Transmission Replacement
#46
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Well didn't get the transmission off today. Was about to separate from the TT and move back, but found not enough clearance aft. I had already raised and supported the TT. Was late in the day, so hung it up till tomorrow. Should have it off in 15-20 minutes.
Those top two TT/TC bellhouse bolts are tiresome. I was concerned about angling the posterior drive drain to low thus stressing components up front to access them. Did what I had to do I guess...
Mike, thanks for this information.
Stan, thank you for the communication. All worked and ready to remove.
Those top two TT/TC bellhouse bolts are tiresome. I was concerned about angling the posterior drive drain to low thus stressing components up front to access them. Did what I had to do I guess...
Slip the washers onto a screwdriver or other suitable rod. Heat with a torch until red hot, then drop into water. Annealing will remove the work hardening that occurs when the washer is crushed during tightening and return the copper to it's soft state. Now the washer can be re-used as it will crush some more when re-installed.
Mike
Mike
Stan, thank you for the communication. All worked and ready to remove.
#47
Team Owner
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this may be difficult to do BUT I would suggest to remove the TT and trans as one unit,
you may need another jack for this,
and to disconnect the bowden cable and housing from the quadrant ,
and then remove the bowden housing support bolt on the backside of the front bell housing
BUT the key thing at this point is not to damage the driveshaft and its very easy to bend it,
either when removing the old or installing the new trans.
the only thing that should be done is to remove the rear pinch bolt prior to dropping the assembly,
this way the TT will easily come off the the input shaft but still keep it supported so it wont bend while its being slid forward
you may need another jack for this,
and to disconnect the bowden cable and housing from the quadrant ,
and then remove the bowden housing support bolt on the backside of the front bell housing
BUT the key thing at this point is not to damage the driveshaft and its very easy to bend it,
either when removing the old or installing the new trans.
the only thing that should be done is to remove the rear pinch bolt prior to dropping the assembly,
this way the TT will easily come off the the input shaft but still keep it supported so it wont bend while its being slid forward
#48
Rennlist Member
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Exactly. First step is break axle nuts with big wrench. Lift car high. Unbolt axle/trans connections. Axles out. Carrier with brakes as one unit. Trans and TT as one unit. (omit axle removal if not swapping them, usually I'm swapping a set)
The four bolts linking TT to bell housing are easier than messing with the 6 at the TC TT in back. Especially trying to torque them back on reinstall.
Buy or rent a transmission jack. Have at least one floor jack ready.
Lots of other ways, all are more tricky without big shop tools and talented labor.
Sometimes I apply a floor jack beneath oil pan on engine just to help with angle when remating to bell housing.
No need to remove bell housing itself, btw.
Wise move to "call it" for the night. No matter which sequence you use to achieve removal, it will work better/safer when you are fresh.
And the new transmission is going to be worth every bit of this work
The four bolts linking TT to bell housing are easier than messing with the 6 at the TC TT in back. Especially trying to torque them back on reinstall.
Buy or rent a transmission jack. Have at least one floor jack ready.
Lots of other ways, all are more tricky without big shop tools and talented labor.
Sometimes I apply a floor jack beneath oil pan on engine just to help with angle when remating to bell housing.
No need to remove bell housing itself, btw.
Wise move to "call it" for the night. No matter which sequence you use to achieve removal, it will work better/safer when you are fresh.
And the new transmission is going to be worth every bit of this work
#49
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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In my communications regarding this job, I was told it safe to exchange the transmissions without the entire drive shaft attached. Greg had even given me an itinerary to follow. I had entertained having a concern about how low the transmission would have to be lowered while attached to the TT in order to release the top two bolts. When Greg and others instructed/commented this was the way this job is to be done my concern had faded.
I have a total of three jacks, one of which has a good transmission adapter attached. I am overly cautious for my safety as well as for the components of the car. That is why she was not lowered enough this evening after the torque converter housing was separated from the torque tube. This not lowering enough resulted in lack of aft clearance to slide the transmission back. This will be remedied in a safe fashion.
I have a total of three jacks, one of which has a good transmission adapter attached. I am overly cautious for my safety as well as for the components of the car. That is why she was not lowered enough this evening after the torque converter housing was separated from the torque tube. This not lowering enough resulted in lack of aft clearance to slide the transmission back. This will be remedied in a safe fashion.
#50
Rennlist Member
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Great. You should be fine. I've done it that way also.
Its just more risky and difficult to manipulate the TT / Box separation ( and reconnection ) on an angle under the car with the DIY equipment I have. Tough to get the wrench swing on retorque. I hate doing that with the trans on a severe angle on a jack, and the back end of the TT angled down.
Its just more risky and difficult to manipulate the TT / Box separation ( and reconnection ) on an angle under the car with the DIY equipment I have. Tough to get the wrench swing on retorque. I hate doing that with the trans on a severe angle on a jack, and the back end of the TT angled down.
#51
Team Owner
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just remember you should have atleast two people to remove the trans and a quality transmission jack that can be adjusted to hold the trans in a set place as its removed.
Goodluck with your project
Goodluck with your project
#52
Nordschleife Master
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I have had good success dropping the transaxle without TT (now two times) with this transmission jack from Harbor Freight. $80
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html
#53
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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I have had good success dropping the transaxle without TT (now two times) with this transmission jack from Harbor Freight. $80
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html
Great. You should be fine. I've done it that way also.
Its just more risky and difficult to manipulate the TT / Box separation ( and reconnection ) on an angle under the car with the DIY equipment I have. Tough to get the wrench swing on retorque. I hate doing that with the trans on a severe angle on a jack, and the back end of the TT angled down.
Its just more risky and difficult to manipulate the TT / Box separation ( and reconnection ) on an angle under the car with the DIY equipment I have. Tough to get the wrench swing on retorque. I hate doing that with the trans on a severe angle on a jack, and the back end of the TT angled down.
I don't make it easy for myself. I lower the trans unit to the bare minimum so I can manipulate the top bolts, and have the most minimal angle.
Without a doubt. My son, who is 14 and built like a young mustang is my sous chef. He helps on the larger jobs and is getting to know tools, electrics, and mechanics well. Also the trans unit is chained to the adapter.
Thanks again Guys.
#54
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Doing some tidying up before the transmission goes in this weekend.
As I determined during my diagnostics, the vacuum line to the transmission was not holding vacuum. I decided to replace the line as a single unit. I used an insulation for the line as pictured. It is from Pegasus Racing and I measured to fit. It has fiberglass as well as the orange heat resistant covering. It should suffice against the elements the vacuum line will be exposed to. I just snipped a piece for the picture.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3299
As I determined during my diagnostics, the vacuum line to the transmission was not holding vacuum. I decided to replace the line as a single unit. I used an insulation for the line as pictured. It is from Pegasus Racing and I measured to fit. It has fiberglass as well as the orange heat resistant covering. It should suffice against the elements the vacuum line will be exposed to. I just snipped a piece for the picture.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3299
#55
Rennlist Member
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I used brake line myself.
#56
Rennlist Member
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It will work for you, any way you chose to do the job!
Cut to the chase, it's gotta feel like a dream-come-true to be able to snag a brand new tranny for a 25 year old supercar.
Plus, Greg will no-doubt refresh the core. Good all the way around.
Cut to the chase, it's gotta feel like a dream-come-true to be able to snag a brand new tranny for a 25 year old supercar.
Plus, Greg will no-doubt refresh the core. Good all the way around.
#57
Nordschleife Master
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I am quite stoked.
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#58
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Well one down. One up to go.
Slight hiccup when I had it lowered on the transmission jack adapter. My son began to pull the jack before I had one of the locking nuts for the angling tightened. The unit slipped off the already lowered jack. Pan squashed.
Actually somewhat trying to get the unit off the torque tube.
Any hints/tips/recommendations when going to get the new one ON ?
Thanks.
Slight hiccup when I had it lowered on the transmission jack adapter. My son began to pull the jack before I had one of the locking nuts for the angling tightened. The unit slipped off the already lowered jack. Pan squashed.
Actually somewhat trying to get the unit off the torque tube.
Any hints/tips/recommendations when going to get the new one ON ?
Thanks.
#60
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Sorry, can't help you on this (never been there) but keep posting progress on your trans. change.
VERY interesting thread.
Your car will be a very unique car with this new trans.
VERY interesting thread.
Your car will be a very unique car with this new trans.
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