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Thanks again Ricardo! Now I get that you have a completely different system.
Ubipa- nice call there. My stated goal is to eliminate as much of the front to rear systems as possible. Electric ⚡️ steering, hoping to do electric AC compressor ($$$) and this vacuum pump fits right in with that theme. The UP30 is the one to use for a standalone system. Wonder what is used for the vacuum pressure switch??
I want to loose the Evap line from the fuel tank if possible and just generally future proof (simplify) all systems related to the intake.
Rob,
I‘m installing motec and loosing the Afm and stock air box as well- so I won’t get to use my WOT do-daddy after all because I’m adding a TPS in that location. Too bad! May need some help sourcing bearings as so far I can only find un- sealed versions.
I do not have a rebuild thread. I should start a de-build thread because that's what I seem to be best at! Until the engine most of the work done on the car was by an independent that was a trained factory mechanic. But once we got to the engine rebuild I know I wanted to be involved so I started out doing the work at his place with his guidance and tools (and lift!) But his shop is far away so it was hard to make any progress when I only have an hour or 2 a week to put into the build. Also I'm way more detail oriented than he is so- I brought the project home. Now I have my shop set up and its moving along. Car is at the body shop going on the body jig for a solid check and will be corrected if necessary. I have 6 speed built up with the gears ratios of my choice. Upon rebuilding for oil leaks I decided to replace the pistons and cylinders with 3.8 stuff and mild cams with motec. Intake is stock obviously and exhaust is cat and primary delete.
Favorite tool:
Love the ultrasonic in combo with this! In fact I ran kerosene in it today and drain directly to the parts washer.
Most recent tools for the engine rebuild:
Got a sweet deal on these- and will likely give someone else a sweet deal when I'm done with them!
In regards to the bearings in the Intake: SKF HK 0812.2RS
SKF HK 1012 RS (only single seal version available)
I initially ordered on Amazon via Global Power. Ordered on 4/11/2020 and nothing has shipped. I called and left a message and also using to Amazon tools to get a response. I am going to try and cancel my order and get a refund.
I went to the SKF website www.skf.com and found a local distributor near me. I called them up, talked to a person, who told me these bearings were in stock in Tennessee and would have them for me in a few days. So I would recommend that route of ordering. SKF has distributors worldwide that you can call.
Ubipa- nice call there. My stated goal is to eliminate as much of the front to rear systems as possible. Electric ⚡️ steering, hoping to do electric AC compressor ($$$) and this vacuum pump fits right in with that theme. The UP30 is the one to use for a standalone system. Wonder what is used for the vacuum pressure switch??
I want to loose the Evap line from the fuel tank if possible and just generally future proof (simplify) all systems related to the intake.
The setup with the electric booster pump I’ve seen uses a simple pressure switch integrated with the vac fitting on the brake booster. When the vac drops, the pump kicks in.
Thinning out the biziness of the engine, like it! Can’t wait to see how it turns out. I’m doing a little shave and tuck now. Custom work takes so much time though... 😕
Here’s my shaved manifold and trimmed TB. Working on switching to Push-to-connect Vac lines on TB assembly now.
Looking good with the shave and that TB is seriously clean! I thought I was doing good.... I'm considering doing the same on the shave but I'll probably do version 1 intake, get the car running and try various stuff then pull it off get stuff plated, shaved coated etc next season. I need to incorporate the MAP sensor. If I can I'll just be left with the ICV, Map, Res flap (which I suppose requires keeping the vacuum tank) and TPS. My set up does not use the micro switches either as they are replaced by the TPS.
Here is a vacuum switch if ever one of us need it. But if it all goes well with just a check valve on the booster like I'll keep it in the name of simplicity so let us know how that goes. https://www.evwest.com/catalog/produ...roducts_id=290
Hi Pete, the map sensor I put on the port where the purge valve plugs in. what are you using for the TPS sensor clewetts? I had that setup but now using Rasants setup on the ITB's.
Hi Pete, the map sensor I put on the port where the purge valve plugs in. what are you using for the TPS sensor clewetts? I had that setup but now using Rasants setup on the ITB's.
Why did you switch and which TPS does Rasant use? Isn’t the Clewett’s a hall based sensor? I’m currently piecing my system together... switched to the tip TB with the proper D shaft and a temporary Bosch switch, but will be going with a P&G hall TPS.
Mine is from 9m- functional but not nearly as cool as the clewett set up. Its just a piece of sheet metal that the TPS bolts to with standoff tubes which long bolts run through to the TB. I want something better for sure. The sensor is super generic looking with a part number that comes up as being for a Range Rover.
Wallra- was your car a plastic manifold? I was seriously considering looking for a plastic set up but despite what everyone says I have not found any data that supports it being better than the early aluminum. In fact my guess is that the cost of manufacuring the aluminum runners and double butterfly manifold was one of the motivations to go to the plastic units. Now looking at Ubipa's TB I see how simple and clean the later model TB is and kinda with I had gone to the trouble to search one out. But saving my $$$ for ransant in the next few years.....
Mine is from 9m- functional but not nearly as cool as the clewett set up. Its just a piece of sheet metal that the TPS bolts to with standoff tubes which long bolts run through to the TB. I want something better for sure. The sensor is super generic looking with a part number that comes up as being for a Range Rover.
Wallra- was your car a plastic manifold? I was seriously considering looking for a plastic set up but despite what everyone says I have not found any data that supports it being better than the early aluminum. In fact my guess is that the cost of manufacuring the aluminum runners and double butterfly manifold was one of the motivations to go to the plastic units. Now looking at Ubipa's TB I see how simple and clean the later model TB is and kinda with I had gone to the trouble to search one out. But saving my $$$ for ransant in the next few years.....
Pete
Pete, ask to Colin @ 9M about plastic Vs. aluminum mainfold.
BTW: if you want a plastic mainfold...... I have one.
yes my car was the plastic manifold. If you want my TPS setup I could give you a deal plastic manifold saves weight and run's cooler this is why every one run's with plastic
Thanks Wallra- I I like that idea cause the Clewett system is a nice bit of kit- I’ll drop your a PM.
Does anyone know if the the later TB and res full assembly will fit on the aluminum intake tubes?
Paolo- also thanks for the offer. I’ll ask Colin but recently have had trouble getting a response from him. Hopefully he’s just busy or taking some time off... From what I’ve read he does not the restriction difference between the aluminum and plastic to make any noticeable difference and that the bottleneck was elsewhere. As I recall he got 375hp on his dyno with either.
Pete - the plastic center will mate directly with the aluminum manifolds
Fwiw- on the high horsepower build we just did- the decision was made to use the larger oem RS plastic intake manifolds as opposed to the oem plastic. The difference btw the oem plastic and aluminum are minimal. But the later RS gives you much bigger stacks and tubes leading to the throttle body (or from) and can therefore flow much more air. The heads have to be ported to match obviously...
04-27-2020, 05:22 PM
