Transmission Replacement
#91
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Don't forget to rotate the quick fill connector (the fitting between the ATF line and the trans housing near the trans code numbers) such that it's pointing straight down. The check ball inside doesn't have a spring to keep it closed against the end of the fill fitting instead relying on gravity and fluid pressure to seal. If you leave it in the up position you won't be able to use it to fill the trans and you may run the risk of the ball blocking fluid flow.
Mike
Mike
#92
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Don't forget to rotate the quick fill connector (the fitting between the ATF line and the trans housing near the trans code numbers) such that it's pointing straight down. The check ball inside doesn't have a spring to keep it closed against the end of the fill fitting instead relying on gravity and fluid pressure to seal. If you leave it in the up position you won't be able to use it to fill the trans and you may run the risk of the ball blocking fluid flow.
Mike
Mike
#93
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Guys,
I can't find the torque values for the 3 bolts that tie the linkage bearing to the body. The bolts are 2 x M10x50 and 1 x M10x75. Rob's list has them listed but does not include the torque values. I can't find them in the WSM or my tech spec pdf either.
Thanks,
Craig
I can't find the torque values for the 3 bolts that tie the linkage bearing to the body. The bolts are 2 x M10x50 and 1 x M10x75. Rob's list has them listed but does not include the torque values. I can't find them in the WSM or my tech spec pdf either.
Thanks,
Craig
#94
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Guys,
I can't find the torque values for the 3 bolts that tie the linkage bearing to the body. The bolts are 2 x M10x50 and 1 x M10x75. Rob's list has them listed but does not include the torque values. I can't find them in the WSM or my tech spec pdf either.
Thanks,
Craig
I can't find the torque values for the 3 bolts that tie the linkage bearing to the body. The bolts are 2 x M10x50 and 1 x M10x75. Rob's list has them listed but does not include the torque values. I can't find them in the WSM or my tech spec pdf either.
Thanks,
Craig
#95
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No sous chef today.
Working solo on re-installing the rear suspension is like trying to wrest a moving octopus. Transmission still strapped. Suspension strategically bolted on on both sides and suspended. No work tomorrow. Lobster cook with friends by the lake for Mother's Day. Enjoy the day with your family.
Working solo on re-installing the rear suspension is like trying to wrest a moving octopus. Transmission still strapped. Suspension strategically bolted on on both sides and suspended. No work tomorrow. Lobster cook with friends by the lake for Mother's Day. Enjoy the day with your family.
#96
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Guys,
A question regarding the quick fill ATF connector on the passenger of transmission. What kind of pressure is needed behind the fluid to fill through here ? I'll be able to get in to it, but I was wondering if my hand levered bucket pump (that I have been using up to now with a metal 'U' end in to the reservoir) would work. Would it be just enough pressure to push the ball up, as I understand there is no spring on top of it.
Thanks
A question regarding the quick fill ATF connector on the passenger of transmission. What kind of pressure is needed behind the fluid to fill through here ? I'll be able to get in to it, but I was wondering if my hand levered bucket pump (that I have been using up to now with a metal 'U' end in to the reservoir) would work. Would it be just enough pressure to push the ball up, as I understand there is no spring on top of it.
Thanks
Last edited by MainePorsche; 05-12-2013 at 02:44 PM.
#97
Team Owner
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I wouldnt mess the with this port,
just fill it via the reservoir,
when its full run the engine for about 20 seconds, then shut the engine off ,
then refill,
do this a few times till you have a proper level.
The idea is to not let the engine run any longer than necessary till the pan is just about full,
this will prevent damage to parts of the transmission that have not gotten lubricated
just fill it via the reservoir,
when its full run the engine for about 20 seconds, then shut the engine off ,
then refill,
do this a few times till you have a proper level.
The idea is to not let the engine run any longer than necessary till the pan is just about full,
this will prevent damage to parts of the transmission that have not gotten lubricated
#98
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I wouldnt mess the with this port,
just fill it via the reservoir,
when its full run the engine for about 20 seconds, then shut the engine off ,
then refill,
do this a few times till you have a proper level.
The idea is to not let the engine run any longer than necessary till the pan is just about full,
this will prevent damage to parts of the transmission that have not gotten lubricated
just fill it via the reservoir,
when its full run the engine for about 20 seconds, then shut the engine off ,
then refill,
do this a few times till you have a proper level.
The idea is to not let the engine run any longer than necessary till the pan is just about full,
this will prevent damage to parts of the transmission that have not gotten lubricated
That is my concern as well. I thought by filling through this port lubrication would get to the 'innards' faster.
#99
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I have fill it via the reservoir last year. After an oil change.
Like Stan said, I started the car for few seconds few times.
It takes a bit of time that way but everything went very well.
Like Stan said, I started the car for few seconds few times.
It takes a bit of time that way but everything went very well.
#100
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Good evening. I am to familiar filling via the reservoir. I just thought of filling through the filling port. I had never used this port and was inquiring about any specifics.
#101
Under the Lift
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Just FYI, the fill port takes essentially no pressure. There's no spring in the valve, just a small ball bearing that is held down by gravity. I've not used it, not having the right fitting. Always used the technique Stan describes. Fill the reservoir to the top until it will take no more, run the engine for just a few seconds until the reservoir is sucked to just below the cold minimum line, repeat until close to 8 qt on a REFILL or 12 QTS on a bone dry fill. The last fill is to just above the cold minimum line (fluid and tranny should not be very warm yet). The take the car out for 10 minutes. Come back and adjust level to between to warm min and max lines.
#102
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Just FYI, the fill port takes essentially no pressure. There's no spring in the valve, just a small ball bearing that is held down by gravity. I've not used it, not having the right fitting. Always used the technique Stan describes. Fill the reservoir to the top until it will take no more, run the engine for just a few seconds until the reservoir is sucked to just below the cold minimum line, repeat until close to 8 qt on a REFILL or 12 QTS on a bone dry fill. The last fill is to just above the cold minimum line (fluid and tranny should not be very warm yet). The take the car out for 10 minutes. Come back and adjust level to between to warm min and max lines.
Good evening. As you and Mike (ammonman) have said that this is a gravity held ball valve thus meaning no real pressure need to be applied, I was wondering if securing some hose over the port would be adequate for continuous flow in to the transmission via this port which is the cooler return line.
I found this posting, and it sounds like it worked. I don't see why it shouldn't. I think for filling, it is a cleaner procedure without the risk of a piece of undercoating gunk falling down into to the reservoir and wreaking havoc in the valve body.
https://rennlist.com/forums/3366723-post19.html
#103
Former Sponsor
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Bill,
Good evening. As you and Mike (ammonman) have said that this is a gravity held ball valve thus meaning no real pressure need to be applied, I was wondering if securing some hose over the port would be adequate for continuous flow in to the transmission via this port which is the cooler return line.
I found this posting, and it sounds like it worked. I don't see why it shouldn't. I think for filling, it is a cleaner procedure without the risk of a piece of undercoating gunk falling down into to the reservoir and wreaking havoc in the valve body.
https://rennlist.com/forums/3366723-post19.html
Good evening. As you and Mike (ammonman) have said that this is a gravity held ball valve thus meaning no real pressure need to be applied, I was wondering if securing some hose over the port would be adequate for continuous flow in to the transmission via this port which is the cooler return line.
I found this posting, and it sounds like it worked. I don't see why it shouldn't. I think for filling, it is a cleaner procedure without the risk of a piece of undercoating gunk falling down into to the reservoir and wreaking havoc in the valve body.
https://rennlist.com/forums/3366723-post19.html
Attach hose and fill. Start the engine and continue to fill. This inlet and the filler cap are the same. One is hard to get to, you get burned from the muffler, and makes a mess. The other hits you in the forehead if you are not careful, isn't hot from the muffler, and doesn't make a mess.
You choose.
#104
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No pressure other than what it takes to push the fluid in. No spring. Checkball comes off the seat with very minimal pressure.
Attach hose and fill. Start the engine and continue to fill. This inlet and the filler cap are the same. One is hard to get to, you get burned from the muffler, and makes a mess. The other hits you in the forehead if you are not careful, isn't hot from the muffler, and doesn't make a mess.
You choose.
Attach hose and fill. Start the engine and continue to fill. This inlet and the filler cap are the same. One is hard to get to, you get burned from the muffler, and makes a mess. The other hits you in the forehead if you are not careful, isn't hot from the muffler, and doesn't make a mess.
You choose.
That is just what I thought.