Porsche 944 Turbo restomod
#362
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Wow!! It still amazes me that these blocks are available brand new from factory.
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bobinnova (10-01-2021)
#363
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I wish Porsche would sell the fastener package alone.
#364
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Just ran across this thread and read the whole thing. Amazing.
With respect to wheels and a desire for phone dials, have you looked at the Augment versions? They have a number of styles available and are willing to make some custom sets for customers. They're on my win-the-lottery list of things to do.
Cheers
With respect to wheels and a desire for phone dials, have you looked at the Augment versions? They have a number of styles available and are willing to make some custom sets for customers. They're on my win-the-lottery list of things to do.
Cheers
#365
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#366
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I've bought all of my fasteners from Belmetric. They have every fastener I've needed so far. Quick shipping and good prices. And they have "yellow."
Now if I could just figure out the right sizes for all of the interior fasteners I need...
Now if I could just figure out the right sizes for all of the interior fasteners I need...
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bobinnova (10-01-2021),
DasSilberWedge (10-31-2021)
#367
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Beautiful block. I've got a spare engine that came with my car... One of these days I plan to rebuild it. I have no idea how much machining it might need and wonder... how much would I _really_ save over just buying a new block?
Last edited by Millermatic; 09-19-2021 at 08:38 PM.
#368
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Yes, I receive a shipment from Belmetric weekly and they are great but they do not have the all correct fasteners for the balance shaft housings, cam housing, main girdle, head or intake manifold.
#369
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#370
Burning Brakes
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Thanks
Mike G.
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Rob 3 (09-30-2021)
#371
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The bare 2.5 block, 944-100-960-00 shows up on the Sunset website so it seems Delaware's catalog still has issues and reverted to the incorrect listing. I've had this issue with them in the past, which is weird because they use the same web hosting service as Sunset, just different pricing.
#372
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Had the 3.0 crankshaft checked: zero wear. ![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
next step: order rods (Carrillo) and pistons with a 4.5mm higher piston pin.
I read that my choices for pistons are limited, because of the alusil bores.
Normally there is no contact between the piston and the bore, so why would it matter?
Isn’t it the piston rings that should be compatible with the alusil bore?
![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
next step: order rods (Carrillo) and pistons with a 4.5mm higher piston pin.
I read that my choices for pistons are limited, because of the alusil bores.
Normally there is no contact between the piston and the bore, so why would it matter?
Isn’t it the piston rings that should be compatible with the alusil bore?
#373
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There is contact (normally) of piston to bore in the skirt area of the piston. The silicon particles exposed on the surface of the Alusil are not only very hard but also abrasive. Any material in contact with that surface (piston skirts and rings) must be able to endure a sliding interface without sacrifice.
#374
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Thanks for clearing that up.[
QUOTE=Gage;17689238]There is contact (normally) of piston to bore in the skirt area of the piston. The silicon particles exposed on the surface of the Alusil are not only very hard but also abrasive. Any material in contact with that surface (piston skirts and rings) must be able to endure a sliding interface without sacrifice.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=Gage;17689238]There is contact (normally) of piston to bore in the skirt area of the piston. The silicon particles exposed on the surface of the Alusil are not only very hard but also abrasive. Any material in contact with that surface (piston skirts and rings) must be able to endure a sliding interface without sacrifice.[/QUOTE]
#375
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Scored a brand new crossover pipe ![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
![](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/sBMAAOSwKrZhUePS/s-l300.jpg)
For the engine build I will be more thorough in getting "it" better than the current engine. (the current engine was "a quicky" to get the car on the road again).
My AugTronic ECU uses a MAP sensor. Currently the MAP sensor is connected to a banjo bolt connection on the intake manifold. I believe it shares a connection with the fuel damper. I would like to use a dedicated line for the MAP sensor. I have an intake manifold lying around with two banjo bolt connections (in stead of the one connection on the older type intakes). That's already better, but I was wondering if it would be even better to place the MAP sensor directly in the intake manifold. Would heat become an issue? The back of the intake manifold (near the oil filler pipe) seems a pretty good location. It is however near the turbo and the downpipe.
Any thoughts on this?
Thank you
![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
![](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/sBMAAOSwKrZhUePS/s-l300.jpg)
For the engine build I will be more thorough in getting "it" better than the current engine. (the current engine was "a quicky" to get the car on the road again).
My AugTronic ECU uses a MAP sensor. Currently the MAP sensor is connected to a banjo bolt connection on the intake manifold. I believe it shares a connection with the fuel damper. I would like to use a dedicated line for the MAP sensor. I have an intake manifold lying around with two banjo bolt connections (in stead of the one connection on the older type intakes). That's already better, but I was wondering if it would be even better to place the MAP sensor directly in the intake manifold. Would heat become an issue? The back of the intake manifold (near the oil filler pipe) seems a pretty good location. It is however near the turbo and the downpipe.
Any thoughts on this?
Thank you