Pauerman

Give Ferrea a call and talk with Zeek (ext 203) - nice guy and knows his stuff.

I using a 7mm stem, 48mm intake valve in my 2.7 n/a head. The cylinder head shop that worked my head used a Super Flow (model) valve for the intake and a 7mm, 40mm Super Alloy valve for the exhaust.

I bought these valves as blanks and had them cut/machined for my solid lifter conversion. The valves were $55 a piece.

Hope this helps.

Vic

Markus951

Few more thoughts to share: has any of the members have any experience with titanium valves? I found a good sourse for those. Company usually makes them for bike engines (16 000 rpm) but they can also offer a custom design for valves. Also do I need to do some modifications on the head to install Titanium valves? If the shaft is 7mm i will go for smaller diameter valve guide but does valve guide has to be made of titanum or can I use similar material as in stainless steel valve setup?

Also there are few material options to choose on the exhaust valve. My question is, what kind of temperature has to be handled by exahaust valve?


I also know that they have used those valves succsesfully on GT3 race car.

Some copy from they'r web:

Unlike common steel valves, the developed valve structure is made of new titanium alloy and has different microstructures in the head, in the stem and in the fillet portion.To provide top strength properties, the microstructure in the valve stem is a combination of three types of microstructures:

equiaxial
bimodal
lamellar


Such combination of microstructures conforms to loads nature in the valve head (cyclic alternating loads of impact nature with high frequency at the 600 to 850 oC temperature range, in some cases up to 900 oC). This results in increased reliability and failure-free operation of ICE valves, and increases the engine service-life.
In the fillet portion, there is a graded junction of microstructures related to the valve stem and microstructures related to the valve head. This allows to provide reliable operation of the valve fillet portion at the temperature gradient from high operating temperature in the valve head to operating temperature in the valve stem.


one reason why im concidering this is the price. Other thing is that I can lighten up valve train and I can still use stock springs with more agressive cam. Titanium valves should be nearly 50% lighter thant SS ones.. Any comments here?

M

Skunk Workz

Well...Titanium valves usually doesn't like really hard valve seats,from my experience...so steel inserts are a no-no unless you want to change to a new set of valves every 6000 miles or so... Neither do they like steel inserts because they just don't move the heat out of the valves fast enough.. (exhaust side).

I've also seen ti valves develop a "pie-slice"-shaped crack in the heads when they have run a few thousand miles. Full-on race use = Ti works well (if needed to wring out every last hp and changed after a set distance/hours of life),street car = stainless for longevity. Just my opinion.

Konstantin

@Markus951
I gave you all the infos I had on valves.
with less money than the original you could have a head that would be much better than any "do it your self and put togehther" head that you or anyobody else could ever build.
It seems to me that you do not want an engine that works 100% but you just want to play with your engines..
Remember this when your engine blows the first time.
first reliability, then power. Not the other way round.

Konstantin
PS you do NOT want to rev your engine so high.
If you do soon you will know why

Markus951

well im not planning to rev it more than 7000 rpm. And titanium valves seemed to be good option to lighten up valve train (thats what you suggested).

Place where I leave there is allmost noone to have the head done RIGHT! Ship it over to some other country is expencive. So I have to ask a lot of questions (what mihgt sound stupid for some of you). What else I can do to lighten up valve train? I cannot afford to **** up my cilinder head so thats why it has to be done right at first time!

Konstantin, please PM me more detailed information Exactly what would you do! Im planning to come to Nürburgring with local porsche club this May so my car has to be build by that time!

Markus

jimbo1111

A set of titanium valve springs and retainers along with a good cam will allow you to make power to 7k. A lighter valve assemble isn't needed when revving under 7k. If your looking for higher than 7200 rpms than you must move to solid lifters.

Barry Johnson

I had heard from a builder that ti valves are nice and light and all, but they don't last as long as stainless ones. Might be a better way to go using stainless valves for longevity and cost too? The F1 guys use ti valves of course.
Anyone else confirm this?

Markus951

Ok I got that, no need for them on street cars! So I stick with Stainless steel ones, for reliability!


Thanks for now. Engine will be takeon out from a car next week, after that I have the body repainted and engine rebuilded, balanced, new cam installed (hopefully). Ill update this thread with pics, what was inside of my engine, hopefully 1.8 bar of boost have'nt done any damage!



Markus

Markus951

Little update

Car is in pices. Engine is off, body is being prepaired for repaint. I am going to change the colour of the car, so a lot of work is included there. Interior is out car basically has wheels only + body, everything else is removed.

About my block, 1st cilinder was ****ed, thats why it smoked oil last season. Cilinder was elliptical so there where 2 options, to go overbore or replace a sleeve.

Now my block is being rebuilded 1st cilinder sleeve was replaced with porsche OEM aluminium sleeve, all the other cilinders where honed and alusil treated on the special company. Everything else was looking good

Now i am going to balance bottom end with crank pullye and flywheel, clutch assmebly. Pistons and rod's will be also put on the same weight group with 0.01g accurancy.

Cilinder head was looking good. I am installing 48mm 8mm shaft intake valves and have some mild port job done on the head! have to call to the shop it might be ready allready

My stock M030 coilovers are now rebuilded soon will be installed back to car.

I am also going for 18" Hollow Spoke wheels 18*8 on front with 50mm offset and 18*10 on rear with 47mm offset. 285/30/18 on rear and 225/40/18 on front!

Break calipers will get new paint + new seals.

Pics soon..


Also A company whos fuel management I am using has created plug and play full standalone system for 951. Installing a full standalone will take about 30minutes to 1 hour. It is using all the stock senors and wireing, as far as i know it's the first P&P standalone for 951...

951Boost

Got more info on this Markus, website etc???

Thanks

eospeed

Are you talking about the wolf EMS?

Olli Snellman

it's Finnish Tatech system. Saw today similar on one Finnish 951. Great system!

pk951

Markus951

I would be interested in hearing more about the sleeves you got from porsche oem.I did not think you could still get them.Why not go with steel sleeves less frone to get scoring in the cylinders, and pistons are cheaper to buy.

pete95zhn

http://www.tatech.net/

Markus951

Tatech specs:
Ignition
Direct fire for 4 and 6 cylinder (5 and 8 cylinders with special order)
Distributor ignition for 4,5,6 and 8 cylinders
EDIS-module support (ford)
Ignition advance control accuracy 1 degrees
Adjustable dwell time
Ignition maps on 500rpm intervals 0-13000 rpm
30 load points / rpm range
Gear-dependent ignition compensation map

Fueling
Up to 6+6 high impedance injectors
Up to 4+4 low impedance injectors
Secondary injectors control based on engine load
Injector control accuracy 0,01ms
Injection maps on 500rpm intervals 0-13000 rpm
30 load points / rpm range
Gear-dependent injection compensation map
Compensation maps
Water temperature
Intake air temperature
Cold start / hot start / cranking maps
Throttle pump effect maps
Battery voltage compensation

Additional functions
Start rev limiter
Anti-lag system: adjustable activating point/mechanism
Gear dependant boost control
Water injection control, based on engine load
Closed loop knock sensor ignition control
Adjustable EGT-based enrichening and ignition cut point
UEGO (wideband lambda) support, UEGO-based autotune for fuel maps
(requires AEM / similar uego-controller; sold separately)

Mandatory sensors
Water temp sensor: 0 280 130 026 (Bosch)
Intake air temp sensor: 0 280 130 039 (Bosch) Turbo applications
Intake air temp sensor: 0 280 130 085 (Bosch) NA applivations

Additional sensors (suggestions)
TPS: 0 280 122 001 (Bosch)
HALL-sensor (rpm and Home) 1GT101DC (Honeywell)
Ignition amlifier 0 227 100 203 (Bosch)
EGT sensor: K-Type thermocouple
Knock sensor: 0 261 231 006 (Bosch)
Lambda sensor 0 258 005 706 (Bosch) 4-wire
MAP-sensor: 3BAR (GM)
Wideband lambda controller: 30-2301 (AEM)

Demo Program http://www.sohva.org/~tikkis/downloads/Tatech.exe