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My car also has manual steering, I pulled apart an ebay AC compressor and just mounted the front half with the stock VW pulley to hold the place and make the belt routing complete.
That’s a good idea as well, had not considered that. Can you share pictures?
Absolutely amazing guys. Sounds great even at idle, but I can't wait to hear that turbo on the dyno! Really interested in what kind of numbers you get from it. That video was certainly some motivation for me to spend some more time in the garage!
Last edited by EastEnd944; 08-02-2020 at 07:08 PM.
Also, Mike you mentioned making a video going over everything with the build. Would you be willing to make a quick video of what needs to connect where on the cooling system? I don't need specific hose part numbers, I'm just a bit lost on where these connections need to be made.
Also, Mike you mentioned making a video going over everything with the build. Would you be willing to make a quick video of what needs to connect where on the cooling system? I don't need specific hose part numbers, I'm just a bit lost on where these connections need to be made.
I think it would be safe to say most of us are using a 4-port bypass style heater valve, for those of us keeping heat, correct?
Pretty sure we went over that a while ago but I could be wrong.
I am retaining heat, but couldn’t find a place to mount the 4- port valve. So I picked up a TTRS stat housing, which has the extra bypass separate from the heater built in as a separate circuit. Now I’m running the stock 944 heater cutoff valve and just have two pipes coming from the back of the head.
Here are schematics, first from Audi and second how my car is plumbed.
Adding a little additional detail to Mike's post about cooling system setups. Sorry, no diagrams yet... Mike has locked me in the garage until I get my car on the dyno.
All Cars
- Largest fitting on rear coolant flange -> upper radiator port (there are some formed hoses I found that work awesome for this, snaking around the firewall and steering shaft without rubbing on anything) Here it is: Dayco 72365 will get you most of the way from the back of the engine up to the radiator. Depending on what radiator you're running, you will probably need an adapter and a second hose to finish the run. I used a billet aluminum 1-1/4" coupler made by ICT Billet, with Gates heat shrink hose clamps, since there's no reason to pull this splice apart for service.
- Lower radiator port -> thermostat neck (another formed hose, I will update here when I find the part number) Here it is: Dayco 72193.
- Steam vent (smallest port on rear flange) -> small vertical port on back of expansion tank (I used a piece of 6mm or 7mm ID silicone hose for this).
- Cap the 3/4" port on the OE thermostat housing (I bought a set of coolant bypass caps from an auto parts store, and put silicone on a small one to push inside the port, and then hose clamped a 3/4" cap on the outside.)
- And, pick one of the following options:
Option 1. No heat and no water-cooled turbo
3/4” outlet on rear flange -> thermostat housing bypass fitting*
Option 2. With heat and no water-cooled turbo
3/4” outlet on rear flange -> 3/4" inlet in heater valve (GM 12380318)**
3/4" and 5/8" fittings on heater valve -> heater core ports
5/8" outlet of heater valve -> thermostat housing bypass fitting*
Option 3. No heat and with water-cooled turbo 3/4" outlet on rear flange -> 5/8" x 5/8" x 3/8" tee (Dorman 47147) Water outlet on oil filter block -> turbo water inlet
Turbo water outlet -> 3/8" port on tee 5/8" port on tee -> thermostat housing bypass fitting*
Option 4. With heat and water-cooled turbo
3/4" outlet on rear flange -> 3/4" inlet in heater valve (GM part # 12380318)** 3/4" and 5/8" fittings on heater valve -> heater core ports
5/8" outlet of heater valve -> 5/8" x 5/8" x 3/8" tee (Dorman 47147)
Water outlet on oil filter block -> turbo water inlet
Turbo water outlet -> 3/8" port on tee
5/8" port on tee -> thermostat housing bypass fitting*
* bypass fitting can be made by cutting off the end of the steel bypass tube that mounts into the thermostat housing, and welding on a steel 5/8" barb fitting (such as Dorman 56152). See pic below. There is also a 3/4" version of this fitting, which may work better for options 1 and 3, along with the 3/4" version of the Dorman tee.
** GM part is vacuum actuated. Substitute a 4-port cable-actuated heater valve if necessary. I mounted mine above the bellhousing on the passenger side, right near the heater core ports on the firewall. You can easily find 5/8" and 3/4" formed hoses at your local parts store that will make the connections (I found a couple of short 90 degree ones). When they ask you what kind of car you need a hose for, just smile and wink.
06-05-2020, 08:50 AM
