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I think I just broke the clutchfork.
I was preparing for first start. Was going to push the car out of the garage to start the car outside. Before pushing I did some checks and one of those checks was depressing the clutch pedal. I heard a "kling" sound and the pedal went straight to the floor and did not come up. After pulling the pedal up it won't go down fully.
I'm certain the "kling" sound was the clutchfork. I did not dare to check wat the problem is. Maybe tonight, tomorrow or sometime next week.
I was expecting some "pain" during first start, but I think this is amongst the worst possible pains after putting a new engine in a 944 Turbo.
Great progress Frank!
Love the look of the fuel system.
On the previous engine, way back on post 330, the timing belt was noted to be tracking rearward of a normal position. It appears to be in a rearward position on the new engine as well.
In one of the images of post 318 I can see that the tensioner sprocket is not correct for the turbo engine (it is from a 4 valve engine and too wide for the 2 valve belt), I believe this may still be the cause of the tracking issue. Also on that previous engine the balance belt tensioner pulley was tightened in the wrong direction. It should be tightened clockwise which will bring the upper run of the belt down and away from the waterpump pulley.
Great progress Frank!
Love the look of the fuel system.
On the previous engine, way back on post 330, the timing belt was noted to be tracking rearward of a normal position. It appears to be in a rearward position on the new engine as well.
In one of the images of post 318 I can see that the tensioner sprocket is not correct for the turbo engine (it is from a 4 valve engine and too wide for the 2 valve belt), I believe this may still be the cause of the tracking issue. Also on that previous engine the balance belt tensioner pulley was tightened in the wrong direction. It should be tightened clockwise which will bring the upper run of the belt down and away from the waterpump pulley.
I think I just broke the clutchfork.
I'm certain the "kling" sound was the clutchfork..
Is it possible for it to be linkage related? I'm thinking (hoping) that the slave cylinder push rod perhaps popped out of the fork recess or something similar.
Is it possible for it to be linkage related? I'm thinking (hoping) that the slave cylinder push rod perhaps popped out of the fork recess or something similar.
I'm gathering courage to put the car back on the stands and have a look. Maybe tomorrow, but probably next weekend. Will share when I know what happened.
I'll have to put the 20 year old Zacapa (celebration) rum back in the cellar for now. :-(
Oh, to solve the wastegate exit exhaust pipe conondrum I cut off appr. 5,5 cm of the end of the wastegate exhaust pipe and used a pipe expander to make the exhaust pipe round. Worked like a charm!
I think I just broke the clutchfork.
I was preparing for first start. Was going to push the car out of the garage to start the car outside. Before pushing I did some checks and one of those checks was depressing the clutch pedal. I heard a "kling" sound and the pedal went straight to the floor and did not come up. After pulling the pedal up it won't go down fully.
I'm certain the "kling" sound was the clutchfork. I did not dare to check wat the problem is. Maybe tonight, tomorrow or sometime next week.
I was expecting some "pain" during first start, but I think this is amongst the worst possible pains after putting a new engine in a 944 Turbo.
been working on these things since 2001, as a hobbiest and in a shop during college.. been lurking forums jst as long.. those forks are cast but still very strong, i dont know what pressure plate you are using atm but even a KEP single plate system for 540 ft-lbs is a cake walk for the stock clutchfork... edit, apparently this has become a common thing in the lt 6 years?
it's possible you didnt properly lock the clutch fork cross shaft, this is something i've seen before- sometimes the shaft is put in and the set screw is put in but on the round- not flat part... usually you get a few miles and exactly what you're talking about happens...
the cross pin drops down, the fork is only properly supported on one side, it fails to properly interface with the t/o bearing, and the push rod may pop past the fork..
there is not enough force to overcome misalignment and or the t/o bearing is no longer seated properly so the pedal doesn't come back, you pull it back but things are all diagnally misaligned so you can't push it all the way down without breaking something- usually the pressure plate spring fingers... good luck and don't worry, i first started my rebuild in 2010 and i'm at least a month from first fire
Last edited by 951dream; 04-16-2022 at 01:53 PM.
Reason: i guess i took too long a break from lurking
I have been driving the car last year with an (quickly rebuild) engine to get driving again. I used a new stock clutch, pressure plate and t/o bearing. Everything worked perfect.
The "old" engine will go to another project, so I tried to keep as much as (financially) possible with the old engine.
For the new engine I bought another new stock clutch set. I think I did put the shaft the correct way in the clutch fork, but I hope I didn't. As soon as I have the guts to have a look I will let you now what happened. Keep my fingers crossed it is an easy fix.
GFD smh and fml i just went through the whole thread and... i'm ready to push my project to the curb and just give up. my body shop didnt do nearly as well and in spite of buying everything new i can find and doing my best to build a new car, this is at a level i guess i havent had enough stability in my life (moved 6x and was partially paralyzed in 2015) or resources to get anywhere near this level and i honestly just want to give up... owning a tesla only compounds the problem
were you able to use the alternator cowl with the bigger turbo? i'm trying o figure out how i'm going to deal with the wires sticking up in front of the turbo inlet
were you able to use the alternator cowl with the bigger turbo? i'm trying o figure out how i'm going to deal with the wires sticking up in front of the turbo inlet
Yes, I was able to use the cowl. No problem at all. The turbo isn’t that big (Evergreen Raptor Turbo). I will check if I made a picture showing the turbo and the alternator with wiring clearly.
04-16-2022, 07:55 AM
