Richter12x2

Oh yeah, nothing to tune, the hard work's been done. Just add the '87 FPR to start and you'll see gain. Afterwards save your money for an X-pipe, start looking for an electric fan and get rid of the air pump. For a car that started at 288hp at the crank, you should land around 300hp at the rear wheels.

GlennD

After adding the chips and the FPR, I will suggest that the mixture and idle speed should be reviewed and adjusted as required.

I used the Blinkr (also available from Ken) and the instructions provided. Adjusting the mixture and idle speed made the car even more smooth

Regards,
Glenn

dprantl

Have you ever noticed a momentary drop in idle RPM when turning on an electrical component in a car that draws lots of current? Try it today with both windows up pressing both up buttons at the same time and watch the tach (if it's a pre '91; later 928's wont allow doing both at the same time). Converting from the mechanical fan to an electric one will not save you any HP. It's not like the mechanical fan is a direct drive at all RPMs. If the fan pulley is not dragging on the engine, you will see that load on the alternator pulley instead.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

UncleMaz

Thanks Glenn. I don't see the Blink'r listed on Ken's site. Upon ordering the chips and rings, I will inquire about it. I found this picture while searching MAF and CO adjustment in general(maybe it is in this thread/sorry if repeat). Labels added by me.

SiFi1886

So I'm joining this thread a little late i know, but is there a link anywhere on how to install the chips themselves, as I want to order myself some today.

Also is the FPR a must or can I keep the stock.

PorKen

The LH brown wires connected (= 'adaptive AFR') makes part throttle fueling more stable and gives better throttle response. They can be plugged with or w/o the WOTpot as it only works during part throttle, using the O2 sensor. (They need to be unplugged to set the idle CO/AFR.)

The chips should be pretty close right out of the box, hopefully a little rich at WOT.

The other gadgets let you perfect the WOT mixture for your MAF = WOTpot, then unlock a little more advance = WOTnot. (All MAFs vary in output, only a fraction of a volt makes a big difference at high rpm.)

Note that with my chips, the MAF CO screw adjusts not only the idle AFR, but adds to (or subtracts a little from) the WOT AFR, so you may not ever need a WOTpot.

In order to install the No-Lift-Shift wiring, the cruise control must be deleted. NLS takes a while to learn to use, but you'll wonder how anyone can drive a manual w/o it - if you drive hard enough to shift near redline at times.

I don't make Blink'rs anymore. They were too time consuming to make. (Occasionally, I think about making a less fancy version, without the 911/914 relay...someday.)

This thread shows the design of the LED tester - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-85-86-us.html

MrMerlin/Stan posted about installing them - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tall-them.html

The '87 S4 FPR is required. It will run dangerously lean with my chips and the stock FPR.

Richter12x2

Unless the thermowax clutch is shot in your mechanical fan. Then you can update the car, save some power and spend far less than trying to source a new Porsche part, or spending the same amount on another used one that may have the same problem.

UncleMaz

Thank you so much Ken.

Michael

Jon B.

I just finished swapping in V3.5 + TQrings and there is certainly a difference from the S300 (blue dot?) that were in the car. I didn't install the WOTpot and I'm going to save it until I buy headers and redo the exhaust. So, should I have plugged in the brown wires on the LH? I know it makes it adaptive, but I wasn't 100% sure it would be needed.

The car is noticeably smoother now and part throttle has been improved. That's not to say it was bad before, but that Ken's continuing efforts on his chips have been WELL worth the effort! If I had paid 3x the amount I would still have been just as happy. That's how good they are. Also, if anyone is still on the fence about these my car will gladly suck your doors off to change your mind!

Don Carter

Ken,

Got the 3.5 chips installed, and the torque rings, and it runs good. Can't say I notice a huge difference but the power is does seem smoother and better mid throttle response.

One minor issue... going from 3.1 to 3.5, I've noticed that the idle drops lower than before when I put it in gear, as though it's going to die, but it usually doesn't. It's only actually died once, so not a big deal, just an observation for 3.6 :-)

PorKen

Don,

It's all about part throttle and lower rpms w/the TQrings. You may find it pulls harder in top gear instead of kicking down.

Kickdown is awesome on my '86.5 auto. I've been driving it for a week or so while I had the intake off of the manual, and I really didn't miss having to shift myself.

The idle change is normal. Just give the TB screw 1/2 to 1 full turn CCW until the idle drop is gone. (The chips shipping as of today have a little more advance at idle, which does this for you.)

Don Carter

Thanks Ken,

By TB screw, you mean the CO adjustment on the MAF or some other adjustment?

PorKen

The idle speed adjustment screw on the front of the throttle body. It takes a 7mm socket.

UncleMaz

I love my new chips. Thanks Ken. They are transformative at the low end. Throttle response is much improved. I also think they will be easier on any clutch too, contrary to my instincts

rexpontius

Dear All,

I already sent a PM to Ken, but perhaps anyone else here also has an idea about the following:

Today I finally finished reassembly of my 86.5 after the respray.
Off course my hands were 'itching' to install the s300s with TQ rings and off couse the FPR.

Before installing I doublechecked if the car ran normal, just to make sure I did not forget to connect a vacuum line, etc. etc. during reassemby.

When I installed the S300s and FPR the car fired up instantly and ran noticably smoother idle.

The first impression was perfect and VERY powerfull acceleration. Really a incredible improvement.
When driving it around a little longer I noticed the very strong pulling got slightly less.

Especially with full throttle, the car seems to be significantly less powerfull compared to, say 70-80% throttle. It almost feels, as if the throttle position sensor sees full throttle, and then decides to switch back to the non-s300s program.
The car actually accelerates faster with part throttle compared to full throttle.


When I turn the car off, and restart, the problem is gone for the first mile, and then reoccurs.

I doublechecked several connectors for vacuum leaks, but cannot find any issues.

Does anyone know what might be the problem here? (MAF?)

Cheers
Michel