dcrasta

I have a leak (Weeping) from the rear cam plug seals (the hockey puck looking seals). There are 4 on the rear and 2 in the front. I am wondering during the replace process is it something that can be done without removing the valve covers? Does the upper intake need to be off? Should this be done during an intake refresh or can this be done without going 'all in-' .

I have the plugs, the new ones do not seem to use the retaining arms that my factory plugs have. I was advised they could be 'pushed in' however when I was in the process of replacing my torque tube, I had intended to tackle this job, however the access seemed very limited (granted, my motor had rotated to the rear once the bell-housings were removed.).

Search seems to be conflicting. What I would really like is someone who has personally done this job to chime in on the tools and process of replacing the leaking seals.

Thanks in advance!

Hugh

PC-85-928S

I had mine done without removing the cam covers.
On my 85, I kept the older style plugs, and sealed them with Honda Bond.
There is a post about this, which I gave to my mechanic when he told me the covers would have to be removed to access.

davek9

Yes this can be done w/o removing eng and or Cam covers. If you don't have the ones with the seperate holding arms get them first. The front are easy just remove the two old, clean the seating surface and tap in the new ones.
The rear are more of a chalange
Remove the airbox, remove the old, I know on my'85 the right side was done from under the car. You will need a "lever" and a small block of wood to press them in, pushing use the block of wood on the Firewall to help lever them in.
note: I did not use a sealant, some do.

Hope this helps,

Dave

thezonster

Ive just done them on my 86.5 this week.
Went from old style seals to the new style and needed the new style seal retainers.
Did it with all the intake out for refresh.
I was able to get all but the right rear outboard seal so far. The rears are a challenge, but doable.
Fronts are very easy.
I was told to be sure and put a light coat of sealant on the seals before installing.
Planning on taking another run at that last one from underneath the car.

Don Carter

Harbor Freight has some adapters that let you put a 1/4" socket on a 10mm gear wrench. When I read Sean's post on these I bought them but have not yet done the last, hard to get to passenger plug, but looks like it may be the best tool for the job, otherwise you have to drenel away plastic to get a wrench on the bolts.

thezonster

Thats a good tip.
Thanks

jcorenman

This wrench helps also, GearWrench's "Quadbox" ratcheting box wrench.
The ratcheting "box" part of the wrench sticks up a bit, enough to get a bite on the recessed bolt head.

thezonster

Thats not working on the last one.
Ive got it.

Lizard928

I've done it many times and have gotten special tools for the job.

dcrasta

This all sounds good. I've been searching maybe my search string is bad.

I have that gear wrench .

What are the new style retainers? I havent seen them.

I was thinking of using high temp rtv however I have a big tube of Yamabond 4 . That should work pretty well.

Can I use the 'old' arms to hold the plugs in? I was told yes.

Thanks in advance.

thezonster

You will find that the new seals wont work with the old style retainers. I tried.

dcrasta

!Shaking my fist at pelican!
I dont see them listing the new retainers
Part # for them, ?

jcorenman

The cap/seal ("lid") is 928 105 215 00 and the retaining arm ("support") is 928 105 205 00.

davek9

If your Seals don't have the "arms" attached, then you already have the correct part, AFAIK there is only one type of Arm and it works with the "round" newer Seals. And yes a small 10 mm socket and also a gear wrench and a lot of #%$#@$%$ will help

firemn131

87 S4 Auto.
I just did the pass side rear plugs..I "custom " bent a short 10 mm wrench with 2 off sets..It worked great!!!

How about the front ones? Do they come right off too? Or, should i hold off until the T belt?