So what did you do to your 928 Today......
#7351
I am not looking forward to this job, but I'll be pulling the dash for refresh anyhow.
Started the door switches today, something nice about the lights coming on when opened.
Broken Bit extracted.
New bits installed
Functional and tested
Started the door switches today, something nice about the lights coming on when opened.
Broken Bit extracted.
New bits installed
Functional and tested
#7352
Rennlist Member
Swapped a pretty good Kenwood KSC-SW11 for a very potent Cerwin-Vega VPAS12 12" 200W powered subwoofer. Louder than I need, said to have 30-150Hz response.
Next: A scheme to anchor it without screwing down the carpet to the hatch floor, and some wire camouflage.
#7353
I can finally stop asking so many questions....
Last edited by Mikebte; 01-22-2018 at 11:38 PM. Reason: Grammer
#7354
Drifting
Started my Top End Refresh today
Today was mostly getting organized and cleaning up a bit to make space for lots of parts coming off the engine. Below is a pic of the patient and the laptop with Dwayne's write up (showing the EZK connector). I tested the flappy diaphragm and the TPS. Flappy turned 90 degrees and held pressure (wondering if I should replace the 30 year old diaphragm anyway). The TPS idle position 0.5 Ohm reading for the EZK connector (pins 8 and 18) is exactly the same as Dwayne's, and with light foot on accelerator pedal it went infinite. Moving to pins 26 and 18 the WOT Ohm reading was 0.9 Ohms. All good. But the WOT reading remained infinite until the pedal was very nearly on the floor, so I suspect I need to adjust the throttle cable such that WOT reading changes from infinite to 0.9 Ohms at about 3/4 of pedal travel.
The clean before the mess. Service covers go on tomorrow.
The clean before the mess. Service covers go on tomorrow.
#7355
Rennlist Member
^^ Always replace the flappy diaphragm. You never know when that 30 year old rubber will fail, could be tomorrow or 30 years from now. Best not to chance it, and get a new one just to be safe. They aren't all that expensive.
As for my 928s the heads for the 81 went back to the machine shop from the porter and I wait to hear back about what else needs to be done. All I know now is that these heads will never fit a bore less than 100mm again.
As for my 928s the heads for the 81 went back to the machine shop from the porter and I wait to hear back about what else needs to be done. All I know now is that these heads will never fit a bore less than 100mm again.
#7356
Drifting
Adjusting accelerator cable fixed the WOT adjustment. TPS still clicks as it should.
Quick check of steering rack center position post Delrin bushings
yanked the air pump diverter valve and right side test port. Left is a little more challenging.
#7359
Crossed a milestone today
14,000 miles
Did a nice 100 mile round trip to Pinnacles National Park. It was a nice combination of straight and twisty roads. As I pulled into my driveway I hit a milestone for my car. I've now added 1,500 miles, dozens of hours detailing and countless smiles under my stewardship.
#7361
Drifting
Slow progress on the intake refresh..
Mostly I haven't had big chunks of time to work on the car, but removing some bits that I thought were going to be easy have put up a fight - particularly the injectors. However, I did find a way to improve removal of the injector harness fittings. I removed the rail clips first and then had to gently pry the rail off of the injectors. Just pulling off the rail was not working. Once the rail was off it was easy to use a small flat blade screw driver to slip off the clips that retain the connectors. The seals seem OK, but I'm sure they are hardened like most of the rubber I'm encountering. Not having luck removing the injector shown by just pulling up as Dwayne describes. So my plan is to leave them in the intake and remove them when the intake is off the car.
#7362
Rennlist Member
Mostly I haven't had big chunks of time to work on the car, but removing some bits that I thought were going to be easy have put up a fight - particularly the injectors. However, I did find a way to improve removal of the injector harness fittings. I removed the rail clips first and then had to gently pry the rail off of the injectors. Just pulling off the rail was not working. Once the rail was off it was easy to use a small flat blade screw driver to slip off the clips that retain the connectors. The seals seem OK, but I'm sure they are hardened like most of the rubber I'm encountering. Not having luck removing the injector shown by just pulling up as Dwayne describes. So my plan is to leave them in the intake and remove them when the intake is off the car.
#7363
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Spark plug boot pliers are great for injector removal (and spark plug boot removal...)
#7364
Rennlist Member
Jon, What's holding them in them in is the hardened rubber O ring. I just push the injector to one side and twist the injector right out. Keeping the injector in the hole will help keep debris out of the engine, though.
On another note, I removed the fuel tank from the Stepson for cleaning and refurbishment. After driving the car for a bit, I thought debris in the tank was clogging the fuel strainer, reducing my external pump output, and causing laggard acceleration. After the car is off for a while, it runs great again for a while, then the poorer performance returns.
I'm still glad that I dropped the tank et. al., but I don't believe the tank was dirty enough to cause the problem. I'm wondering now if my return line is blocked or my vent line is blocked or something.
On another note, I removed the fuel tank from the Stepson for cleaning and refurbishment. After driving the car for a bit, I thought debris in the tank was clogging the fuel strainer, reducing my external pump output, and causing laggard acceleration. After the car is off for a while, it runs great again for a while, then the poorer performance returns.
I'm still glad that I dropped the tank et. al., but I don't believe the tank was dirty enough to cause the problem. I'm wondering now if my return line is blocked or my vent line is blocked or something.
#7365
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Adirondack Mountains, New York
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I have the rear cross member all disconnected for my TT bearing replacement adventure - just the four upper bolts to undo. I'm following Dwayne's write-up, but it's not in optimum order when you're working with a lift - better to do all under-hood stuff, then mid-height stuff, then full-height stuff.
Question: the engine is supported by its two mounts plus the TT acting as a lever back to the transaxle - a tripod, essentially. How come there's no concern about kicking out one leg of this tripod? The engine is happy to sit OK on two legs, apparently. I'm a worry-wort, I know.
Question: the engine is supported by its two mounts plus the TT acting as a lever back to the transaxle - a tripod, essentially. How come there's no concern about kicking out one leg of this tripod? The engine is happy to sit OK on two legs, apparently. I'm a worry-wort, I know.