Reimu

Been meaning to make a similar box, any tips?

URG8RB8

Very nice as usual! I truly like this idea, might just have to steal that one. Just curious about the sheet metal fabrication. Do you have breaks and the like or did you have someone make the pieces for you?

refresh951

Purchased .030" aluminum sheet from a local place called "The Metal Supermarket" for $30. I made cardboard patterns and then used my wife's woodworking scroll saw to cut out the pieces. Went through a few bladed The foam is high temp pipe insulation from Home Depot.

I tested it tonight and the sprayers come on once boost pressure hits about 7 psi via a Hobbs switch. Also, with the head lights up, it is very easy to refill the sprayer tank. The way I have it wired, it will be easy to switch the sprayer tank over to a window washer tank for long trips

URG8RB8

Very resourceful! Tips on making the bends? I have never tried any sheet metal fab work. I suppose aluminum should bend very easily, but do you need any kind of form?

What is the capacity of the spray tank? Any flow rate calculations? ie... Estimated time till empty? Nothing exact just approximations. Sorry if previously listed might have missed it.

Paulyy

You'll be able to bend that on a corner of a table with your hands. (wear gloves)

1mm & 2mm is easy to bend. 3mm gets harder,

refresh951

Yep, very easy to bend.

Also, Pauly I like the new avatar

Paulyy

Thanks Shawn, I took her for a wash for tomorrows drive with some locals p car owners. Had time to kill so I drove to one of my local beaches and pretty much for the first time, i actually played with the settings on my very standard digital camera. I might go and invest in a cheap DSLR camera just to play with.

Paulyy

I just like to add, you can buy aluminium blades.. or tin snips.

A plasma cutter might be a little overkill though.

URG8RB8

Sounds good, if I ever get to come home, this will go up on the list.

refresh951

Installing new 3" seat harnesses. When I bought my Recaro Evo 8 seats, I picked up a cheap set of 4 point belts from Ebay. I have never felt good about them so have been looking to upgrade. Got these RJS harnesses for $69/each at Summit. Great product for the price.

333pg333

Shawn as ever, much admiration for your workmanship and speed of resolution. One thing I'd consider re your I/C and ducting is an outlet in the hood. Bringing air into the I/C is one thing, having it exit is another. I'm not even sold that opening up the nose panel actually helps and I'll put my hand up as someone who has run vented nose panels. Reading a recent article where they were testing in a wind tunnel using a modified Subi running various splitters and air damns and the car was actually showing frontal lift, not downforce. As soon as they taped up all the cooler openings, the car started giving downforce. Of course you can't run with your heat exchangers covered up but they were demonstrating a point. If there isn't an outlet for the air to escape above the hood it will try to escape under the car and you can get undesirable results. If it can't all get out under there it can create a stall zone which might even show high I/C temps believe it or not. Sure, it's not a direct comparison with the Subi, but I feel it's worth passing on. I've been saying this for sometime and while I realise that it may not be so applicable to road cars on a consistent basis, it still could lead to some hairy moments at speed. Food for thought.

refresh951

Thanks for the input Patrick. Great point about outlets above the hood. I am definitely going to do some research on that. Maybe hood vents towards the back of the hood. Originally the nose panel vents were just aesthetic and I ran the stock flow ducting. I really made the change because I wanted to do some testing with the IC sprayer and what is nice is that I can easily go back. Also my car is more of a street car hot rod than track car and that definitely influences some of my decisions.

URG8RB8

I bought the D9 hood vents like yours and George D's based on your previous posts. I am hoping for function over form as I personally don't care for the look on a street car, but I think your air flow points are valid. I also like George's air filter location, but that is some serious fabrication. Shawn's turnaround times are incredible! He gets more done in a day than I can pay big money for and get done in a week at OK.
Still waiting for them to pull intake by the way. Should have sent my car to Shawn!

refresh951

Swapped the DME tonight and my electrical gremlin is still with me . Drove it for about 10 min and everything seemed good then the hiccup returned. Swapped KLR also with no luck.

By all indications the DME is resetting itself. You can tell by what happens in the logger and also when it hiccups it generally will not go into closed loop until I restart the car normally. I have done the following:

- Checked all grounds and cleaned them, no change
- Inspected, cleaned, and tested the battery power and ground harness, no change
- Replaced both the Speed and Ref Sensors and replaced the sensor harness (LR), no change
- Swapped DME relay
- Wired the DME power and grounds directly to the battery, no change
- Swapped the battery (thought maybe internal battery crack could cause blip in +12)
- Swapped the DME and the KLR, no change

My thinking is there must be some intermittent wire short that is causing the reset but I have ohmed out every wire and I cannot find anything. According to Joshua not very many things can cause a DME reset.

The car so wants to fly but I have to get this fixed before I can crank up the boost..

Anyone have any other ideas or thoughts?

gruhsy

Any chance you put a wire in the wrong location on the harnesses that connect to the DME and KLR? How are your coil wires with the new coil setup?

Loose wire on the DME KLR pins. I had two wires that the pins were not locked when I first tried firing up my car on the 3L. It was one of the reference sensor harnesses.