Car running great now, Need Prescription for more HP now please
03-06-2020 | 02:45 PM
#16
Say.. have you ever installed the bleeder-type valve (ie. Lindsey MBC)? I would imagine a straight ball & spring would be better, like combining their 'enhancer' with the MBC
A system for collecting data is the best advice!! Not only can you monitor performance, you have invaluable diagnostic capability.. esp. if you get familiar with the baselines. My next investment will likely be the FTech9 DME with the OBD system he's developing. Amazing!
A system for collecting data is the best advice!! Not only can you monitor performance, you have invaluable diagnostic capability.. esp. if you get familiar with the baselines. My next investment will likely be the FTech9 DME with the OBD system he's developing. Amazing!
Ball and spring is a very simple design which I like and it’s all metal. No plastic diaphragms.
If I was doing a lot of tuning or messing with the boost quite often I would probably use a **** style over the ball and spring I currently have. I feel like the **** would be easier to make small adjustments than the ball and spring due to the size.
But of course I would go EBC if I’m getting into heavy modifications.
I have not heard of the OBD system that’s being developed. Link?
03-06-2020 | 02:57 PM
#17
Drifting
I understand the Vitesse stuff is great and John very good. Interesting.. thanks
Check out the OBD capabilities being developed! https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...nostics-3.html
Check out the OBD capabilities being developed! https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...nostics-3.html
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User 41221 (03-07-2020)
03-06-2020 | 03:08 PM
#18
I'm not sure how you can control the boost without an electronic control physically acting upon the air (ie. diverting it to the wastegate)? The stock CV does that... but a manual kn*b can't be told to adjust itself by the KLR. Perhaps I'm missing something
Some systems rely on cutting timing or ignition or something like that.. but if you think about it, the stock system is pretty neat: you keep on driving while it adjusts the air accordingly. Too bad nobody has played with the KLR chip so we can keep the CV and adjust the stock limits
Some systems rely on cutting timing or ignition or something like that.. but if you think about it, the stock system is pretty neat: you keep on driving while it adjusts the air accordingly. Too bad nobody has played with the KLR chip so we can keep the CV and adjust the stock limits
03-06-2020 | 03:18 PM
#19
There's a lot of outdated advice floating around in here.
Upgrade to a Tial wastegate, 38mm with adaptor plates, or an F46. Install an electronic boost controller.
You can run 18psi on an M-tune for street driving, no problem. It has a built in boost cut.
E85 and 20psi is where it's at on this setup. I forget how to do this on the lindsey version, probably just a combination of the dip switches.
A K27 #6 is likely going to be a choke point for your torque curve. I would consider upgrading to something like an ultraspool.
Don't mess around with lindsey boost enhancers, and stock waste gates. There are better things to spend your time and effort on.
Upgrade to a Tial wastegate, 38mm with adaptor plates, or an F46. Install an electronic boost controller.
You can run 18psi on an M-tune for street driving, no problem. It has a built in boost cut.
E85 and 20psi is where it's at on this setup. I forget how to do this on the lindsey version, probably just a combination of the dip switches.
A K27 #6 is likely going to be a choke point for your torque curve. I would consider upgrading to something like an ultraspool.
Don't mess around with lindsey boost enhancers, and stock waste gates. There are better things to spend your time and effort on.
03-06-2020 | 03:50 PM
#20
Quit Smokin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
03-06-2020 | 04:06 PM
#21
03-06-2020 | 05:36 PM
#24
Even though we reference it as a #6. Its really not. It utilizes a #6 hotside that is machined. i would say a volume measurement is more accurate. Than again , once a turbo reaches a positive pressure the hot side becomes redundant. As the wastegate relieves the back pressure anyway.
03-06-2020 | 06:30 PM
#25
Quit Smokin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Even though we reference it as a #6. Its really not. It utilizes a #6 hotside that is machined. i would say a volume measurement is more accurate. Than again , once a turbo reaches a positive pressure the hot side becomes redundant. As the wastegate relieves the back pressure anyway.
03-06-2020 | 07:54 PM
#27
Anything this person says about turbochargers should be quickly discarded much the same way an assisted living nurse discards the babble overheard while working in the psych ward. None of it is an accurate recollection of factual data posted online nor an accurate description of first hand experiences. Most of it is made up on the fly, pulling from old school RL dogma that is more than likely being misunderstood along with “back in my day” turbo experience to pretend to be relevant now. At the same time, he has demonstrated sheer ignorance regarding what is available for these cars in 2020. It’s not because of his intent, but because he is posting about something he doesn’t have the slightest clue about and will not accept the fact that he is not an expert on the subject matter.
03-06-2020 | 11:36 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
I have a manual boost controller set at 15 psi max (mine peaks different depending on the weather, load, gear, etc). I measure this with an external quality psi gauge T'eed off the clear KLR line behind the passenger footwell.
I found a major bump in perceived power after I initially had it peaking around 12-13 psi. Big difference with a very, very tiny adjustment.
My buddy has a 951 with the Lindsey Boost Enhancer: it plugs into the signal line from the intercooler pipe behind the stock air filter and blocks the pressure signal until a user-determined psi. He has the stock CV--no increase in stock max boost--yet the car feels perceptibly as quick or quicker than mine without this Boost Enhancer. This is street driving.
Due to traffic, I hardly ever get to go past 120 km/h highway and 80 km/h city. I'm more interested in sub-3000rpm response. Over 3000 rpm, the car pulls strong, like even the stock does; it's a very brief pleasure. It's the sub-3000 rpm where I spend 90% of my time.... and where improvements matter most to me.
What I'm suggesting is by delaying the psi signal to the wastegate, you get serious jump in off-line acceleration and pedal response action. Even though I've upped my max boost, I am planning to add this device therefore running both the kn*b and the "delayer" (Enhancer).
I will go so far as to suggest that for street driving, the Enhancer may have more effect than deleting the CV and by keeping the CV--Porsche factory electronic boost control--you keep the benefit of max KLR protection... something I am leery to have lost, esp seeing how actual peak boost fluctuautes so much. Also.. I suspect we get bad gas sometimes esp. in the winter
PS.. the kn*b is a simple psi piece like you find on an air compressor and the Enhancer is a ball-&-spring type manual control
I found a major bump in perceived power after I initially had it peaking around 12-13 psi. Big difference with a very, very tiny adjustment.
My buddy has a 951 with the Lindsey Boost Enhancer: it plugs into the signal line from the intercooler pipe behind the stock air filter and blocks the pressure signal until a user-determined psi. He has the stock CV--no increase in stock max boost--yet the car feels perceptibly as quick or quicker than mine without this Boost Enhancer. This is street driving.
Due to traffic, I hardly ever get to go past 120 km/h highway and 80 km/h city. I'm more interested in sub-3000rpm response. Over 3000 rpm, the car pulls strong, like even the stock does; it's a very brief pleasure. It's the sub-3000 rpm where I spend 90% of my time.... and where improvements matter most to me.
What I'm suggesting is by delaying the psi signal to the wastegate, you get serious jump in off-line acceleration and pedal response action. Even though I've upped my max boost, I am planning to add this device therefore running both the kn*b and the "delayer" (Enhancer).
I will go so far as to suggest that for street driving, the Enhancer may have more effect than deleting the CV and by keeping the CV--Porsche factory electronic boost control--you keep the benefit of max KLR protection... something I am leery to have lost, esp seeing how actual peak boost fluctuautes so much. Also.. I suspect we get bad gas sometimes esp. in the winter
PS.. the kn*b is a simple psi piece like you find on an air compressor and the Enhancer is a ball-&-spring type manual control
The boost enhancer simply allows the turbo to spool as fast as the engine will let it. The result is a sudden rush of power that comes on all at once, which gives you a good initial push in the back and makes the car "seem" faster. About 20 years ago I went with a friend to dyno our 951's. His was an S with a k26/8 and mine was a normal K26/6. We both would have bet money that mine made more power, because the boost controller was set like the boost enhancer to really shoved you in the back when it lit up. He made 305hp and I made 270, on the same dyno on the same day. A good electronic boost controller will give you the shove like a boost enhancer, AND it will let you set the boost curve to whatever you want. I love my original style Profec B -- the original kind with the big black box solenoid. Among other things, it allows to you adjust how quickly the boost rolls on so you can replicate the "feel" of the boost enhancer while still using it to actually control boost.
And, I can't comment on m-tune, but it's not true that most MAF systems only use part throttle maps (e.g. VR, Autothority, etc.). And, you are correct -- when the CV isn't used to control the wastegate, some other means of controlling it (boost controller, spring pressure, etc.) is needed to control the boost level. Even then, the rest of the KLR is fully functional and not bypassed.
Last edited by Tom M'Guinn; 03-07-2020 at 12:46 AM.
03-07-2020 | 08:35 AM
#29
Drifting
a 16 valve head. Even bigger turbo. Thor...or just an exhaust back pressure gauge so you don’t overcome the intake pressure causing reversion. Twin scroll exhaust would be the next best thing but you would need fabricated parts.
03-07-2020 | 09:50 AM
#30
Drifting
Illusion is more convincing than reality, eh?
I miss my '69 VW.. it had a 1600 with *single-port* heads which for some reason produced a lot more torque (not hp) than the later dual-port. That bug felt so peppy... so much fun. Sure, it wasn't going fast when you looked down at the speedo.. but in those days, I was always looking up and out to the future--and lovin' every minute of it.
My 951 is now pretty powerful but it's so smooth... the power comes on effortlessly and when I look at the speedo, I'm surprised I'm going that quick. But.. it just doesn't have the same effect as that '69....
Not me 
I miss my '69 VW.. it had a 1600 with *single-port* heads which for some reason produced a lot more torque (not hp) than the later dual-port. That bug felt so peppy... so much fun. Sure, it wasn't going fast when you looked down at the speedo.. but in those days, I was always looking up and out to the future--and lovin' every minute of it.
My 951 is now pretty powerful but it's so smooth... the power comes on effortlessly and when I look at the speedo, I'm surprised I'm going that quick. But.. it just doesn't have the same effect as that '69....
And, I can't comment on m-tune, but it's not true that most MAF systems only use part throttle maps ... the rest of the KLR is fully functional and not bypassed.