86 Cam end seal replacement best practices? What say the experts?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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I posted a similar question on my 86.5 Intake Refresh thread, but I thought I'd start a new one.
Here are two previous threads on this question:
Cam plug seals hockey pucks
How to remove the intake side cam seals
I'd like to replace the six 'hockey-puck' cam seals on my 86.5.
1) I tried tapping (actually, banging) the seals with a screwdriver to see if they'd "flip." Nothing.
2) I have been advised to drill them, then screw a screw into the hole, pushing the seals out in the process. I am worried about this method because I don't like the idea of metal shavings in the cam area, and I don't see a way to do this for the four rear cam seals.
3) I tried removing the cam bridge. I removed four allen-head bolts, then (as advised in one of the previous threads) struck it with a dead-blow hammer. Nothing.
![Name: 131008 Cam Bridge.png
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The cam bridge seems to be stuck on there as if it were welded.
Any ideas? Should I use a crow-bar? I am hesitant to put a crow bar anywhere near an aluminum engine.
Here are two previous threads on this question:
Cam plug seals hockey pucks
How to remove the intake side cam seals
I'd like to replace the six 'hockey-puck' cam seals on my 86.5.
1) I tried tapping (actually, banging) the seals with a screwdriver to see if they'd "flip." Nothing.
2) I have been advised to drill them, then screw a screw into the hole, pushing the seals out in the process. I am worried about this method because I don't like the idea of metal shavings in the cam area, and I don't see a way to do this for the four rear cam seals.
3) I tried removing the cam bridge. I removed four allen-head bolts, then (as advised in one of the previous threads) struck it with a dead-blow hammer. Nothing.
![Name: 131008 Cam Bridge.png
Views: 181
Size: 433.9 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/928-forum/768472d1381364943-86-cam-end-seal-replacement-best-practices-what-say-the-experts-131008-cam-bridge.png)
The cam bridge seems to be stuck on there as if it were welded.
Any ideas? Should I use a crow-bar? I am hesitant to put a crow bar anywhere near an aluminum engine.
#3
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Pry up with a flat head screw driver at the point where the yellow arrow is. Replace it with Loctite 574.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Sean,
Thank you very much for your reply.
I just went to the garage and tried to pry, but I am worried that I will leave a mark on the cam bridge. There is no seam whatsoever to wedge a screwdriver in- just a tiny black line where the two pieces of metal meet.
Is there some trick that I don't know about? I tried a variety of screwdrivers, including a micro screwdriver.
Thank you very much for your reply.
I just went to the garage and tried to pry, but I am worried that I will leave a mark on the cam bridge. There is no seam whatsoever to wedge a screwdriver in- just a tiny black line where the two pieces of metal meet.
Is there some trick that I don't know about? I tried a variety of screwdrivers, including a micro screwdriver.
#5
Former Sponsor
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Do not do that!!!!!
The belt is still on and the cam cap is attached to the rear section of the cover with one other bolt....plus the end of the cam cap is held captive inside that rear cover! You will need a new cylinder head if you pry there, now!
Sean thinks you are talking about the rear of the engine....but the picture is of the front!
#7
Team Owner
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put the bolts back in the cap,
then with a 1/8 drill drill a hole near the upper edge of the plug,
put a screw in with a washer
NOTE just drill through the plug, do not go too far.
Then using the screw pry the plug out ,
clean the bore,
some oil may come out.
Then with a small block of wood gently tap the new plug into the bore till the edges are flush with the cap
then with a 1/8 drill drill a hole near the upper edge of the plug,
put a screw in with a washer
NOTE just drill through the plug, do not go too far.
Then using the screw pry the plug out ,
clean the bore,
some oil may come out.
Then with a small block of wood gently tap the new plug into the bore till the edges are flush with the cap
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 10-10-2013 at 02:07 AM.
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#9
Team Owner
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if the cam covers are off simply remove the rear cam caps,
then the seal will fall out.
NOTE make sure to use a fresh razor blade held perpendicular to the cap seating surfaces so you can remove the old 574 ,
otherwise leaks may occur,
NOTE use a back and forth sweeping motion with the blade held 90 degrees from the surfaces.
clean with acetone then apply a lite coat of Loctite 574 to one surface then join them
then the seal will fall out.
NOTE make sure to use a fresh razor blade held perpendicular to the cap seating surfaces so you can remove the old 574 ,
otherwise leaks may occur,
NOTE use a back and forth sweeping motion with the blade held 90 degrees from the surfaces.
clean with acetone then apply a lite coat of Loctite 574 to one surface then join them
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Hi Stan,
Sorry to be obtuse about this (reading my posts in this thread, I seem very obtuse.)
The valve covers/cam covers are off. The front and rear cam bridges are still on. I can't seem to remove the cam bridges.
I can't seem to 'simply remove the rear cam caps.' They won't budge.
One thing to note: I have the "new style" cam end seals with the brackets that are a separate piece. Is it possible that the PO changed these, and somehow overdid it with the Loctite?
Sorry to be obtuse about this (reading my posts in this thread, I seem very obtuse.)
The valve covers/cam covers are off. The front and rear cam bridges are still on. I can't seem to remove the cam bridges.
I can't seem to 'simply remove the rear cam caps.' They won't budge.
One thing to note: I have the "new style" cam end seals with the brackets that are a separate piece. Is it possible that the PO changed these, and somehow overdid it with the Loctite?
#11
Team Owner
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if the bolts are out of the rear caps they should come loose the only thing holding them on is the cap bolts, maybe someone used a different sealant.
NOTE the RR /PS rear cap may have a harness clamp bolt in it,
this should be removed if the bolt is in the cap
put 2 bolts back in the rear cap a few turns,
find a piece of wood,
a dowel should work and gently try prying up on the inner edges of the rear caps they should come loose,
then follow the cleaning instructions.
NOTE if you don't use loctite 574 to seal the caps the heads then is could leak from the this area.
If the dowel wont work then get a wide faced hook attached to a small slide hammer,
put a rag tween the hook and cap, a few gentle taps should have it coming loose
NOTE the RR /PS rear cap may have a harness clamp bolt in it,
this should be removed if the bolt is in the cap
put 2 bolts back in the rear cap a few turns,
find a piece of wood,
a dowel should work and gently try prying up on the inner edges of the rear caps they should come loose,
then follow the cleaning instructions.
NOTE if you don't use loctite 574 to seal the caps the heads then is could leak from the this area.
If the dowel wont work then get a wide faced hook attached to a small slide hammer,
put a rag tween the hook and cap, a few gentle taps should have it coming loose
#12
Former Sponsor
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Rears should come off....no "hidden" bolts to mess you up, there.