Pyzik

I have adjusted the maf to 382ohm but nothing changed, could anybody tell me roughly how many turns from the dead stop on the idle screw tot turn so atleast the car could start and run by itself? I have no idea where it should be , it's all over the place. I quess I have to take it to mechanic but I do t even know what to tell him what I did haha it's crazy!

h011yw00d

Try putting the old chips back in and see if it fixes it. If not it's something else. Probably stuck throttle cable or vacuum leak. Also make sure you reconnected the EZK vacuum line and seated the LH and EZK plugs securely.

Mike Frye

I think he'd need the stock FPR as well, but I agree. Undo everything you did and get it working perfectly in stock configuration then do the chips and FPR. Should start right up.

If it's cranking and tries to start by feathering the gas pedal I don't think there's any chance that could be a chip problem. When I wiped my chip it didn't even try to start, just cranked.

Pyzik

I changed the chips. But with out changing the fuel pressure and that was before i adjusted the maf to 382 ohms and same thing was going on. What's the stock pressure?

fbarnhill

I don't think the fpr is the issue here. I ran mine with the 87 FPR for a month or so before putting the chips in. It idled a bit rought but ran just fine. Do you have a 2hd lh and ezk you could plug in to just try? I spent a fortune on my no-start issue to discover it was the computer itself. If you can borrow one from someone, it would rule out something going wrong during the chip install.

Pyzik

No I don't have extra lh or ezk.

Pyzik

I just picked up the car from shop, I guess the idle control valve was stock or something like that. They tapped it a its fine ....Anyways my question is are any of the single wires ( green and brown ) by the plugs that connected to the brains supposed to be connected when using the chip? And the fuel pressure gauge shows only 44 psi when engine running, but once I shut it off needle shows 56psi, is that normal or should it be higher when engine running?

Jon B.

Just throwing this out there, if you are running a fuel pressure gauge at the rail, REMOVE IT.

Plugging inthe brown wires allows the car to run in "adaptive" AFR mode.

PorKen

That ICV should be replaced.

Green ones on EZ, usually never.

Brown ones on LH, optional. Connecting those will make the throttle a little more responsive, and may save a little fuel on the highway. (Disconnect when setting CO.)

58 cold. At idle, manifold vacuum reduces the fuel pressure from the FPR to balance the vacuum at the injectors.

rad_951

Ken,

Could you explain what the "no lift" shifting feature is doing? I am most curious what it does when down shifting.
Thanks.

Anthony

Pyzik

Is it big of a job to change the icv? It's right next to maf sensor right? The shop wanted 1000$ and I think I could do it myself unless it gets tricky somewhere ? Which icv would you suggest ? Thanks for all the help!

BC

1000 usd? Jayzus. 200-300 for a real new one and stick it in. No wonder these cars are tanking in value.

PorKen

NLS is just a dual rev limit. Clutch down, 4800 rpm, clutch up 6700.

You would only notice it downshifting if you shifted down from over 4000 or so?


$1K is a whole intake refresh +.

The ICV isn't that difficult to change. Getting the electrical plug off might be the most difficult thing.

Tools: a small flat bladed screwdriver and a 6mm socket.

<$200 for Bosch, 0 280 140 509

Mike Frye

Yeah, they gave him the special, 'We really don't know how to do this or want to do it, but for $1000 we'll figure it out.' price.

Pyzik

Yea they really pissed me off , for tapping the icv they charged me 300$ , anyways the car runs but I think I have to change back on the maf to 540 ohms because when the rpm gets to 4 k the cars stops pulling , I don't think they did anything else except tap the icv ... Sucks to get service like That from a respected private Porsche service That charges 110$ per hour,.