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Got home from work tonight to find my next swap project in my driveway... shipped from Germany in a trash bag. Thankfully it wasn't damaged, but I really wonder what the seller was thinking.
Question is... do I wait to blow up my stock transmission and then do the 01E swap? Or do I start a trans swap before I'm even done with the engine?
N/A 944 trans, send it! 951 trans, pull it now and sell it while it's worth money.
I'm always amazed at what some European sellers consider packaging. I thought it was bad to receive bumpers wrapped in trash bags! Can't imagine a trans!
Well...... The good news is my engine idles beautifully. 75-80 psi from the Aeromotive FPR, stock injectors, real basic setup. Had some issues wiring up the starter at first but managed to figure it out. I didn't use the starter listed in Mike's spreadsheet. Instead, I have one off of an Audi A3 which has 4 posts. From the stock NA early 944 harness, the small wire goes to the top small post on the solenoid, (Otherwise it'll just spin) big square flange goes on the left, the smaller-large wire goes on the right. Easy.
The belts, however.... are toast. I was a moron and didn't align the PS bracket correctly, in that it needed to be 'pushed' all the way back to align with the crank pulley, so the belts just smoked themselves and almost everything is now covered in a slurry of coolant, ATF, and rubber shreads from the belts.
My idler pullies are also not in great shape, so I'll be attempting to get all new stuff tomorrow and trying again with the proper pulley alignment.
Update: I now have all new belts and new tensioner mechanisms, and am in the process of installing everything now. Will update again later.
Update 2: I adjusted the power steering bracket, and the belts are happier. Engine runs great after plugging in the IAT and O2 sensors, doesn't die on throttle lift anymore, but I need to plug in the other things to make it complete I think. WOT lugs, so finding the 'sweet spot' is how I drive right now. Figuring out the coolant is tricky, and I will have to drop the pan to re-seal it due to leaks at a later date, but other than that everything works really well. Next weekend I think Ill be doing more wiring for gauges to monitor stuff, but Mike has been a huge help getting things going. May or may not have kept him up until 2 am one night, so I can't say enough good things about BBG's customer service.
Side note, PSA, make sure your lug nuts are tight. Thats all I'll say.
Last edited by senior_squishy; 08-01-2020 at 10:34 PM.
Reason: Update
Mike has been a huge help getting things going. May or may not have kept him up until 2 am one night, so I can't say enough good things about BBG's customer service.
N/A 944 trans, send it! 951 trans, pull it now and sell it while it's worth money.
I'm always amazed at what some European sellers consider packaging. I thought it was bad to receive bumpers wrapped in trash bags! Can't imagine a trans!
It's a N/A trans that I found on craigslist after blowing up my original while merging onto the highway. Although I don't want to ruin a perfectly good transmission, I'd actually like to see the difference in how the car behaves with the original and 01E.
Originally Posted by senior_squishy
Well...... The good news is my engine idles beautifully. 75-80 psi from the Aeromotive FPR, stock injectors, real basic setup. Had some issues wiring up the starter at first but managed to figure it out. I didn't use the starter listed in Mike's spreadsheet. Instead, I have one off of an Audi A3 which has 4 posts. From the stock NA early 944 harness, the small wire goes to the top small post on the solenoid, (Otherwise it'll just spin) big square flange goes on the left, the smaller-large wire goes on the right. Easy.
The belts, however.... are toast. I was a moron and didn't align the PS bracket correctly, in that it needed to be 'pushed' all the way back to align with the crank pulley, so the belts just smoked themselves and almost everything is now covered in a slurry of coolant, ATF, and rubber shreads from the belts.
My idler pullies are also not in great shape, so I'll be attempting to get all new stuff tomorrow and trying again with the proper pulley alignment.
Update: I now have all new belts and new tensioner mechanisms, and am in the process of installing everything now. Will update again later.
Update 2: I adjusted the power steering bracket, and the belts are happier. Engine runs great after plugging in the IAT and O2 sensors, doesn't die on throttle lift anymore, but I need to plug in the other things to make it complete I think. WOT lugs, so finding the 'sweet spot' is how I drive right now. Figuring out the coolant is tricky, and I will have to drop the pan to re-seal it due to leaks at a later date, but other than that everything works really well. Next weekend I think Ill be doing more wiring for gauges to monitor stuff, but Mike has been a huge help getting things going. May or may not have kept him up until 2 am one night, so I can't say enough good things about BBG's customer service.
Side note, PSA, make sure your lug nuts are tight. Thats all I'll say.
Why such high fuel pressure? Could the lugging be caused by over-fueling the engine? If you're running the N/A tune and stock injectors I'm assuming you only need somewhere around 43.5psi, unless I missed something previously? Does WOT lug from mid rpms? Or is it from low rpms in a higher gear? I know these engines have a higher power output than the stock N/A 944, however just about any engine can lug from low RPMs if the car is in a high enough gear.
With that said, I'm glad you were able to get it going, I'm sure theres a learning curve in figuring out how to drive the car with a completely different engine, but that's also the fun of it.
Brb, I'm going to check how my PS pump is mounted...
Also, I think his driveability issues are caused by not having all the sensors hooked up and the engine running in open loop. His O2 sensor is hooked up to the harness but the controller is not hooked up so the ECU still doesn’t know AFR. I think his coolant temp sensor is still unhooked as well. The open loop tune is pretty rudimentary.
It's a N/A trans that I found on craigslist after blowing up my original while merging onto the highway. Although I don't want to ruin a perfectly good transmission, I'd actually like to see the difference in how the car behaves with the original and 01E.
Why such high fuel pressure? Could the lugging be caused by over-fueling the engine? If you're running the N/A tune and stock injectors I'm assuming you only need somewhere around 43.5psi, unless I missed something previously? Does WOT lug from mid rpms? Or is it from low rpms in a higher gear? I know these engines have a higher power output than the stock N/A 944, however just about any engine can lug from low RPMs if the car is in a high enough gear.
With that said, I'm glad you were able to get it going, I'm sure theres a learning curve in figuring out how to drive the car with a completely different engine, but that's also the fun of it.
Brb, I'm going to check how my PS pump is mounted...
IIRC there are both DI and PI versions of the 07K engine. If he's running the DI engine, then that fuel pressure is fairly normal. DI pumps typically require higher fuel pressure feed from the tank than you'd be used to seeing from a normal low pressure PI pump/regulator like we have in the 944/951. If VAG uses both DI and PI powertrains in different variants of the same model then I wouldn't be surprised if they just used the same fuel tank pump module in all variants as they more than likely share the same platform and doing so saves cost. So maybe all 07K engines share the same fuel pressure feed from the tank regardless of DI or PI. If so 75-80psi doesn't seem too unreasonable regardless of fuel injection used.
IIRC there are both DI and PI versions of the 07K engine. If he's running the DI engine, then that fuel pressure is fairly normal. DI pumps typically require higher fuel pressure feed from the tank than you'd be used to seeing from a normal low pressure PI pump/regulator like we have in the 944/951. If VAG uses both DI and PI powertrains in different variants of the same model then I wouldn't be surprised if they just used the same fuel tank pump module in all variants as they more than likely share the same platform and doing so saves cost. So maybe all 07K engines share the same fuel pressure feed from the tank regardless of DI or PI. If so 75-80psi doesn't seem too unreasonable regardless of fuel injection used.
All of the naturally aspirated 07k's were PI. Those are generally what are used in swaps since the TFSI motors are still $$$$.
All of the naturally aspirated 07k's were PI. Those are generally what are used in swaps since the TFSI motors are still $$$$.
Copy that. So maybe it is a case of using the same "base" fuel pressure regardless of NA or Turbo. Does still seem a bit high, but anyway, seems like a possibility.
Out of curiosity, roughly what would one expect to spend for a TFSI motor? This swap intrigues me for potential engine swap for Gridlife GTLC competition. The 07K NA doesn't look like enough HP to be competitive and turbo is easier to tune to a specific power/weight as it can be done with calibration instead of restrictor plates.
Factory 07K fuel pressure is 75/80. We tuned it at 75. On the turbo setup with the larger injectors we tune to 43.5.
Originally Posted by hinton
Also, I think his driveability issues are caused by not having all the sensors hooked up and the engine running in open loop. His O2 sensor is hooked up to the harness but the controller is not hooked up so the ECU still doesn’t know AFR. I think his coolant temp sensor is still unhooked as well. The open loop tune is pretty rudimentary.
Ahh,I had forgotten that the factory pressure was that high. Still seems so odd to me. Also, that makes much more sense that he's running the open loop tune. I'd be worried about running that engine more than you have to without knowing coolant temp and AFR, could end back up in the garage for a little while longer than intended...
Lastly, what injectors did you guys go with for the turbo build? Tried searching the thread and saw some discussion but no concrete answer. I've looked at a few different options but I haven't found anything that quite fits what I'm looking for.
His O2 sensor is hooked up to the harness but the controller is not hooked up so the ECU still doesn’t know AFR.
That's a very valid point, and probably another reason behind the lugging... If it doesn't know AFR, and I give it more air than it thinks it needs, I can see how it would act funny. I'll try that.
Originally Posted by hinton
I think his coolant temp sensor is still unhooked as well. The open loop tune is pretty rudimentary.
This is also true. I'll check the harness for the correct plugs and see about getting those on.
Copy that. So maybe it is a case of using the same "base" fuel pressure regardless of NA or Turbo. Does still seem a bit high, but anyway, seems like a possibility.
Out of curiosity, roughly what would one expect to spend for a TFSI motor? This swap intrigues me for potential engine swap for Gridlife GTLC competition. The 07K NA doesn't look like enough HP to be competitive and turbo is easier to tune to a specific power/weight as it can be done with calibration instead of restrictor plates.
I would just turbo a PI N/A motor (like Alan and others are doing). That's how most people perform turbo 07k swaps. The TFSI engines would require a lot more money in engine management to be able to control the DI system (Syvecs has been done on some TTRS/RS3's on the 07k evo engine).
For the 1st gen TFSI 07k you're probably looking at $5k+ or so and 2nd gen 07k evo is probably around $10k still. Not too many have ended up at recyclers yet.
I have a set of 6 of the extended nozzle injectors like Mike linked above, in 56lb flavor, good used condition. They have the Bosch Jetronic connector.
If someone wanted them I would ask maybe $200 shipped for all 6 in the USA.
Rough math says those should be good for about 500hp on a 07K.
07-31-2020, 07:47 PM
