Nski

Holes were made, then the brackets had to be mounted and welded from the back in the shaft tunnel, and the screw eyelet is screwed from the hole in the cabin.






Dont worry the eyelets are screwed in properly!

Nski

JJ did wonders, and this is what it looks like from inside the shaft tunnel. Another job done on the list!

boxsey911

Good job on the tunnel harness bolts. By coincidence mine were done earlier this week too. However, I've only got the passenger harness fitted at the moment because Demon Tweeks sent me two LEFT harnesses! When I phoned them to inform them that I needed them to swap one for a right harness, they were adamant that the current left harness would fit on the right! They saw the error of their ways when I pointed them to the Schroth website where it clearly stated that harnesses were left or right specific.

Nski

Steveo, which harnesses did you get in the end? And where these the same ones that you got discount for?

Surely, with 2 left ones, they still could have got the harness points done with the given harness eyelets?

boxsey911

Yes, all the eye bolts were put in. There's no problem with those, it was only when we came to fit the harness to right seat that it became obvious that harnesses are not interchangeable. The lap belt with the buckle permanently attached, would only fit when it was put on the right side (when it should be on the tunnel side) and the shoulder straps could not be swapped because of the angle of the tabs that go in to the buckle - this would have meant that ASM strap would have been on the wrong shoulder. It's all sorted now because a correct right harness is on its way to me.

Indeed, they are the Schroth Clubman II ASM harnesses that I got the 10% discount on. The discount was just a seaonal thing and nothing to do with old or incorrect stock!

Nski

Nice one Steveo!

Next, heres were I did something useful Stripping the rear engine, excuse my un-pro photos taken with my phone as usual. Obviously difficult when doing stripping and having grotty hands

Anyway, first step was to take the rear spoiler off the rear lid, which I found was straight forward.


Taking note how it is, and how it should be when I build it back!ha




Unbolt 2 bolts on the right side of the lid

Nski

Obviously, I unbolted 3 small bolts that hold the hindge bracket 1st, but better doing the 2 main bolts 1st.





then the same on the otherside, but found the left side had a plastic cover I think is there to protect the mechs.



2 screws holding the plastic trim as shown

Nski

Once the cover is taken off, undo the 2 bolts like right side again.

Nski

After removing the bolts same way as the right side, the spoiler lid should come loose once the 2 cogs come off each other and watch the sensor pins, which probably triggers the sensor for the spoiler to be up or down.

Nski

Then the rest of the wiring for the spoiler motor, light, earth wire, lid hinge is all straight forward to remove. The light trigger sensor can be removed, taking off the rubber top, then held on by a small bolt.





Oh and lastly the mesh grill, held on by small disc clips removed with a small screwdriver.





Voila

Nski

STOP! QUESTION ........................How is the plastic underneath-grill held onto the rear spoiler lid? Clip, bonded?

thanks

Norm

ray stobbs

happy chinise new year to to you norm sorry can not help with the spioler but the car look great nearly time for that colour

psychoideas

G'day Norm,

Unfortunately i think that they are bonded together.

boxsey911

Are you referring to the spoiler wall? If so, it's snapped onto the bottom retaining bar and slides on at the top.

J81 JKR

boxseys correct - ive just ordered myself a new one from design911 - £52ish (na)