Frank@Work

I have several washers and have tried different configurations.
The problem is the amount of work I have to do to test a configuration and sensor gapping.
I have cursed the Porsche engineers a lot the past few weeks. I am almost reconsidering an LS swap to get rid of the Porsche engine.

Chris White

Hmmm...the drawbacks are that it easier to service and less expensive sensor! I have been making these for years...never had a problem.

PF

Please dont put an LS in that wonderful car!

Maybe you have the wrong setting on those little allen screws on the flywheel? Easy to forget to check this before assembling the clutch housing. If they portrude to much they will hit the crank sensor if you set the 0,8 mm at the starter ring. When I have done this and to avoid clearance issues I line one of those allen scews up so I can see it in the opening for the crank sensor. At that position I use an old sensor with a 0,8mm washer on and set the bracket (sensor with 0,8 washer now touching the little allen screw) T Then just to check that the gap is also correct for the speed reference sensor I measure the depth from the top of the bracket to the starter ring. If all is good that measurement minus the length of the sensor should be 0,8mm. This method has always worked great for me.
Just a thought

//Peder

Frank@Work

Thank you PF. I have been using a similar way of trying to get both sensors gapped correctly. To rule out a faulty bracket I even bought a brand new one.
I have had the car running, but heart a knocking sound. After checking a lot of possible causes for that knocking I have concluded it must be coming from a sensor. I think the reference sensor. Taken apart everything and will be re-gapping the sensors next weekend. Going for a front mounted sensor seems way easier!

PF

If you have done it like that you really should/could not be hitting the sensors?! Only reason I can think of is if one or more of the small allen scews on the flywheel portrude more than the one you set the sensor after. I think the WSM say 5mm portrution. Lets say one is at 6mm it will hit the sensor. Check.for marks on the sensor when you regap them.

Keep at it, you will solve it👍

//Peder

sm

Please remind us what flywheel you are using? Factory or aftermarket?

Frank@Work

It's a stock flywheel.

The next engine will be a 3.0 Turbo. I might consider an aftermarket flywheel for that build. Taking that into account, it might be smart to go for the front mounted sensor.

jjeffries

I just found this thread ... remarkable project. I maintain that the 951/S2 body style is the best of the whole 924/44/68 family, and I agree with the reader who earlier opined that GP White is the best color.

That lower balancer shaft seal ... I know it. I’m currently rebuilding a long-non-runner 87 924S, from stem to stern, using a replacement engine that I resealed while on an engine stand before going into the car. That particular seal seemed to go in a bit too easy but I was thinking all of the seals on the front of the engine were the same, so just proceeded, using CurilT. Well, once installed and started, the engine leaked right there, and a look at PET showed that each of those seals has its own part number.

Another order from my supplier and a quick re-teardown of the front of the engine got it all sorted ... and me educated.

Even my rather basic 924S is a pain in the ar$e for the access to that area behind the cylinder head and down where the reference sensors are located ... I know it’s significantly worse on a 951.

Thanks for documenting and sharing your work.

John

Frank@Work

Still chasing down an oil leak. :-(
The upper oil cooler line connection on the thermostat housing is suspect. Hard to get a spanner on the nut to torque the nut down.

Before I take off the tie rod on the right side of the car to create room for a wrench; is there a magic piece of tool with which you can apply enough force in the tight space available?

March 1st the season starts, meaning from March to December it's legal for my old timer to be on a public road. Before March I would like to have the car MOT'ed. The oil leak is the one thing from keeping me going to the MOT station.

968to986

I have some memory of cutting most of the handle off an adjustable wrench, then tapping it with a hammer. I just can’t remember if I also had to use a rod or an extension against the wrench to reach with the hammer. Not very helpful, I know!

Frank@Work

Thank you.
That is what I did, but the handle is too short and I do not have enough room for an extension. If I did there would be no need for cutting of the handle.
I probably will create room by taking of parts.

Frank@Work

I was able to tighten the nut of the oil hose a bit (after removing the sway bar, the right tie rod and turning the steer all the way to the left).
This did however not do the trick. :-(

Today I have removed the console for the vane type power steering pump. I use a manual steering rack, so no need for the console. Now it will become more clear where the oil is coming from. I'll have to wait because at the moment (and the next couple of days) the weather isn't good enough to open up the garage door. And I'll have to remove almost 40 inches of snow in front of the garage door.

I have cleaned everything up and I will be using a GoPro camera to record under the hood.
If I still won't be able to pinpoint the exact location of the oil leak, I'll probably go insane!

Chapman951

Would a

UV Fluorescente Leak Detection Dye be helpful?

Frank@Work

No, it would not. The origin of the leak will still be obscured from view.
Don’t forget; it is a very clean engine. Each drop of oil is very good visible. Just can’t see where the leak starts.

Before using fancy uv fluorescent dye I probably would try some talcum powder.

I guess the problem is the visibility. We’ll see in a few days.

Frank@Work

I think I’ve found the leak. Today I will take the lower balance shaft front cover of and reseal it. The oil is dripping from the back off that cover.

To get the cover of I have to take the whole distribution crap of. :-(
Well, let’s just call it lock down theraphy.