Car running great now, Need Prescription for more HP now please
#1
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Car running great now, Need Prescription for more HP now please
So, we got our car running smoothly now. We have installed LR M-Tune along with the usual goodies (80lbs fuel injectors, 3bar fuel regulator, 3bar MAP sensor, larger exhaust etc.,), We also had Evergreen make us a hybrid K27/6 with clipped turbine. I guess my question is what exactly do I need to dial up the HP? Seems I need to up the pressure output from my hybrid KKK 27/6 right? How do I implement this?? What do I need (hardware) and what must I accomplish?
ps. What is the usual HP potential with our setup? anyone know?? Is 300-350 Hp reasonable with out current setup??
thanx in advance
Jaime
ps. What is the usual HP potential with our setup? anyone know?? Is 300-350 Hp reasonable with out current setup??
thanx in advance
Jaime
Last edited by ttAmerica RoadsterAWD; 03-06-2020 at 01:31 AM. Reason: more info
#2
Rennlist Member
So, we got our car running smoothly now. We have installed LR M-Tune along with the usual goodies (80lbs fuel injectors, 3bar fuel regulator, 3bar MAP sensor, larger exhaust etc.,), We also had Evergreen make us a hybrid K27/6 with clipped turbine. I guess my question is what exactly do I need to dial up the HP? Seems I need to up the pressure output from my hybrid KKK 27/6 right? How do I implement this?? What do I need (hardware) and what must I accomplish?
ps. What is the usual HP potential with our setup? anyone know?? Is 300-350 Hp reasonable with out current setup??
thanx in advance
Jaime
ps. What is the usual HP potential with our setup? anyone know?? Is 300-350 Hp reasonable with out current setup??
thanx in advance
Jaime
#4
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Ah, yes, we also plumbed in a wideband o2 sensor...check, we got that! So, this is where all the talk about manual vs electric boost controller. Can you guys recommend a setup (brand, model etc.,). What typical boost pressure will lead to about 300HP? ( guess we would prefer bigger HP in the lower end, not planning on high velocity racing, just a 944T with street attitude).
Oh, so all internals are stock, although we have fresh rod bearings and ARP head bolts and nuts to keep that head from moving......
thanx alot!
Oh, so all internals are stock, although we have fresh rod bearings and ARP head bolts and nuts to keep that head from moving......
thanx alot!
Last edited by ttAmerica RoadsterAWD; 03-06-2020 at 03:05 AM.
#5
Rennlist Member
What have you done to the brakes and suspension. You can go faster with a great suspension. Hitting the turns at a higher speed. Look into the MO30 type setup
#6
Three Wheelin'
Somewhere around 1 bar you could get 300 would be by guess.. When I had my car on the Dyno at 14 psi of boost it made 275 RWHP Basically Stock with good internals and a Staged Ex to 4" It was easily capable of making more but it is Pretty much a Track car and lives at the upper RPM range all day. So I made sure it was "fat" enough. My Guess is 1 bar is Closer to 300 RWHP I have a TIAL Dual port with the hoses and all I need to do Is reach over and give it a twist for more power. I must say this, I made and error one time and had the boost all the way up and The car felt like it was shot out of a cannon.. I Never went so fast on the back straight at Watkins Glen. WOW … But then it hit the over boost protection (which was set at 22psi) and shut down for 5 seconds before it came back to life. The power these cars make is very intoxicating... Its very hard always not to want more.
Another thing you can do is put the spec aluminum flywheel and pp in.. THAT makes quite a bit of difference The car will accelerate WAY quicker.. The downside is taking off from lights or traffic. Because there is very little reciprocating mass its easy to stall the car.. Takes some getting used to.
Another thing you can do is put the spec aluminum flywheel and pp in.. THAT makes quite a bit of difference The car will accelerate WAY quicker.. The downside is taking off from lights or traffic. Because there is very little reciprocating mass its easy to stall the car.. Takes some getting used to.
#7
At this point you basically need a boost controller. If your stock wastegate can hold boost well and steady. Than you should be ok. Try not to shoot passed 16-17 psi on pump fuel. Power will probably be around 310-320 whp.
You didn't mention if you have a cat bypass or not. With the cat you will be around 300whp.
You didn't mention if you have a cat bypass or not. With the cat you will be around 300whp.
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#8
Rainman
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fill engine bay with ingredients as desired, apply *** to seat twice daily for maximum effect
#9
Rennlist Member
I would highly recommend an electronic booster controller, wide band O2 and dual port wastegate. If you are going to run higher boost, this setup with an EBC is a must to save your engine/head gasket. With an M-Tune and the right EBC, you can run E85 and up boost to 20-21 PSI. I ran the M-Tune on E85 at 21 psi and got ~375 rwhp with a stock engine and a 27/6 hybrid turbo on my track car for 6-7 years with no issues.
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eman930 (04-02-2020)
#10
Drifting
I have a manual boost controller set at 15 psi max (mine peaks different depending on the weather, load, gear, etc). I measure this with an external quality psi gauge T'eed off the clear KLR line behind the passenger footwell.
I found a major bump in perceived power after I initially had it peaking around 12-13 psi. Big difference with a very, very tiny adjustment.
My buddy has a 951 with the Lindsey Boost Enhancer: it plugs into the signal line from the intercooler pipe behind the stock air filter and blocks the pressure signal until a user-determined psi. He has the stock CV--no increase in stock max boost--yet the car feels perceptibly as quick or quicker than mine without this Boost Enhancer. This is street driving.
Due to traffic, I hardly ever get to go past 120 km/h highway and 80 km/h city. I'm more interested in sub-3000rpm response. Over 3000 rpm, the car pulls strong, like even the stock does; it's a very brief pleasure. It's the sub-3000 rpm where I spend 90% of my time.... and where improvements matter most to me.
What I'm suggesting is by delaying the psi signal to the wastegate, you get serious jump in off-line acceleration and pedal response action. Even though I've upped my max boost, I am planning to add this device therefore running both the kn*b and the "delayer" (Enhancer).
I will go so far as to suggest that for street driving, the Enhancer may have more effect than deleting the CV and by keeping the CV--Porsche factory electronic boost control--you keep the benefit of max KLR protection... something I am leery to have lost, esp seeing how actual peak boost fluctuautes so much. Also.. I suspect we get bad gas sometimes esp. in the winter
PS.. the kn*b is a simple psi piece like you find on an air compressor and the Enhancer is a ball-&-spring type manual control
I found a major bump in perceived power after I initially had it peaking around 12-13 psi. Big difference with a very, very tiny adjustment.
My buddy has a 951 with the Lindsey Boost Enhancer: it plugs into the signal line from the intercooler pipe behind the stock air filter and blocks the pressure signal until a user-determined psi. He has the stock CV--no increase in stock max boost--yet the car feels perceptibly as quick or quicker than mine without this Boost Enhancer. This is street driving.
Due to traffic, I hardly ever get to go past 120 km/h highway and 80 km/h city. I'm more interested in sub-3000rpm response. Over 3000 rpm, the car pulls strong, like even the stock does; it's a very brief pleasure. It's the sub-3000 rpm where I spend 90% of my time.... and where improvements matter most to me.
What I'm suggesting is by delaying the psi signal to the wastegate, you get serious jump in off-line acceleration and pedal response action. Even though I've upped my max boost, I am planning to add this device therefore running both the kn*b and the "delayer" (Enhancer).
I will go so far as to suggest that for street driving, the Enhancer may have more effect than deleting the CV and by keeping the CV--Porsche factory electronic boost control--you keep the benefit of max KLR protection... something I am leery to have lost, esp seeing how actual peak boost fluctuautes so much. Also.. I suspect we get bad gas sometimes esp. in the winter
PS.. the kn*b is a simple psi piece like you find on an air compressor and the Enhancer is a ball-&-spring type manual control
#11
I thought these newer mafs had a boost limiter built in via the map sensor. I believe, but not sure that there is an 18psi limiter on boost. I haven't tested it yet.😁
#12
May want to create a post on the 944 fb community pages also. Extremely knowledgeable guys over there too.
From my reading a TIAL wastegate is the way to go and a TIAL bov will be able to handle boost over 20psi without leaking.
I just read an article stating b&b headers improve the midrange on our cars.
i have been running a ball and spring MBC at 13psi for 6 months now without issues. But I would upgrade to a EBC before chasing more speed.
I have Vitesse V-knock installed that is limiting my performance growth due to engine knock occurring at 4K rpm @80mph. Nice data to have and is helping preserve my engine life.
May want to look into data collecting as you increase power to make sure the car can handle it.
I think e85 and 21psi might be a direction to focus.
From my reading a TIAL wastegate is the way to go and a TIAL bov will be able to handle boost over 20psi without leaking.
I just read an article stating b&b headers improve the midrange on our cars.
i have been running a ball and spring MBC at 13psi for 6 months now without issues. But I would upgrade to a EBC before chasing more speed.
I have Vitesse V-knock installed that is limiting my performance growth due to engine knock occurring at 4K rpm @80mph. Nice data to have and is helping preserve my engine life.
May want to look into data collecting as you increase power to make sure the car can handle it.
I think e85 and 21psi might be a direction to focus.
#13
Drifting
Some systems rely on cutting timing or ignition or something like that.. but if you think about it, the stock system is pretty neat: you keep on driving while it adjusts the air accordingly. Too bad nobody has played with the KLR chip so we can keep the CV and adjust the stock limits
#14
Drifting
A system for collecting data is the best advice!! Not only can you monitor performance, you have invaluable diagnostic capability.. esp. if you get familiar with the baselines. My next investment will likely be the FTech9 DME with the OBD system he's developing. Amazing!
#15
Quit Smokin'
Rennlist Member
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There's a lot of outdated advice floating around in here.
Upgrade to a Tial wastegate, 38mm with adaptor plates, or an F46. Install an electronic boost controller.
You can run 18psi on an M-tune for street driving, no problem. It has a built in boost cut.
E85 and 20psi is where it's at on this setup. I forget how to do this on the lindsey version, probably just a combination of the dip switches.
A K27 #6 is likely going to be a choke point for your torque curve. I would consider upgrading to something like an ultraspool.
Don't mess around with lindsey boost enhancers, and stock waste gates. There are better things to spend your time and effort on.
Upgrade to a Tial wastegate, 38mm with adaptor plates, or an F46. Install an electronic boost controller.
You can run 18psi on an M-tune for street driving, no problem. It has a built in boost cut.
E85 and 20psi is where it's at on this setup. I forget how to do this on the lindsey version, probably just a combination of the dip switches.
A K27 #6 is likely going to be a choke point for your torque curve. I would consider upgrading to something like an ultraspool.
Don't mess around with lindsey boost enhancers, and stock waste gates. There are better things to spend your time and effort on.