Pyzik

I have to take apart the intake to adjust the throttle right?

PorKen

The idle speed screw can be accessed between the intake runners. (Black 1/4" handle and extension, 7mm socket, below.)

You may need a long handled screwdriver to gently move a vacuum hose aside to see it.

SMTCapeCod

^^^ More Blink'rs, please!

Or at least one or two for the O/C!

Pyzik

The screw won't turn anymore an the idle went down only to 1400rpm, the car is warm already

PorKen

If you also put in the 'rings, then it could be a plenum hose that is rolled over, and/or a loose clamp. Is the brake booster hose connected?

Loosen plenum side clamps.
Remove plenums.
Loosen runner side clamps.
(Install TQrings.)
Install plenums.
Center hoses.
Push each plenum toward the runners as hard as you can as you tighten the clamps.

Hilton

Just make one; Ken posted the simple circuit years ago here on the forums

Pyzik

It was doing it before I installed the rings, I will check everything again tomorrow if all vacuum lines are ok

SMTCapeCod

OK, you have a vacuum leak.
Does your AFPR pull a vacuum signal? Any chance the MAS isn't fully seated?

To adjust the throttle, you work with the accelerator pedal, or the threaded rod. To get it right requires a view on the throttle plate, so yes you would need to take the center section out.

But, we're on idle/CO adjustment.

Add some yourself before throwing elbows.

BTW, whats up with your headlights?

Temekun

Since you reset the brain by unhooking and resetting the rear ground I'm still betting that the refresh has left you with an air leak. I'd start with just making sure everything is seated and the clamps are tight and in place on the runners after that you can try the piece of rubber hose to your ear and move it around and listen for a specific spot.

And what are you doing with your old lights? If you don't want them let me know. You can always stop in the office as you drive by.

Tim

Pyzik

Alright , I will go over everything again tomorrow . I'm little curious , how come there is no 2 rings for the bigger diameter pipe that goes to TB? I drove the car on the high idle (at1700rpm) just to check it out , and the car is a beast! So smooth and responsive! Now it's a true Himen car!

Oh and thats the 7mm I was turning, is it the right screw?

PorKen

The airflow distribution 'T' touches the plenums (which creates the gap from the plenums to the runners).

Correct.

Pyzik

Check out the idle and the response !
Almost like a motorcycle haha http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cz_82Wt2MkA&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Pyzik

I rechecked everything I found a broken clamp on one of the runners so replaced that, on cold engine I jumped the fuel pump and set to 56psi and when I start the car the gauge shows 44psi . Is it normal that I set the fuel pressure on engine off is set to 56 and when I start the car it's only 44? All my vacuum lines are zip tied tight but I checked anyway. Oh and yesterday. I set the pressure on warm engine to 58psi and when I jumped the fuel pump today the pressure showed like 66psi . So I turned it down to 56 on cold engine. Also just to be sure , when I recived the chips in those green containers, when installing them , was I supposed to pry it out of the socket they were in or leave it in and just install the whole thing in the brains? ( I left them in and installed the whole thing)

Pyzik

My afpr does have a vacuum line hooked up and my mas is sitting good. Would not putting the top part of air intake couse the problem? Filter is in and no more , should I install the filter top cover too?

PorKen

58 cold. At idle, manifold vacuum reduces the fuel pressure from the FPR to balance the vacuum at the injectors.

Leave the chips in the sockets. It protects the delicate EPROM pins if/when there is an upgrade available.