When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes they are forged vs cast and weigh less. Thye surface finish is a giveaway. I never calculated out actual weight savings which I should have but prior to machining a lot of material off there was about 3/4 a pound saved so I suspect about 1 pound in total which is nice for higher revving engines.
The $2K included new mechanical profile cams. Getting a set of mechanical rockers is ~$500-700. I got my new hydraulic lifters in today and will install them this evening. Here's hoping...
The $2K included new mechanical profile cams. Getting a set of mechanical rockers is ~$500-700. I got my new hydraulic lifters in today and will install them this evening. Here's hoping...
I wish I saw this earlier. The engine only had 30k miles on it when I removed them. I would have sent you the lifters I had. Where are you coming up with $700 for the rockers? Sunset gets $132.75 ea x 12 so $1593 and IIRC I don't think worldpac was much cheaper but I would need to check. You also need the elephant foot and jam nut.
Originally Posted by wallra
Anthony is the profile the same. hard to tell in the picture would of been nice to see them sitting on top of each other.
That would be a total faux pas if they weren't but I did check and they are the same. We had to make up a jig to inspect everything and allow setup for machining. There are some threads on the 993 forums where others had done this which I found after doing all the leg work.
I wish I saw this earlier. The engine only had 30k miles on it when I removed them. I would have sent you the lifters I had. Where are you coming up with $700 for the rockers? Sunset gets $132.75 ea x 12 so $1593 and IIRC I don't think worldpac was much cheaper but I would need to check. You also need the elephant foot and jam nut.
That would be a total faux pas if they weren't but I did check and they are the same. We had to make up a jig to inspect everything and allow setup for machining. There are some threads on the 993 forums where others had done this which I found after doing all the leg work.
Looking at used rockers on eBay. If I wanted new I found some for ~$1K, but cant remember for the life of me from where. Either way, the car is staying hydraulic (for now) hoping the new lifters fix the issue.
Thanks much! Yes, whenever I pull drivetrain stuff, before I start the car I rotate the engine a few times by hand to make sure everything went back together correctly, then I pull the DME (R41) relay, crank it a few times until I get .5 bar of oil pressure, then reinstall the relay and start.
Did that last night after the new lifters, still no different. I'm trying to find the wiring diagram for the engine harness so I can re-check the injector plug wire colors to make sure they're all routed to the proper injector.
Thanks much! Yes, whenever I pull drivetrain stuff, before I start the car I rotate the engine a few times by hand to make sure everything went back together correctly, then I pull the DME (R41) relay, crank it a few times until I get .5 bar of oil pressure, then reinstall the relay and start.
Did that last night after the new lifters, still no different. I'm trying to find the wiring diagram for the engine harness so I can re-check the injector plug wire colors to make sure they're all routed to the proper injector.
Not sure if you’ve done this yet, but your symptoms could align with similar issues.. have you scoped the crank sensor signal to see if all is correct?
Also confirming you are now smelling gallons of unburnt fuel? When my injectors were bad it was an immediate tipoff that my no start was fuel related: days of crank no start and zero fuel smell. you can also, carefully, pull the fuel rail, connect just one injector to its harness plug and shoot it off into a beaker to ground-truth what the noid light, fp gauge etc are suggesting to be the case.
presume you checked crank position sensor is same part 964/993 (can't recall if we discussed this already)
Not sure if you’ve done this yet, but your symptoms could align with similar issues.. have you scoped the crank sensor signal to see if all is correct?
I checked resistance of it and everything falls within spec per the factory manual.
Originally Posted by r-mm
Also confirming you are now smelling gallons of unburnt fuel? When my injectors were bad it was an immediate tipoff that my no start was fuel related: days of crank no start and zero fuel smell. you can also, carefully, pull the fuel rail, connect just one injector to its harness plug and shoot it off into a beaker to ground-truth what the noid light, fp gauge etc are suggesting to be the case.
presume you checked crank position sensor is same part 964/993 (can't recall if we discussed this already)
I am definitely smelling fuel, and it's seeming to run on 3-4 cylinders. Very lope-y and shaky, which to sounds like the timing of one of the components (spark, fuel, air) is off from the others. I've swapped my buddy's known to function injectors in with no change. Then put my freshly rebuild injectors into his car, which ran just fine.
I have the injector wiring diagram pulled up and will verify I didn't screw that up somehow when re-installing everything.
Houston, we found the problem (most likely)! My flywheel must have gotten dropped in shipping, and of course I didn't inspect for this when installing it. I was very careful with it when it was delivered; kept it in the bag/box/shipping box in the corner of my garage until it was time to install.
That would explain the "kind of running, and all other options have been checked issue". The reference sensors here are bent in 2-3mm, and when the crank sensor needs to be gapped to 1mm that's a significant change. The car was effectively reading 2 TDC marks, dumping in fuel at the wrong time, not firing at the right time, etc.
On the positive side, going through all of this has given me an intimate understanding of my engine, what makes it work, how it's assembled, and I'm a whiz at not only removing and installing the engine, but also cam timing. I have cam timing down to an art at this point! As soon as I get the new flywheel in and installed I'll let you guys know how it goes. Then it's a matter of getting the new C2 trans set up and functioning. Then break in time...
07-30-2020, 04:04 PM
As soon as I get the new flywheel in and installed I'll let you guys know how it goes. Then it's a matter of getting the new C2 trans set up and functioning. Then break in time...
