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Swapped a pretty good Kenwood KSC-SW11 for a very potent Cerwin-Vega VPAS12 12" 200W powered subwoofer. Louder than I need, said to have 30-150Hz response.
Next: A scheme to anchor it without screwing down the carpet to the hatch floor, and some wire camouflage.
Swapped a pretty good Kenwood KSC-SW11 for a very potent Cerwin-Vega VPAS12 12" 200W powered subwoofer. Louder than I need, said to have 30-150Hz response.
Next: A scheme to anchor it without screwing down the carpet to the hatch floor, and some wire camouflage.
That speaker has got to sound crazy, in that little bitty car.
I can finally stop asking so many questions....
Last edited by Mikebte; 01-22-2018 at 11:38 PM.
Reason: Grammer
Today was mostly getting organized and cleaning up a bit to make space for lots of parts coming off the engine. Below is a pic of the patient and the laptop with Dwayne's write up (showing the EZK connector). I tested the flappy diaphragm and the TPS. Flappy turned 90 degrees and held pressure (wondering if I should replace the 30 year old diaphragm anyway). The TPS idle position 0.5 Ohm reading for the EZK connector (pins 8 and 18) is exactly the same as Dwayne's, and with light foot on accelerator pedal it went infinite. Moving to pins 26 and 18 the WOT Ohm reading was 0.9 Ohms. All good. But the WOT reading remained infinite until the pedal was very nearly on the floor, so I suspect I need to adjust the throttle cable such that WOT reading changes from infinite to 0.9 Ohms at about 3/4 of pedal travel.
The clean before the mess. Service covers go on tomorrow.
^^ Always replace the flappy diaphragm. You never know when that 30 year old rubber will fail, could be tomorrow or 30 years from now. Best not to chance it, and get a new one just to be safe. They aren't all that expensive.
As for my 928s the heads for the 81 went back to the machine shop from the porter and I wait to hear back about what else needs to be done. All I know now is that these heads will never fit a bore less than 100mm again.
14,000 miles
Did a nice 100 mile round trip to Pinnacles National Park. It was a nice combination of straight and twisty roads. As I pulled into my driveway I hit a milestone for my car. I've now added 1,500 miles, dozens of hours detailing and countless smiles under my stewardship.
Mostly I haven't had big chunks of time to work on the car, but removing some bits that I thought were going to be easy have put up a fight - particularly the injectors. However, I did find a way to improve removal of the injector harness fittings. I removed the rail clips first and then had to gently pry the rail off of the injectors. Just pulling off the rail was not working. Once the rail was off it was easy to use a small flat blade screw driver to slip off the clips that retain the connectors. The seals seem OK, but I'm sure they are hardened like most of the rubber I'm encountering. Not having luck removing the injector shown by just pulling up as Dwayne describes. So my plan is to leave them in the intake and remove them when the intake is off the car.
Mostly I haven't had big chunks of time to work on the car, but removing some bits that I thought were going to be easy have put up a fight - particularly the injectors. However, I did find a way to improve removal of the injector harness fittings. I removed the rail clips first and then had to gently pry the rail off of the injectors. Just pulling off the rail was not working. Once the rail was off it was easy to use a small flat blade screw driver to slip off the clips that retain the connectors. The seals seem OK, but I'm sure they are hardened like most of the rubber I'm encountering. Not having luck removing the injector shown by just pulling up as Dwayne describes. So my plan is to leave them in the intake and remove them when the intake is off the car.
Jon, What's holding them in them in is the hardened rubber O ring. I just push the injector to one side and twist the injector right out. Keeping the injector in the hole will help keep debris out of the engine, though.
On another note, I removed the fuel tank from the Stepson for cleaning and refurbishment. After driving the car for a bit, I thought debris in the tank was clogging the fuel strainer, reducing my external pump output, and causing laggard acceleration. After the car is off for a while, it runs great again for a while, then the poorer performance returns.
I'm still glad that I dropped the tank et. al., but I don't believe the tank was dirty enough to cause the problem. I'm wondering now if my return line is blocked or my vent line is blocked or something.
I have the rear cross member all disconnected for my TT bearing replacement adventure - just the four upper bolts to undo. I'm following Dwayne's write-up, but it's not in optimum order when you're working with a lift - better to do all under-hood stuff, then mid-height stuff, then full-height stuff.
Question: the engine is supported by its two mounts plus the TT acting as a lever back to the transaxle - a tripod, essentially. How come there's no concern about kicking out one leg of this tripod? The engine is happy to sit OK on two legs, apparently. I'm a worry-wort, I know.
01-21-2018, 04:00 PM
