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Fantastic- You must be feeling great going though the gears!
In retrospect is there any way you could have diagnosed this issue? The only thing that comes to mind is putting the flywheel sensor on a scope- would that have worked?
Pete
I don't believe so. I'm sure there is some method out there that I could have used, but nothing I'm familiar with. Maybe checking values via oscilloscope, but not sure.
Originally Posted by 95_993
Double check the grommet just below were the end of the throttle cable connects.
Looks like the cruise control cable was getting hung up in its housing (on the front of the intake where it connects to the throttle linkage). Didn't get a chance to drive it after I spotted that, will definitely report back, though.
Still getting the stumble/breakup around 4K; it seems like it may be an ignition issue, but I'll need to drive some more to diagnose.
There are "quiet" areas where you can build in relative peace...you just need to find them. It could take you a lot of time to determine where is quiet though. Cannibals tend to follow the same patrol routes all the time, and these are documented online, if you want to make it a bit easier at first. I'm about 350 hours in and I'm fairly confident I can make it from one side of the map to the other without bumping into any cannibals, out knowing where I can put down a base.
Probably not the thread you meant to reply to, but I appreciate the interesting read!
There are "quiet" areas where you can build in relative peace...you just need to find them. It could take you a lot of time to determine where is quiet though. Cannibals tend to follow the same patrol routes all the time, and these are documented online, if you want to make it a bit easier at first. I'm about 350 hours in and I'm fairly confident I can make it from one side of the map to the other without bumping into any cannibals, out knowing where I can put down a base.
Good point, at the end of the day its your car but I'd reconsider before butting down a base in Cannibal territory..
lol how'd this bot get thru?
Also: CONGRATS on the hard work. Its funny. Sometimes I think every problem has been solved by hundreds of others on this board and we're all dealing with the same things... but then there seems to be one little gotcha on every job that only YOU spot. Good work.
Following up on my check-list. There's some and some
Throttle sticking randomly, that was a surprise when I went to let off to let the car engine brake and it kept accelerating!
It would help if the vacuum tee that's on the back of the throttle body was still on and NOT getting stuck under the throttle linkage. Problem solved!
Speedo doesn't work (likely due to the C2 swap, will have to get into the LF wheel to figure that bit out)
Still haven't gotten around to finding out why on this one
There's a stumble around 4-4.5K
As a result of that there's some jiggling/vibrating coming through the shifter
I might try my stock chip to see if it's that or if there's further diagnosis that needs to take place
Still there, but less than before. Going to try driving the car some more to see if the Wong chip/Motronic sort themselves out
The car feels like it has manual brakes instead of power brakes
This is most likely related to the speedo issue; i.e. the ABS sensor/relay/etc. aren't getting the proper signal.
I'd prefer manual brakes, but don't really want to give up ABS...
Again, might help if I wasn't a moron half the time. Plugged the booster pump back in et voila! power brakes are back. Though I'm still getting "Anti-lock" and "little picture of PDAS system" lights on the gauges.
Regarding the stumble, I had a similar issue and the AFM wiper arm had worn a spot in its track. Bending the arm to use a new track fixed the issue. Part of my motivation to move away from the AFM one day.
ABS light/PDAS light fixed...because I didn't reconnect the power for the ABS unit to the battery.
Had a check engine light pop on, then turn off. Brought it to my buddy who has a durometric, looks like it's a knock sensor issue. Not sure if they're bad or just over tightened
I've heard that if they're too tight they pick up too much vibration from the engine at certain RPMs thus causing the stumbling issue. I'll see about poking at them tonight, though they're a bit of a PITA to get to
Still no speedo function, I used the sensor from the used trans I bought. I'll see if I can find the one I had in the G64 box that was functioning, will try swapping that over tonight, also.
Other than that, the car is running awesome. WAY more power than before from my woeful leak-down numbers and AWD. I still need to get the car corner balanced and pick up some H&R adjustable swaybars to rebalance the car after taking out all that weight. Then it's time to take it out to the track and embarrass some newer cars.
I cleaned the knock sensor connectors when I had my motor out and then got an intermittent knock sensor number 2 error several thousand miles after reinstalling it. I swore it could not be something so simple as the connectors again but in fact removing them and cleaning them using deoxit or whatever does appear to have solve the issue entirely
ABS light/PDAS light fixed...because I didn't reconnect the power for the ABS unit to the battery.
Had a check engine light pop on, then turn off. Brought it to my buddy who has a durometric, looks like it's a knock sensor issue. Not sure if they're bad or just over tightened
I've heard that if they're too tight they pick up too much vibration from the engine at certain RPMs thus causing the stumbling issue. I'll see about poking at them tonight, though they're a bit of a PITA to get to
Still no speedo function, I used the sensor from the used trans I bought. I'll see if I can find the one I had in the G64 box that was functioning, will try swapping that over tonight, also.
Other than that, the car is running awesome. WAY more power than before from my woeful leak-down numbers and AWD. I still need to get the car corner balanced and pick up some H&R adjustable swaybars to rebalance the car after taking out all that weight. Then it's time to take it out to the track and embarrass some newer cars.
Great to see your progress and success. I have to remind myself that my car is still 30 years old. So even as it seems to "run like new" after installing many new parts - it's still largely 30 years old. Something old that is still in the car will soon be jealous of the new parts next to it and scream for attention. My speedo stopped working the day I got my AC working. Of course that was just coincidence but it turned out the speedo gear inside the guage had failed. It gave no prior warning - like intermittent operation. It just failed. There are several threads here on how to repair them for about $60 using parts available from Speedometer Gear. Turns out Speedometer Gear will repair the speedo for about $190 - parts included. I sent them the speedo and had it back in the car working 5 days later.
Took the 964 to the dyno yesterday, had some significant breakup. Not sure if it's timing, fuel, knock, barn door, etc.
Starts ~4,000 RPM and is pretty significant. If you get past ~4,500 RPM it clears up a bit and will pull to redline, but still not how it should.
It's running a little on the lean side, but nothing significant. I'm running 93 octane in it with a Steve Wong custom chip.
Put down 252hp & 227tq at the wheels. Not too bad, but I bet it would be better if it didn't break up.
08-12-2020, 08:51 PM
and some 
