Two Valve (Pre '85) Update/Freshen
07-25-2010, 04:12 AM
#91
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Thread Starter
07-25-2010, 05:00 AM
#92
Instructor
Replace the pressure hoses. This hose is part of the hose that goes from the fuel filter to the fuel line in the wheelwell. This Kevlar covered, crimped Teflon hose is the best that money can buy. Light and absolutely bulletproof. The hose is then covered with a heat/abrasion resistant covering. Some people are cutting the factory crimps off of the fuel hoses and then replacing the hose with regular fuel hose and clamps. Here's the truth about doing that....if it worked, the factory would have done it and saved the cost of having a custom hose built. If it came with a crimped hose...replace it with that, or something better!
. I came to the same conclusion when replacing my fuel lines. This is an old photo, my engine is much cleaner and newer looking now....
07-25-2010, 02:34 PM
#94
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Thread Starter
J2 Precision Hose
www.J2precisionhose.com
Not on web site, but custom make them.
Have:
Clutch hoses. Make a line that will replace the metal line to the slave, to clear lowered pan, or hose to replace stock flexible line.
Oil cooler lines.
Brake line sets.
Fuel lines.
CIS lines/sets. Have all CIS lines to/from WUR, cold start, and fuel distributor.
Transmission lines (auto trans).
A/C line/hose to replace hose under C/D unit.
www.J2precisionhose.com
Not on web site, but custom make them.
Have:
Clutch hoses. Make a line that will replace the metal line to the slave, to clear lowered pan, or hose to replace stock flexible line.
Oil cooler lines.
Brake line sets.
Fuel lines.
CIS lines/sets. Have all CIS lines to/from WUR, cold start, and fuel distributor.
Transmission lines (auto trans).
A/C line/hose to replace hose under C/D unit.
07-25-2010, 07:26 PM
#97
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
07-26-2010, 02:37 PM
#98
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Day 2 Pictures:
After 70,000 miles and 27 years, probably good to start with a new O2 sensor. I'm a pretty big boy and I couldn't even budge this thing with a very long wrench. We sprayed everything we had at it and let it sit overnight.
Still nothing. Did manage to begin rounding it. Applied the "hot" wrench.
After a few heatings and coolings, the O2 sensor came out. The threads in the exhaust were not happy, so we ran out 18 x 1.5 tap through the hole.
Presto, two hours later, the 10 minute job of changing the O2 sensor was done.
Exhaust sample plug, before the cat. Rusted and broken off. Typical. Not stainless and no never sieze. Sorry about the picture.
Solution: Heat it until it glows, put on a really good set of vice grips and hope for the best. I'm not a photographer.
Presto. Broken piece came out. After retheading the hole with the handy 8 x 1.00 tap, a new stainless (coated with never sieze) plug is installed...you can almost see it, in this blurry picture. Another 10 minute job completed in a record 1.5 hours! And you wonder why estimates to do work change?
Twenty seven year old light bulbs in 27 year old sockets can't be good, for reliable operation. Solution...change every single bulb and fix every single socket.
Remove the sockets on the marker lights and scrub off the oxidation.
Attack the brass contact with a pencil eraser.
Bend the brass contact down to get a tight contact, install a new bulb and you are done...except for putting it back together.
Waste of time? Look at this selection of painted, corroded, blackened light bults, from the rear of the car. Perhaps we can sell them on fleabay?
After 6 hours (or so) of pressure washing (we have to collect the runoff from this...which adds hours of work) the chassis is aleady pretty darn clean.
Making installation of already cleaned wheel well liners (with new hardware) pretty darn easy.
Motor mounts and steering rack area, next.
The rack turned out to be a rebuilt unit, with the ZF rebuilt tag still on it. The boots are pretty good (we will put on new ones, since they do have cracks), so we decided to leave the rack and hope for the best. We lowered the rack to get to the motor mount hardware.
We noticed that the stock rack bushings we not properly installed (not bent over) and had slipped down.
So we decided to knock them out. (Punch is just holding the bushing, so you can see it...they knock out the other way.)
And replace them with a set of Delrin bushings from Roger at 928's R US. This will add better clamping of the steering rack and make the steering more positive, without adding much noise.
Used motor mount on left. You can see how much it has collapsed, after 27 years, by comparing it to the new mount on the right. Yes, I use factory mounts. Expensive, but can you really complain about a mount that lasted 27 years and was still supporting the engine?
If you have any rust on pieces, now is the time to fix it. I'm replacing all the hardware with anything that gets removed with replated hardware...might as well get rid of the surface rust, also.
Bead blast anything that is rusty.
And repaint with some high quality paint. My 7 year old Sony digital camera takes such good blurry pictures...
Steering rack re-installed and motor mounts done.
After 70,000 miles and 27 years, probably good to start with a new O2 sensor. I'm a pretty big boy and I couldn't even budge this thing with a very long wrench. We sprayed everything we had at it and let it sit overnight.
Still nothing. Did manage to begin rounding it. Applied the "hot" wrench.
After a few heatings and coolings, the O2 sensor came out. The threads in the exhaust were not happy, so we ran out 18 x 1.5 tap through the hole.
Presto, two hours later, the 10 minute job of changing the O2 sensor was done.
Exhaust sample plug, before the cat. Rusted and broken off. Typical. Not stainless and no never sieze. Sorry about the picture.
Solution: Heat it until it glows, put on a really good set of vice grips and hope for the best. I'm not a photographer.
Presto. Broken piece came out. After retheading the hole with the handy 8 x 1.00 tap, a new stainless (coated with never sieze) plug is installed...you can almost see it, in this blurry picture. Another 10 minute job completed in a record 1.5 hours! And you wonder why estimates to do work change?
Twenty seven year old light bulbs in 27 year old sockets can't be good, for reliable operation. Solution...change every single bulb and fix every single socket.
Remove the sockets on the marker lights and scrub off the oxidation.
Attack the brass contact with a pencil eraser.
Bend the brass contact down to get a tight contact, install a new bulb and you are done...except for putting it back together.
Waste of time? Look at this selection of painted, corroded, blackened light bults, from the rear of the car. Perhaps we can sell them on fleabay?
After 6 hours (or so) of pressure washing (we have to collect the runoff from this...which adds hours of work) the chassis is aleady pretty darn clean.
Making installation of already cleaned wheel well liners (with new hardware) pretty darn easy.
Motor mounts and steering rack area, next.
The rack turned out to be a rebuilt unit, with the ZF rebuilt tag still on it. The boots are pretty good (we will put on new ones, since they do have cracks), so we decided to leave the rack and hope for the best. We lowered the rack to get to the motor mount hardware.
We noticed that the stock rack bushings we not properly installed (not bent over) and had slipped down.
So we decided to knock them out. (Punch is just holding the bushing, so you can see it...they knock out the other way.)
And replace them with a set of Delrin bushings from Roger at 928's R US. This will add better clamping of the steering rack and make the steering more positive, without adding much noise.
Used motor mount on left. You can see how much it has collapsed, after 27 years, by comparing it to the new mount on the right. Yes, I use factory mounts. Expensive, but can you really complain about a mount that lasted 27 years and was still supporting the engine?
If you have any rust on pieces, now is the time to fix it. I'm replacing all the hardware with anything that gets removed with replated hardware...might as well get rid of the surface rust, also.
Bead blast anything that is rusty.
And repaint with some high quality paint. My 7 year old Sony digital camera takes such good blurry pictures...
Steering rack re-installed and motor mounts done.
07-26-2010, 09:59 PM
#100
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Yeah, since this is a 2-3 week project and needs to have an engine built, my son has got to draw the line somewhere. Luckily the remaining cosmetic stuff comes off easy and it can be done, later. Getting those pieces off the motor mount aren't quite as easy.....
07-26-2010, 10:22 PM
#102
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
07-26-2010, 10:47 PM
#104
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
He's working mostly weekends, when I have some time to "oversee" things. He's getting pretty good at tearing engines apart and cleaning parts, which he did do all last week. I did help him on Sunday...although I think I might make things go slower.
I will assemble the engine, when the time comes. Sorry, no pictures allowed, for that. Verbotten.
I will assemble the engine, when the time comes. Sorry, no pictures allowed, for that. Verbotten.
