input/ advice - Is there anything else I should be thinking about during this painful time? Does anybody else's car in this thread leak oil?
Don't get too hung-up about oil leaks, as long as they aren't indicating major problems - seals do perish over time, and most (all?) 911s leak oil to some extent. You can save replacing the engine seals until the next rebuild!
If the engine is completely out it might be worth replacing, or refurbishing the tin ware.
I believe replacing the spoiler blind is an easy DIY job, but the luggage compartment seal is a bit more complicated (mine needs doing too, but my car doesn't get wet!).
The RS flywheel is "single-mass" and should make the car feel more free-reving and lively - the ignition may need re-mapping to control idle and to prevent stalling when the revs drop. If you get interested in track days, clutches will become disposal items so you'll have many opportunities to change back to standard!
Good luck!
#143
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2010
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Hi Frank
Your car is going to be properly sorted soon. You dont muck about.
Out of interest - is the engine work equivalent to a "top end rebuild" or is this another offering?
My car leaks oil but so far there seems to be no performance impact and I have just had to top it up occasionally. I think it uses roughly 1ltr per 800/900 miles.
I think i will consider some engine work once my clutch goes. So far so good but with no documented change in the file I am not sure what life it has left now its at 92kmiles (it surely cant be the original). Any definitive reason why u went for the RS clutch and flyhweel given you are looking to do only 2-3 trackdays a year?
My spreadsheet list of priorities always changes with the wind...but have to agree...love this car and cant seem to think of any reason to ever want to change it.....so might as well keep making it the best it can be.
Am dropping my car into HP Motorsport on Friday to get a very small list of things done. I hope to then get down to the yearly meet on the 26th.
Cheers,
Your car is going to be properly sorted soon. You dont muck about.
Out of interest - is the engine work equivalent to a "top end rebuild" or is this another offering?
My car leaks oil but so far there seems to be no performance impact and I have just had to top it up occasionally. I think it uses roughly 1ltr per 800/900 miles.
I think i will consider some engine work once my clutch goes. So far so good but with no documented change in the file I am not sure what life it has left now its at 92kmiles (it surely cant be the original). Any definitive reason why u went for the RS clutch and flyhweel given you are looking to do only 2-3 trackdays a year?
My spreadsheet list of priorities always changes with the wind...but have to agree...love this car and cant seem to think of any reason to ever want to change it.....so might as well keep making it the best it can be.
Am dropping my car into HP Motorsport on Friday to get a very small list of things done. I hope to then get down to the yearly meet on the 26th.
Cheers,
#144
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Frank,
Don't get too hung-up about oil leaks, as long as they aren't indicating major problems - seals do perish over time, and most (all?) 911s leak oil to some extent. You can save replacing the engine seals until the next rebuild!
If the engine is completely out it might be worth replacing, or refurbishing the tin ware.
I believe replacing the spoiler blind is an easy DIY job, but the luggage compartment seal is a bit more complicated (mine needs doing too, but my car doesn't get wet!).
The RS flywheel is "single-mass" and should make the car feel more free-reving and lively - the ignition may need re-mapping to control idle and to prevent stalling when the revs drop. If you get interested in track days, clutches will become disposal items so you'll have many opportunities to change back to standard!
Good luck!
Don't get too hung-up about oil leaks, as long as they aren't indicating major problems - seals do perish over time, and most (all?) 911s leak oil to some extent. You can save replacing the engine seals until the next rebuild!
If the engine is completely out it might be worth replacing, or refurbishing the tin ware.
I believe replacing the spoiler blind is an easy DIY job, but the luggage compartment seal is a bit more complicated (mine needs doing too, but my car doesn't get wet!).
The RS flywheel is "single-mass" and should make the car feel more free-reving and lively - the ignition may need re-mapping to control idle and to prevent stalling when the revs drop. If you get interested in track days, clutches will become disposal items so you'll have many opportunities to change back to standard!
Good luck!
I'm thinking of going with a Steve Wong Chip that will take into consideration all my changes, however I'll bring that up with GT One see what they think.
In terms of reliability are there any issues with RS Flywheel and clutch? Do they tend to wear more than the standard items?
Hi Frank
Your car is going to be properly sorted soon. You dont muck about.
Out of interest - is the engine work equivalent to a "top end rebuild" or is this another offering?
My car leaks oil but so far there seems to be no performance impact and I have just had to top it up occasionally. I think it uses roughly 1ltr per 800/900 miles.
I think i will consider some engine work once my clutch goes. So far so good but with no documented change in the file I am not sure what life it has left now its at 92kmiles (it surely cant be the original). Any definitive reason why u went for the RS clutch and flyhweel given you are looking to do only 2-3 trackdays a year?
My spreadsheet list of priorities always changes with the wind...but have to agree...love this car and cant seem to think of any reason to ever want to change it.....so might as well keep making it the best it can be.
Am dropping my car into HP Motorsport on Friday to get a very small list of things done. I hope to then get down to the yearly meet on the 26th.
Cheers,
Your car is going to be properly sorted soon. You dont muck about.
Out of interest - is the engine work equivalent to a "top end rebuild" or is this another offering?
My car leaks oil but so far there seems to be no performance impact and I have just had to top it up occasionally. I think it uses roughly 1ltr per 800/900 miles.
I think i will consider some engine work once my clutch goes. So far so good but with no documented change in the file I am not sure what life it has left now its at 92kmiles (it surely cant be the original). Any definitive reason why u went for the RS clutch and flyhweel given you are looking to do only 2-3 trackdays a year?
My spreadsheet list of priorities always changes with the wind...but have to agree...love this car and cant seem to think of any reason to ever want to change it.....so might as well keep making it the best it can be.
Am dropping my car into HP Motorsport on Friday to get a very small list of things done. I hope to then get down to the yearly meet on the 26th.
Cheers,
After having done my homework through the search function it seems that the RS clutch/ flywheel set up works for my wants even with only 2-3 track days a year - I will really like more free revving when down changing/ blipping.
#145
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
RS Clutch, flywheel and pressure plate is a no brainer, even if you did 0 track days a year. These cars love to be driven hard, anywhere, anytime, and the free revving nature of the car with LT WT kit is "the business." Don't hesitate, you will dig it!
#146
Nordschleife Master
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Some really good input from the other guys above in response to your revelations on the previous page. So what can I add from my own experiences? Well:
GT One are only giving their expert and honest opinions on what they see needs doing at some point. I see that as doing their job properly. Unit 11 gave me a similar diagnosis when mine went in for a service a couple of years ago. They put me under no pressure to get the leaks sorted and indeed I drove it for a year (with no problems) before deciding to treat it to a full engine overhaul. By that I mean I decided it wasn't worth having the engine out just to fix all leaks, I decided that it was best to have the bottom and top done to bring the engine back to full life.
I said at that time I might aswell have an RS clutch and flywheel fitted. However the engine rebuild cost went up so high because of other parts that cropped up e.g. falling apart tins, cracked intake stacks, bad oil pipes, etc, that I couldn't run to getting the clutch done too. And fair dues to Unit 11 because they showed me the clutch and flywheel was in good health and assured me that there was no need to replace it. As it turns out, the cost of doing a clutch and flywheel on its own only takes 5 hours labour (£250 at Unit 11). You still have to buy the parts. So, having a clutch and engine rebuild done at the same time doesn't save a lot in the grand scheme of things.
I've since had the RS clutch/flywheel fitted (I'll pm you the price for comparison). Almost a year after the engine rebuild. Like Andy says, it only stalls in the first couple of minutes when cold. This is more than made up by the way the revs zing to the red line. The car is so much more responsive with it fitted.
So what I'm saying is, there is no necessity to have both engine and clutch done at the same time because it doesn't save a you a lot. If the clutch is the biggest issue, get that done first. However, I would echo other people's advice to ensure that the hanging pedal thing gets fixed as part of this because those signs sound more like hydraulic problems (failing slave or simple bleed) or a crumbling clutch pedal roll pin, rather than problems with the clutch itself.
Other stuff:
Split Spoiler wall - £50 for the part and 10 minutes to change
Bonnet seal - £50 for the part, easy to change but about 2 hours hard work with Tardis solvent to remove the old glue!
Front oil cooler - check with them how desperate it needs doing as you don't want that failing.
GT One are only giving their expert and honest opinions on what they see needs doing at some point. I see that as doing their job properly. Unit 11 gave me a similar diagnosis when mine went in for a service a couple of years ago. They put me under no pressure to get the leaks sorted and indeed I drove it for a year (with no problems) before deciding to treat it to a full engine overhaul. By that I mean I decided it wasn't worth having the engine out just to fix all leaks, I decided that it was best to have the bottom and top done to bring the engine back to full life.
I said at that time I might aswell have an RS clutch and flywheel fitted. However the engine rebuild cost went up so high because of other parts that cropped up e.g. falling apart tins, cracked intake stacks, bad oil pipes, etc, that I couldn't run to getting the clutch done too. And fair dues to Unit 11 because they showed me the clutch and flywheel was in good health and assured me that there was no need to replace it. As it turns out, the cost of doing a clutch and flywheel on its own only takes 5 hours labour (£250 at Unit 11). You still have to buy the parts. So, having a clutch and engine rebuild done at the same time doesn't save a lot in the grand scheme of things.
I've since had the RS clutch/flywheel fitted (I'll pm you the price for comparison). Almost a year after the engine rebuild. Like Andy says, it only stalls in the first couple of minutes when cold. This is more than made up by the way the revs zing to the red line. The car is so much more responsive with it fitted.
So what I'm saying is, there is no necessity to have both engine and clutch done at the same time because it doesn't save a you a lot. If the clutch is the biggest issue, get that done first. However, I would echo other people's advice to ensure that the hanging pedal thing gets fixed as part of this because those signs sound more like hydraulic problems (failing slave or simple bleed) or a crumbling clutch pedal roll pin, rather than problems with the clutch itself.
Other stuff:
Split Spoiler wall - £50 for the part and 10 minutes to change
Bonnet seal - £50 for the part, easy to change but about 2 hours hard work with Tardis solvent to remove the old glue!
Front oil cooler - check with them how desperate it needs doing as you don't want that failing.
#147
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Some really good input from the other guys above in response to your revelations on the previous page. So what can I add from my own experiences? Well:
GT One are only giving their expert and honest opinions on what they see needs doing at some point. I see that as doing their job properly. Unit 11 gave me a similar diagnosis when mine went in for a service a couple of years ago. They put me under no pressure to get the leaks sorted and indeed I drove it for a year (with no problems) before deciding to treat it to a full engine overhaul. By that I mean I decided it wasn't worth having the engine out just to fix all leaks, I decided that it was best to have the bottom and top done to bring the engine back to full life.
I said at that time I might aswell have an RS clutch and flywheel fitted. However the engine rebuild cost went up so high because of other parts that cropped up e.g. falling apart tins, cracked intake stacks, bad oil pipes, etc, that I couldn't run to getting the clutch done too. And fair dues to Unit 11 because they showed me the clutch and flywheel was in good health and assured me that there was no need to replace it. As it turns out, the cost of doing a clutch and flywheel on its own only takes 5 hours labour (£250 at Unit 11). You still have to buy the parts. So, having a clutch and engine rebuild done at the same time doesn't save a lot in the grand scheme of things.
I've since had the RS clutch/flywheel fitted (I'll pm you the price for comparison). Almost a year after the engine rebuild. Like Andy says, it only stalls in the first couple of minutes when cold. This is more than made up by the way the revs zing to the red line. The car is so much more responsive with it fitted.
So what I'm saying is, there is no necessity to have both engine and clutch done at the same time because it doesn't save a you a lot. If the clutch is the biggest issue, get that done first. However, I would echo other people's advice to ensure that the hanging pedal thing gets fixed as part of this because those signs sound more like hydraulic problems (failing slave or simple bleed) or a crumbling clutch pedal roll pin, rather than problems with the clutch itself.
Other stuff:
Split Spoiler wall - £50 for the part and 10 minutes to change
Bonnet seal - £50 for the part, easy to change but about 2 hours hard work with Tardis solvent to remove the old glue!
Front oil cooler - check with them how desperate it needs doing as you don't want that failing.
GT One are only giving their expert and honest opinions on what they see needs doing at some point. I see that as doing their job properly. Unit 11 gave me a similar diagnosis when mine went in for a service a couple of years ago. They put me under no pressure to get the leaks sorted and indeed I drove it for a year (with no problems) before deciding to treat it to a full engine overhaul. By that I mean I decided it wasn't worth having the engine out just to fix all leaks, I decided that it was best to have the bottom and top done to bring the engine back to full life.
I said at that time I might aswell have an RS clutch and flywheel fitted. However the engine rebuild cost went up so high because of other parts that cropped up e.g. falling apart tins, cracked intake stacks, bad oil pipes, etc, that I couldn't run to getting the clutch done too. And fair dues to Unit 11 because they showed me the clutch and flywheel was in good health and assured me that there was no need to replace it. As it turns out, the cost of doing a clutch and flywheel on its own only takes 5 hours labour (£250 at Unit 11). You still have to buy the parts. So, having a clutch and engine rebuild done at the same time doesn't save a lot in the grand scheme of things.
I've since had the RS clutch/flywheel fitted (I'll pm you the price for comparison). Almost a year after the engine rebuild. Like Andy says, it only stalls in the first couple of minutes when cold. This is more than made up by the way the revs zing to the red line. The car is so much more responsive with it fitted.
So what I'm saying is, there is no necessity to have both engine and clutch done at the same time because it doesn't save a you a lot. If the clutch is the biggest issue, get that done first. However, I would echo other people's advice to ensure that the hanging pedal thing gets fixed as part of this because those signs sound more like hydraulic problems (failing slave or simple bleed) or a crumbling clutch pedal roll pin, rather than problems with the clutch itself.
Other stuff:
Split Spoiler wall - £50 for the part and 10 minutes to change
Bonnet seal - £50 for the part, easy to change but about 2 hours hard work with Tardis solvent to remove the old glue!
Front oil cooler - check with them how desperate it needs doing as you don't want that failing.
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#148
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These things split quite often and easily. An easy DIY (and to put an extra £50 towards the stuff that needs doing) is to unclip it (it comes off easily) and use duct tape to connect the 2 parts back together again. I did mine at Le Mans a few years ago and it's still fine.
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[QUOTE=Porsche964FP;8636347]So a little update ( Unfortunately & fortunately... ),
Last time the car was in GTOne they also found some other problems - oil leaks![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
:
Cam chain housing - gaskets and seals.
Both bottom cam covers.
Front oil cooler.
Crankshaft front & rear oil seals.
Corrosion on heat exchanger.
Does anybody else's car in this thread leak oil?
QUOTE]
Mine leaks like a seive and is only getting worse. I'm currently using /losing around 0.5 - 1litre every 1000miles. The back of the car can get a little messy.![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Now has 106,000miles on it and definately ready for at the very least a top end rebuild and a lot of the seals you mention.
While in there... new clutch, flywheel and no doubt lots of other things which I haven't even considered.
Thomas
Last time the car was in GTOne they also found some other problems - oil leaks
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Cam chain housing - gaskets and seals.
Both bottom cam covers.
Front oil cooler.
Crankshaft front & rear oil seals.
Corrosion on heat exchanger.
Does anybody else's car in this thread leak oil?
QUOTE]
Mine leaks like a seive and is only getting worse. I'm currently using /losing around 0.5 - 1litre every 1000miles. The back of the car can get a little messy.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Now has 106,000miles on it and definately ready for at the very least a top end rebuild and a lot of the seals you mention.
While in there... new clutch, flywheel and no doubt lots of other things which I haven't even considered.
Thomas
#150
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Car goes in to GT-One on the 12th for the aforementioned work... was waiting for the beginning of this month for the final bit of money to add to what I'd been saving for all this stuff ![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Anyway... as the LWF is going in and I've read up on the idle issues, I ordered the Steve Wong chip which takes into consideration LWF, Cat by-pass, G-Pipe. Watch this space it'll get busy soonish!
I'll be away on work from the 13th to the 20th, after which I'll be picking up the car which will be ready for the Donnington 964 track day on the 24th... best way to break in that new LWF and RS clutch![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I hope some of the London 964 Owners will come and watch! Should be a great day out for partakers and spectators a like! Especially considering Donnigton's not far from London.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Anyway... as the LWF is going in and I've read up on the idle issues, I ordered the Steve Wong chip which takes into consideration LWF, Cat by-pass, G-Pipe. Watch this space it'll get busy soonish!
I'll be away on work from the 13th to the 20th, after which I'll be picking up the car which will be ready for the Donnington 964 track day on the 24th... best way to break in that new LWF and RS clutch
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I hope some of the London 964 Owners will come and watch! Should be a great day out for partakers and spectators a like! Especially considering Donnigton's not far from London.
Last edited by Porsche964FP; 07-04-2011 at 05:52 PM.