1978 5sp #107 just arrived - aka the restoration of Minerva
#646
Former Sponsor
Nah, totally not under control- I'm just apeing the WSM, but if pressing is not kosher and risks flat-spotting the *****, then am happy to learn better practices!
The one pic in the WSM that (I think) shows the bearing in situ looks like the Viton seal faces inward, so I installed with the steel seal outward. So the steel seal gets blown out when the hub Had a 50/50 shot of getting it right.....
The one pic in the WSM that (I think) shows the bearing in situ looks like the Viton seal faces inward, so I installed with the steel seal outward. So the steel seal gets blown out when the hub Had a 50/50 shot of getting it right.....
#647
Former Sponsor
When you speak Greg, you are not bothering. When some of us speak, (including me) it could easily be bothering. In fact, if you ask my 13 year old son, quite a bit of what I say seems to be a bother these days.
The way I do the bearings is a cluster. I may try the bolt. Aligning multiple pices while things are one temperature or another is a hassle, and there is a dent in the 78's fender to prove that this is still dangerous work as well. I moved the press outside (and it is now destroyed by weather, even in SD) to solve the first problem. The second is just mitigated by "try and be safe".
Which way is the right way? I think I have put the viton facing in, thinking it is more protected and will see less heat.
The way I do the bearings is a cluster. I may try the bolt. Aligning multiple pices while things are one temperature or another is a hassle, and there is a dent in the 78's fender to prove that this is still dangerous work as well. I moved the press outside (and it is now destroyed by weather, even in SD) to solve the first problem. The second is just mitigated by "try and be safe".
Which way is the right way? I think I have put the viton facing in, thinking it is more protected and will see less heat.
Probably just a case of overthinking something that doesn't matter....
However, this does bother me. It would be just as easy to put in two metal seals...or two rubber seals, when the bearing is made. It's really strange that the seals are different, if there isn't a specific reason/correct direction.
My logic is that the "rubber" seal is less likely to leak, so I face it towards the emergency brake shoes (so grease can't get on the shoes). If the metal seal sheads a little bit of grease, it can't hurt much, if facing in. I also think that the metal seal probably is more heat resistant than the rubber one and that the inner half of the bearing gets hotter than the wheel side of the bearing.....another reason I put the metal facing in.
I was hoping that someone smarter than I (not too hard to find that person) might actually know the real answer.
#648
That's the opposite of why and what I did. I thought the brake side would get hotter, so I moved the rubber seal to the inside. Hmmm. Well, I will be doing two more soon for the white car, so I will revisit this.
#649
Rennlist Member
Is one side or the other better protected from road grit? (Why didn't they seal both sides?)
#651
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm confident we'll be done by August, have been thrashing on all the major component assembly. I'd like to think it'll be largely done by the end of my spring break/bachelor week in April.
#652
Former Sponsor
Both sides are actually sealed. It's just that one side has a metal seal and the other has some sort of rubber seal. That's the mystery....which side faces which direction?
#653
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
So here's a pic of the VW415a tool where it would press (only) on the inner races. Its OD is 60 mm (2-3/8").
And then you push the hub in with 244b while supporting the whole hub carrier and bearing on the inner race by standing it on top of VW415a. So in both operations you're pushing on the inner races - I guess they figured if you're pushing straight you're distributing the force evenly enough onto every ball it's ok (?) With the hub carrier at 300oF and the bearing at 0oF, it did push in very easily.
And then you push the hub in with 244b while supporting the whole hub carrier and bearing on the inner race by standing it on top of VW415a. So in both operations you're pushing on the inner races - I guess they figured if you're pushing straight you're distributing the force evenly enough onto every ball it's ok (?) With the hub carrier at 300oF and the bearing at 0oF, it did push in very easily.
#654
But did you change temps for the flange press in? I was afraid to go over about 140 with bearing already in the hub to press in the chilled flange.
#655
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Nope, didn't even think of that- probably better to let the bearing at least come back to room temp before pushing the hub in, though it must absorb a lot of heat from the carrier.
Non sequitur: small hood pad courtesy of 928 Classics.
There is a ~11 mm periodicity between adjacent squares, FWTW.
Non sequitur: small hood pad courtesy of 928 Classics.
There is a ~11 mm periodicity between adjacent squares, FWTW.
#656
There was a front hood pad on the 78?
#657
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Yep- the emissions sticker is on the passenger side of the radiator in '78 (Not sure when it moved to the hood (?))
#659
Rennlist Member
#660
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
....
And then you push the hub in with 244b while supporting the whole hub carrier and bearing on the inner race by standing it on top of VW415a. So in both operations you're pushing on the inner races - I guess they figured if you're pushing straight you're distributing the force evenly enough onto every ball it's ok (?) With the hub carrier at 300ºF and the bearing at 0ºF, it did push in very easily.
....
And then you push the hub in with 244b while supporting the whole hub carrier and bearing on the inner race by standing it on top of VW415a. So in both operations you're pushing on the inner races - I guess they figured if you're pushing straight you're distributing the force evenly enough onto every ball it's ok (?) With the hub carrier at 300ºF and the bearing at 0ºF, it did push in very easily.
....
-------
Want to use the 'degree' symbol in text? This one: º It's ascii character number 167. To insert it on a Windows PC, press the key, and while holding it down press 167 on the number pad of your keyboard. Then release the key and there will be your symbol. This works only from the number pad numerals, not from the number keys at the top of the alpha keys area.
Demonstration: º