Transmission Replacement
#61
Nordschleife Master
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First time on this job for me as well. Regarding the transmission, it should be the last time as well. 26 years for the original - 26 years for this one and I probably won't be working on her any more. Job is going well. No real surprises. I am slightly concerned about getting the transmission back on the splines of the torque tube in kind of the same way, and with the same feeling as setting the cam timing when putting a new belt on - pretty sure I got it right - but what if I didn't - consequences are significant - you know what I mean... I'm sure you do.
Thanks again,
Craig
#63
Nordschleife Master
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Guys,
Just double checking. I'm just not 100 % on my going through my torque value list.
The value for the (4) 19 mm hex bolts which hold the central tube to the torque converter should be 58 Nm (43 ft lbs) ?
Just double checking. I'm just not 100 % on my going through my torque value list.
The value for the (4) 19 mm hex bolts which hold the central tube to the torque converter should be 58 Nm (43 ft lbs) ?
#64
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There is something Rob Edwards said about injecting silicone into the trans mounts to rejuvinate them?
#65
Nordschleife Master
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#66
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Hmm , not me. The only place I'd put silicone in a Porsche is in the passenger seat. And maybe the intensive washer reservoir, if it rained here. ![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I do remember something about mount rejuvenation. I would love to believe that given Mark Anderson's experience with having the lower control arm bushings re-rubbered, that the same thing could be done for these tranny mounts. Shame to throw them away!
Central tube to transmission is 43 ft lbs, as listed in the 90-93 Tech Specs book on page 46. Which is the manual transmission page, but I'd bet it applies to the automatic as well. But I'd be happy to be wrong if there's a different spec that I've missed.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I do remember something about mount rejuvenation. I would love to believe that given Mark Anderson's experience with having the lower control arm bushings re-rubbered, that the same thing could be done for these tranny mounts. Shame to throw them away!
Central tube to transmission is 43 ft lbs, as listed in the 90-93 Tech Specs book on page 46. Which is the manual transmission page, but I'd bet it applies to the automatic as well. But I'd be happy to be wrong if there's a different spec that I've missed.
#67
Nordschleife Master
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Thanks Rob. That's is what I use, and I wanted to get confirmation for the auto.
#68
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Hmm , not me. The only place I'd put silicone in a Porsche is in the passenger seat. And maybe the intensive washer reservoir, if it rained here. ![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I do remember something about mount rejuvenation. I would love to believe that given Mark Anderson's experience with having the lower control arm bushings re-rubbered, that the same thing could be done for these tranny mounts. Shame to throw them away!
Central tube to transmission is 43 ft lbs, as listed in the 90-93 Tech Specs book on page 46. Which is the manual transmission page, but I'd bet it applies to the automatic as well. But I'd be happy to be wrong if there's a different spec that I've missed.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I do remember something about mount rejuvenation. I would love to believe that given Mark Anderson's experience with having the lower control arm bushings re-rubbered, that the same thing could be done for these tranny mounts. Shame to throw them away!
Central tube to transmission is 43 ft lbs, as listed in the 90-93 Tech Specs book on page 46. Which is the manual transmission page, but I'd bet it applies to the automatic as well. But I'd be happy to be wrong if there's a different spec that I've missed.
#69
Team Owner
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Craig dont throw away the old trans mounts,
shove them in a bag,
and toss them in a box and hang on to them
shove them in a bag,
and toss them in a box and hang on to them
#70
Nordschleife Master
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Well Boys the transmission is attached to the central shaft. This was my biggest concern after getting the old one down. Getting the right heights and angles of both to allow for a clean glide onto the splines was my goal. The learning experience of getting the original off made this one a quick job. Started it at 6 PM and got three bolts torqued down by 7 PM. Of course my wife had to come while getting ready to torque down the fourth bolt and tell me it was absolutely necessary at this moment to go get the bee stacks so we could spin them tomorrow. This wasn't possible two afternoons ago or at any other time... you know what I mean. I'll finish the attachment tomorrow and now (at least in my opinion) the rest is cake.
#72
Team Owner
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Ahh I thought to ask,
is there a collar for the pinch bolt on the input shaft collar?
Sometimes they slide off and then there is no place for the rear pinch bolt to go
is there a collar for the pinch bolt on the input shaft collar?
Sometimes they slide off and then there is no place for the rear pinch bolt to go
#73
Nordschleife Master
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Just a few things I think to mention about installing a transmission while the central shaft is in place, and your car is on Liftbars. Have a good 1000 lb. ratchet strap for it has enough length to hook into both top holes of the central shaft and then go around the differential case, thus supporting the transmission from the rear. I found this reassuring in light of the slight backward angulation of the transmission jack needed to match the angulation of lowering the central shaft down. The strap was also helpful by ratcheting it up allowing the transmission to move forward in a nice uniform fashion while I could simultaneously observe and adjust for any height/angulation changes. Have the transmission securely attached to the jack platform so it moves as one. I used the chain it came with and a smaller 400 lb. ratchet strap. Also I used my mirror to ascertain the axis and clearance between the torque convertor bolt hole and bolt hole in the central shaft frame were perfect. I did not want to strip/damage the bolts. I was able to hand tighten the bottom two bolts down to the frame. This made those infamous upper bolts that much easier to get home. Of course you know you need at least two jacks, but the jack you use to support the central shaft when angling down does not have a lot of space to support the shaft - I mean the heat shield above the cats were detached and not removed so a big block of wood can not be used. I used hockey pucks in the round jack platform. You don't have much more room than that to support the central shaft with the heat shield still on.
#74
Nordschleife Master
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Not clear on this one. I have the clamp and the hex key pinch bolt but no other pieces.
On the input shaft collar there is what I would call a cut away space for the bolt to ride through.
#75
Team Owner
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on the input shaft there is a collar that the pinch bolt will screw into,
This collar is free to turn and could possibly fall off ,
SO once you have the TT bolted to the trans then it will have to come apart to fit the pinch bolt collar, if it wasnt installed or fell off during positioning
since there are not may pictures is a little bit harder to see what your seeing
NOTE you could have also done and alignment to set the torque converter drain to the center of the grate and then with the engine at TDC fit the trans to the driveshaft thus when the engine is at TDC then the TC drain can be easily accessed.
This collar is free to turn and could possibly fall off ,
SO once you have the TT bolted to the trans then it will have to come apart to fit the pinch bolt collar, if it wasnt installed or fell off during positioning
since there are not may pictures is a little bit harder to see what your seeing
NOTE you could have also done and alignment to set the torque converter drain to the center of the grate and then with the engine at TDC fit the trans to the driveshaft thus when the engine is at TDC then the TC drain can be easily accessed.