Guys,
The saga continues...
I am now finally beginning the removal of dead transmission to replace with the new one. Forgive me for some of the sophomoric questions I may ask. Here's the first one.

I am now taking down the cats to give me clearance, and my question is can I use a PB blaster type solvent to loosen up the connection between the pipes from the exhaust and the catalytic converters ? This is the union held by 13mm bolts via pipe clamp where there is a 'slit' on the pipe on the cat side of the union. My concern is leaving a potentially flammable residue on these pipes. Any suggestions on how to separate ? I'm applying thought before banging away at things.

Thanks in Advance
Craig

 

I think you will be fine. I still have to remove mine for the third time...but my last time I made a video of the job.



Might help some.

 

Thanks a lot Dean.
I have referred to it several times before starting the project. It is really very helpful.

 

That is a super helpful video Dean. I am going to do my torque tube next summer and this is invaluable to me.

 

Guys,
I am labeling all hardware (bolts, nuts, etc.) as I disassemble and labeling in ziploc bags. One bolt already snapped like a pretzle with minimal torque applied. When I go to replace hardware, any specific type to use, ie stainless vs. other galvanized types? Stainless is what it is, but I heard it is not as strong. Especially curious about exhaust clamp hardware due to heat factor.

 

ACE hardware should have all you need use carbon steel bolts,
not stainless.
Spray the PB on the hose junctions and then wiggle the rear pipes they will slide out ,
no worries about the PB catching fire unless you fill the cats with the stuff.
Use anti seize on all of the exhaust clamp bolts .

 

Stan,
Thanks.
Carbon steel for the bolts.
Anti-seize.
Cats down quite easily.

 

Remember to disconnect the O2 sensor from inside the car so you don't rip the cable, also replace it now if it's over 60k miles old.

Dave

 

^^^ I think he is leaving the cats attached to the manifold so the O2 can stay put.

Dave a great idea , as most forget this step,
only to find the front pipes hanging by a thread,
and thats usually enough to damage the wires thus requiring a replacement

 

Thanks Dave.
I'm only replacing the transmission now... I know... but can't swing the Superbearings and/or Constantine clamp right now.
For now it's just the rear take down from the rear pinch clamp to the differential.

 

And if you can find a 4' 1/2 extension and wiggly to get to the top TC nuts that will definitely make it easier.

 

Thanks Shark.
Already have one in the arsenal.

 

Not the Cats.
I meant the silencers in the rear.

 

Thanks Stan, I read ".. Taking down the CATS.. " and triggered on that
Also on the TT bearings, I too deferred that job when I did my 86.5 eng, and now have to do the Bell, exhaust again to drop the TT, oh well at least the bolts will be clean this time

Dave

 

Guys,
Removing calipers from rear brakes, and to no surprise the bolts are tough. The upper 8 mm bolt was no problem. For the lower one, I had to go with the device pictured. This bolt looked like it may have had Loctite on it.

My question is when replacing the bolt, what is its composition ? - Carbon steel, or what type ?

Also, another sophomoric question - When heating a bolt how long to apply heat ? How long after heating to retry ? I've never had to do this.

Thanks,
Craig