20v 5cyl turbo 944 project
02-11-2008, 04:08 PM
#106
Burning Brakes
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ls(x) series engine might be expensive overseas but my neighbor just sold one for 1K, with the harness and computer. I think it had about 100K miles. I can see how the audi engine might be so cheap overseas. I bet that quattro turbo 20v was really popular back then.
PS-That 20v fits great in there! Looking at all the space on the passenger side I wonder if the 10v really would fit. The 20v's are almost more expensive than 968 motors here in the US but I bet I could get a 10v for free. lol.
PS-That 20v fits great in there! Looking at all the space on the passenger side I wonder if the 10v really would fit. The 20v's are almost more expensive than 968 motors here in the US but I bet I could get a 10v for free. lol.
02-11-2008, 04:40 PM
#107
Drifting
Why do you Down Under guys notice such things?
02-11-2008, 05:27 PM
#108
Pro
Thread Starter
freight from the US is very cheap, and with our dollar an lsx is cheaper, and internals are cheaper etc... hence why I'm sitting here writing the papers to "biltilsynet" 
Btw , the same scrapyard wants ~ 2000$ for a 2,5 n/a engine with 280 000km on it`s back
.. go figure .
02-11-2008, 05:33 PM
#109
Rennlist Member
Heheheh yes that's a weird bit of trivia, but I always loved that TV show and you can still get a laugh today with all the double entendres.
I like the idea of this 20v 5 pot motor. I wonder if all the driveline components will hold? Hope so.
I like the idea of this 20v 5 pot motor. I wonder if all the driveline components will hold? Hope so.
02-11-2008, 05:42 PM
#110
Drifting
I would want a bigger pole as compared to Robin. Loved that trivia!
Pat,
Don't forget that the Doom 3.0 968 16 valve motor was reliable and was close to a 1000hp motor. You are on the right track. If you want an Audi motor, buy an older S4 and go to town. I just prefer to use a 951 type motor for a 951 car.
I had a 2000 Audi S4. Maintenance nightmare once I modded it. Sold it after a year. I did like the car though.
Pat,
Don't forget that the Doom 3.0 968 16 valve motor was reliable and was close to a 1000hp motor. You are on the right track. If you want an Audi motor, buy an older S4 and go to town. I just prefer to use a 951 type motor for a 951 car.
I had a 2000 Audi S4. Maintenance nightmare once I modded it. Sold it after a year. I did like the car though.
02-11-2008, 06:43 PM
#111
Pro
Thread Starter
I would want a bigger pole as compared to Robin. Loved that trivia!
Pat,
Don't forget that the Doom 3.0 968 16 valve motor was reliable and was close to a 1000hp motor. You are on the right track. If you want an Audi motor, buy an older S4 and go to town. I just prefer to use a 951 type motor for a 951 car.
I had a 2000 Audi S4. Maintenance nightmare once I modded it. Sold it after a year. I did like the car though.
Pat,
Don't forget that the Doom 3.0 968 16 valve motor was reliable and was close to a 1000hp motor. You are on the right track. If you want an Audi motor, buy an older S4 and go to town. I just prefer to use a 951 type motor for a 951 car.
I had a 2000 Audi S4. Maintenance nightmare once I modded it. Sold it after a year. I did like the car though.
Reliable you say ?
@ 333 .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_gOR...eature=related
02-11-2008, 06:48 PM
#112
Drifting
[QUOTE=blodstrupmoen;5093293]Yes , anyone seen a dyno sheet from this DOOM car?
Reliable you say ?
For a race motor, yes. It won every PCA event it entered until it was outlawed to run in PCA events at any level. This was OT, so I'll shut up.
Reliable you say ?
For a race motor, yes. It won every PCA event it entered until it was outlawed to run in PCA events at any level. This was OT, so I'll shut up.
02-11-2008, 07:25 PM
#113
Drifting
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/02...gra/index.html
OT, but Norwood Racing has built some pretty wild 4 bangers. This one is nuts.
OT, but Norwood Racing has built some pretty wild 4 bangers. This one is nuts.
02-11-2008, 07:34 PM
#115
Drifting
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/02...gra/index.html
OT, but Norwood Racing has built some pretty wild 4 bangers. This one is nuts.
OT, but Norwood Racing has built some pretty wild 4 bangers. This one is nuts.
02-15-2008, 12:01 PM
#116
Race Car
reviving an old thread here
does anyone know whether teh bellhousing or torque tube would possibly match up since 944 arre somewhat Audi based??
Also is this the engine that would be found in the 500 turbo models?? Those are pretty common around here for little $$.
After reading and thinking this may be a good option for my gold car.
TIA
does anyone know whether teh bellhousing or torque tube would possibly match up since 944 arre somewhat Audi based??
Also is this the engine that would be found in the 500 turbo models?? Those are pretty common around here for little $$.
After reading and thinking this may be a good option for my gold car.
TIA
02-15-2008, 01:08 PM
#117
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The 20v Turbo is not super common around here. The 10v is. You'd need a 1991 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo donor car, or an ur S4/S6.
There is a local guy with a seriously built ur-S4 making 400HP or so, but it's nearly always broken, or so it seems to me. If you want it to run I would suppose you'd be looking at making HP similar to a built 951 with MAF, WG, etc. If it was easy to get more displacement from the 20v it'd be more interesting but as it is I'd think it'd be far, far easier to do an LSx or 3L turbo buildup and make more HP more reliably.
-Joel.
There is a local guy with a seriously built ur-S4 making 400HP or so, but it's nearly always broken, or so it seems to me. If you want it to run I would suppose you'd be looking at making HP similar to a built 951 with MAF, WG, etc. If it was easy to get more displacement from the 20v it'd be more interesting but as it is I'd think it'd be far, far easier to do an LSx or 3L turbo buildup and make more HP more reliably.
-Joel.
02-18-2008, 09:56 PM
#118
Burning Brakes
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An UPDATE on the idea of using a 20V turbo.
I was at the german parts yard today and took a look at some Audi 5cyl's and compared them to a 944 bellhousing I was carrying around. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME!! The bellhousing of the 944 and the 10V or 20V audi's (turbo or non-turbo) have nothing in common.
Here is the interesting part, the TRANSAXLE of the 944 IS an Audi bolt pattern, as it looked to be an exact match to an Audi V8 that was sitting right next to it. Trouble is how do you make the bellhosing on both sides of the torque-tube the same? One side is held by 4 bolts, the other appears to be welded so the idea of this being an easy swap is SOL in my opinion.
Now for the fitment. 10V turbo's need 17-18in clearance on the passenger side from the crank center to the furthest edge of the passenger side of the motor. N/A 10V's need 16-17in. 20V N/A needs 15-16 inches, and late model 10V N/A with two piece manifolds need 15-16 inches. On the 944 N/A the distance from crank center to the frame rail is only 14.5 inches, gaining to around 16 near the top. NOT MUCH SPACE TO WORK WITH!! The turbo would definetly have to be relocated with custom fab work. The oil pan will have to be custom. The motor mounts will have to be custom. Overall I think if you got one for free it would be worth your time, otherwise it is hardly bolt in, and these engines had horrible injection systems, so you'll have to pop a megasquirt on it too. Sorry to rain on everyones parade.
I was at the german parts yard today and took a look at some Audi 5cyl's and compared them to a 944 bellhousing I was carrying around. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME!! The bellhousing of the 944 and the 10V or 20V audi's (turbo or non-turbo) have nothing in common.
Here is the interesting part, the TRANSAXLE of the 944 IS an Audi bolt pattern, as it looked to be an exact match to an Audi V8 that was sitting right next to it. Trouble is how do you make the bellhosing on both sides of the torque-tube the same? One side is held by 4 bolts, the other appears to be welded so the idea of this being an easy swap is SOL in my opinion.
Now for the fitment. 10V turbo's need 17-18in clearance on the passenger side from the crank center to the furthest edge of the passenger side of the motor. N/A 10V's need 16-17in. 20V N/A needs 15-16 inches, and late model 10V N/A with two piece manifolds need 15-16 inches. On the 944 N/A the distance from crank center to the frame rail is only 14.5 inches, gaining to around 16 near the top. NOT MUCH SPACE TO WORK WITH!! The turbo would definetly have to be relocated with custom fab work. The oil pan will have to be custom. The motor mounts will have to be custom. Overall I think if you got one for free it would be worth your time, otherwise it is hardly bolt in, and these engines had horrible injection systems, so you'll have to pop a megasquirt on it too. Sorry to rain on everyones parade.
Last edited by pjburges; 02-18-2008 at 11:59 PM.
02-18-2008, 11:31 PM
#119
Racer
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ere is the interesting part, the TRANSAXLE of the 944 IS an Audi bolt pattern, as it looked to be an exact match to an Audi V8 that was sitting right next to it. Trouble is how do you make the bellhosing on both sides of the transaxle the same?
02-21-2008, 06:35 PM
#120
Burning Brakes
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Another update. Further junkyard research discovers that the 944 and 924 bellhousings are not the same. You will need to aquire a 924 bellhousing as this carries the audi I5 10V and turbo 20V bolt pattern. Now to figure out what clutch/flywheel parts will work... probably Audi clutch equipment.