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If you are looking for a more durable alternative, than the factory tube I used a 60mm ID Silicone Air Ducting Hose. The silicone hose is quite a bit stiffer which makes it three handed job, but it's super durable.
If you are looking for a more durable alternative, than the factory tube I used a 60mm ID Silicone Air Ducting Hose. The silicone hose is quite a bit stiffer which makes it three handed job, but it's super durable.
Ten years ago I fitted 60mm silicone flexible hose for the alternator cooling and the outside temp sensor - It lasted 25K miles and 10 years, but by then it was falling apart. This time round I've fitted 60mm flexible aluminium corrugated hose (as used for heating boiler ducts and flues) as I think it'll be more durable. Plus one of the readily available plastic duct joiners, drilled to take the original temp sensor, makes a good replacment for the rusty steel tube joiner that Porsche fitted.
My temp gauge began behaving abnormally (wouldn't oscillate up and down the way they should...instead staying on first white line...except erratically when it all of a sudden decided to work and would swing upward suddenly at stop lights etc. to where it should be) and had been doing this for several months.
I decided before messing with replacing the sensor we would do a full refresh on the connections.
I found when examining the engine mating surface for the sensor it was not completely smooth; there were circular grooves on it so based on my success using fine abrasives to increase the net contact surfaces for the 2 main ground points I did same thing here. I didn't wind up getting rid of the circular grooves (they didn't completely cover the surface...but a lot of it)...so used 600 then real fine steel wool. Cleaned up sensor surface that meets with the car same way...treated the terminals to a clean with 600, then a douse of DeOxit and a good firm re-tightening...I did notice when I removed the sensor the mating surface on the sensor side was wet...so I gave it a little extra firmness when putting back on.
It has a new front engine harness...got through Roger, its such a nice upgrade; so that part of things I wasn't concerned about.
Of course a mission like this can't come without one or more side effects (happens to me anyways); this one positive in the form of a more stable volt gauge...stays dead in the middle for much longer before starting to drift lower...also doesn't seem to go all the way down to 12V line, like it would if everything is good and hot esp. if I'm running accessories.
.its cold here now so time will have to determine if the actual mission was successful.
I fitted these genuine porsche 928 mudflap/stonegards recently, I'd been after some for sometime but wasn't willing to pay the exorbitant price Porsche wanted for them, however perceverance paid off and I secured these at a good price.
I love the way they blend to the lower fender, only on the early cars as they look just right, the as opposed to some that have been fitted to the S4 model which look awful, back tyres are a bit wide but I'm happy with that. Ken
80 928S
5 Speed
UK
Last time for these was 2010 and at least 80k ago... passenger side done; took just 4 attempts of 3 potential orientations to install the rotor correctly...lesson learned...use camera next time.
Will be above 60 Wed. / Thurs. here...maybe last opportunity for a little while to have nice extended test drive. Old p.s. cap has large dark buildup (carbon ?) areas surrounding contact points. Old rotor tip mostly covered in maybe same dark stuff...not much clean metal showing....probably overdue for replacing.
First time doing these for me....not particularly difficult but fiddly...I loosened the clamp on the power steering reservoir to get a little room for that cap screw that sits right behind it (thanks Porsche). One tip I learned from doing passenger side already...spin the engine instead of suffering when doing allen bolts for the rotor.