aggravation

On my 1988 S4 I've already done the actual seals on the exhaust side that the end of the outer cam shafts pass through behind the sprockets but on the intake side, the inner two cams there are "seals" that are more like plugs. They are rubber coated metal caps that seem to be inserted just like a regular seal would be.
I've got the replacements for the job, 6 in all (2 in front and 4 at the rear because there are no sprockets at the rear).

The rubber coating just pulls apart and I don't want to pry them out and tear up the walls of the hole they sit in for fear they won't seal properly. I was thinking of a small self tapping sheet metal screw strategically through the face and then pull on the screw head to pull the seal out but where in the face of the seal is the right place to avoid hitting anything inside and how deep is too deep?

How do you remove the old ones?

Lizard928

take a screw driver and tap on one side, it will cause it to go crooked, this will pop out the opposite side allowing you to grab it and pull it out pretty much with your hands.

SeanR

If you have the cam covers off you can take out the 4 allen bolts that hold the assembly together, knock the bracket that holds the seals there with a dead blow hammer and insert the seals that way.

Much easier than trying to tap the seals out with it installed.

aggravation

OK, I tried tapping with the screwdriver, no joy. So I've removed the cam cover. I take it when I remove the 4 torx bolts, mine aren't allen bolts if I'm looking at the right parts, I'll be exposing the new seal on the exhaust side that I just installed as well as the seal on the intake side that I want to replace. Will the new seal on the exhaust side survive the removal and replacement of the bracket that holds them in place or should I order a new seal to replace it as well?

David L. Lutz

Not sure if your seal will make it, but those bolts are not torx! The are "triple square" and easy to strip. Once you get the triple square socket in the bolt give it several hard taps with a hammer before you try to loosen it. That will help.

Mrmerlin

whoa, dont remove the 4 camshaft cap bolts just loosen them about 4 turns, the end seals will then come out, wipe this area down with some acetone, install the new caps so they are flush with head then tighten the cap bolts, its pretty easy once the cam covers off, also install new cam cover seals and new spark plug seals and also use some sealant, Yamabond will work on the cam covers where the cam cover seal curves from the head surface (around the camshaft caps area)

David L. Lutz

I didn't realize I would need to use extra sealant on those gaskets?

Aggravation,

I have a set of new cover gaskets and new plug seals if you want for $50.00, and I will pay shipping. Let me know. (I just got them from 928inter. and they are extra and I don't need them)

aggravation

I appreciate the offer but I already have the parts on the way along with new tensioner pads!
No doubt someone will see your offer and realize just how cheaply he can now stop his covers from leaking and be able to re-paint them....

I noticed a dab of sealant on each corner of the gasket, I'll have to find some of this infamous yamabond or the equivalent before I re-install the covers I'm guessing red RTV isn't good for seals exposed to oil.

David L. Lutz

Yea, I haven't found the infamous "yamabond...honda bond..." yet either. It seems I have every other kind in the shop, but I guess next trip out thats on the list.

Mrmerlin

get the honda/yamabond at the motorcyclye repair shop, or you could use the Dow Corning 738 but that stuff is 65.00 a tube.
Motorsport in Utah has the DC and also sells the DC111 this is good for all of the O rings

Leon Speed

Stan, doesn't that break the Loctite seal under the bearing bridge?

Mrmerlin

Ah yes it does so some loctite 574 anerobic sealant should be used, the proceedure to replace these seals is in the WSM.
This is the same sealant used to seal the cradle to the block