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Made pretty good progress last night. We got the clearances all checked, no issues there but I am glad we went through the time to check. Why anyone wouldn't do this after spending thousands upon thousands of dollars for their rebuild is beyond me. Anyway, on to the progress!
Got the rocker arms all installed and torqued down, hydraulic chain tensioners, chain covers, FPR and associated hard lines, intake, distributors, and power steering pump is mostly assembled.
It wouldn't be a night working on the car if something didn't go to plan, however. Since the PO decided 993 camtowers/cams would be a good idea, that also means I have the plastic 993 valve cover gaskets. Which, incidentally have a different shape than the 964 gaskets. So, we couldn't fully button the engine up last night, time to have the new gaskets overnighted.
Can anyone tell me what the part number is for this fuel line?
I found 964.110.413.01, but it's straight instead of having the bends in. This could be because the line I have was made aftermarket, or my Google Fu could be very weak.
The fuel line that actually broke (goes to cyl. 4-6) looks like p/n 964-110-412-02
You aren't going to be happy when I say that the nuts you used to mount the engine to the stand will not allow you to mount the flywheel. You need to have no obstructions in that area otherwise the flywheel can't be mounted the tolerances are that tight. Ask me how I know??
I also see you did not mount the sheet metal prior to the power steering pump. Are you not using the engine tins. That side engine tin needs to be mounted prior to the pump being installed.
I am doing mine now and although my fuel lines are soft and flexible and feel as new I am seriously considering replacing them. It isn't worth a fire if they fail and they do fail more often after being messed with.
The 993 upper valve covers are a better design with 8 bolts holding them down vs the 964's 6. Although it makes removing the valve cover a PITA and you need to remove the power steering pump to do so unlike the 964 which can be done with the pump in place.
You aren't going to be happy when I say that the nuts you used to mount the engine to the stand will not allow you to mount the flywheel. You need to have no obstructions in that area otherwise the flywheel can't be mounted the tolerances are that tight. Ask me how I know??
I also see you did not mount the sheet metal prior to the power steering pump. Are you not using the engine tins. That side engine tin needs to be mounted prior to the pump being installed.
I am doing mine now and although my fuel lines are soft and flexible and feel as new I am seriously considering replacing them. It isn't worth a fire if they fail and they do fail more often after being messed with.
The 993 upper valve covers are a better design with 8 bolts holding them down vs the 964's 6. Although it makes removing the valve cover a PITA and you need to remove the power steering pump to do so unlike the 964 which can be done with the pump in place.
Thanks for the heads up on the flywheel, we were planning on installing it off the stand, anyway. My buddy has a tool to keep the engine from turning over.
The fuel lines are something I should have thought about, I replaced the feed/return line to the tank with AN lines last year because the OEM ones were shot, just a silly oversight on my part. Just need to pull up the PET to confirm part numbers and get them ordered up.
Also, yes I noticed the PS pump/engine tin issue last night and got that resolved. So, how all the tins are in place along with the PS pump. That little corner is little bit like playing Tetris, making sure everything goes in the right order and fits neatly.
Cobalt, just grabbed the part numbers for easy reference should you need them: 96411041104 - LH FPR to rail fuel line
96411041202 - RH FPR to fuel rail line
Today was pretty successful. I talked to my buddy at a local Porsche shop about getting the OEM fuel lines, he recommended I just use some FI fuel line (rated to 6.9 bar) and some FI hose clamps (similar rating) instead of spending the $375 for the new lines. Got those put together and installed, what a difference new rubber vs 31 year old stuff makes!
I got the intake runners all bolted down, injectors/fuel rails all buttoned up, and decided to call it a night.
I installed the tins last night but didn't take any pictures so here are some glamor shots....the garage looks like a bomb went off, but at least the fan is pretty.
The hose is fine. I just can't seem to trust clamps like this for a pressurized oil or fuel line. I understand they are rated but IMO a risky proposition. Any chance you can find a local hydraulic line shop to crimp some ends on them for you?
I re-hosed the fuel lines on my 3.2 using Gates ethanol / injection rated hose and double oetiker clamps. If you are going this route I would strongly consider the lower profile stepless oetikers which are often installed by factories for applications like this. Do you happen to have photos of the metal ends of the lines which you re-hosed? It was pointed out on another thread that certain fuel lines are press-fit and not suitable for re-hosing. I have been wondering if the others have barbs or are straight ?
Fair enough on the hose clamps; I trust my guy's opinion, but overbuilt is always better, right?
I'm sure there is someone locally that can get it taken care of. I'll call around to see today.
I re-hosed the fuel lines on my 3.2 using Gates ethanol / injection rated hose and double oetiker clamps. If you are going this route I would strongly consider the lower profile stepless oetikers which are often installed by factories for applications like this. Do you happen to have photos of the metal ends of the lines which you re-hosed? It was pointed out on another thread that certain fuel lines are press-fit and not suitable for re-hosing. I have been wondering if the others have barbs or are straight ?
I’m pretty sure those fittings are press fit and not intended for clamps. I just went through this on my 92. I used double oetiker’s on my double barb fittings (pic below) but had Len Cummings redo the others. I think he does press fit and also lines with new compression fittings using Cohline 2240 (pic at bottom). He’ll turn them around quick. Here’s his email if needed:
len.cummings at verizon dot net
I’m pretty sure those fittings are press fit and not intended for clamps. I just went through this on my 92. I used double oetiker’s on my double barb fittings (pic below) but had Len Cummings redo the others. I think he does press fit and also lines with new compression fittings using Cohline 2240 (pic at bottom). He’ll turn them around quick. Here’s his email if needed:
len.cummings at verizon dot net
I actually just ordered a pack of Oetikers and a clamping tool, will pick them up today and replace the cheap FI hose clamps that are on there now.
Hoping I can get the hose off the barbs. Should have taken the advise I give my employees, do it once and do it right.
I don’t know if this helps, but here’s two pics. The first is of a press fit and the other intended for a compression collar or clamp. See how the last barb is bigger, that prevents the collar/ hose from slipping. The clamp/compression can’t be made on top of it but before it to prevent slipping or cutting into the hose.
Looking at the compression fit to my eyes the collars are just acting like double/wider oetiker clamps. So, doubling up an oetiker clamp on each end would have the same effect, no?
I'm not concerned about the negligible cost of getting collars crimped on, but if it's something I can do myself and is as good there's no point (to me) sending it out.
04-28-2020, 09:48 AM
Should have taken the advise I give my employees, do it once and do it right. 
