fbarnhill

Ken, I hate to ask you but can you tell us or show us software folk out here how to make the led circit? I am no electrical wiz and the simple diagram just doesn't register... Sorry but in order to get it right I must admit my ignorance. I feel that I need to make this adjustment too. I also have a stumbling idle and it will not idle less than 1k no matter what I do. All vac lines/clamps are new. I did, however find one of the clamps on the 'T' loose a week or so ago but it didn't make much difference. The x-pipe goes on tomorrow and I am hoping that it will help this thing to breathe a little better.

Thanks,
Frank

Hilton

Frank - the diagram is here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-85-86-us.html

The value of the resistor depends on the LED you use.

e.g. for a 1.5V 20ma LED:

Mike Frye

Frank,
I have a blink'r you can borrow if you like for the cost of shipping. PM me your info and I'll try to get it in the mail today or tomorrow.

FWIW- idle problems are almost ALWAYS vacuum leaks. But if you want to confirm the CO is right, the blink'r will help.

PorKen

If you cannot get the idle down below 700 rpm, then the CO LED won't work, anyway.

Have to find and fix the vacuum leak(s), first.

BIMMERMIKE

Make sure none of the cables are not stuck or causing high 'idle'.
I had this happen to me after intake refresh and was driving me crazy until I noticed throttle cable was jammed.

Pyzik

This is crazy ! Everything is as it was before refresh. Is it possible that the chip cousing this ?its so Annoying.

PorKen

Have you R&R'ed the plenums?


The only way (I can think of) that it could be the new chip is if the coolant temp sensor was bad or disconnected. (But it'd be so rich, it probably wouldn't run.)

Check the coolant temp at the LH connector between terminals 2 and 25. Should be >1K ohms cold, a few hundred ohms hot.

Good time to check if the idle (3, 25), and WOT (12, 25) switches are working, too.

(EZ/LH pinout thread)

Pyzik

Ok me and my buddy did everything over and as soon we put it together and when we started it it wouldnt run! When you hold the gas peddal
little the engine runs but pops and doesn't wanna run with by itself. the leak is maybe gone but the screw needs adjustment? I drive to him Nd we took it apart , put it back together , and no run ...

Mike Frye

Pyzik,

Take a breath. Step back and think about it logically. There aren't that many variables here. It's GOT to be something that changed since it was running well.

There is a finite list of things that you changed in order to put the chips in and one of them must have caused this, maybe a combination of them.

If the car was running at all after the change, the chips must be oriented correctly and I would assume that the boards aren't cracked or anything. So that leaves the work in the 'field' or under the hood.

You'll have to go through it methodically to make sure you have everything done correctly.

Pyzik

Should I make that blinker thing? And the whole garage stunk like gas from the exhaust so I quess it's rich as hell.

Pyzik

Really weird , car don't start unless I hold the accelerator pedal . Engine pops like a misfire . I have no idea what to do anymore. I checked cold coolant it was 1400ohm , maf is 540ohm . Any ideas ?

PorKen

First, remove the MAF and adjust to ~382 ohms between pins 3 and 6 on the MAF.

Double check spark plug wire routing.

ramcram

I know this has been mentioned in passing Ken but do you suggest using your current chips with a supercharged 86 ROW or not? Mine has low [5psi] boost.
Mike

Pete L

Ken

I did not pass CA emissions yesterday (barely high HC only and just barely) with the Porken Chip. I've never final adjusted the MAF, simply set the resistance to 382 ohms. The car smelled a little rich on the rollers to me.

Car continues to run really well and ran like a champ at Willow Springs last month; picked up 5 MPH down the front straight with similar turn 9 exit speeds. (but does not pull like the new Z06 I had a ride in!)

Want to make my own blinker to set mixture before next test. My LED is a 12V with 30MA, so do I event need a resistor to make the assembly?

Pete

PorKen

Mike - with the lower compression ROW 32V you may be able to use the 89 octane version w/92 octane fuel with the 'WOTpot' addition. You may want to adjust some cam retard in too. It would be a good idea to install a knock sensor with a KnockLite.


Pete - A 12V LED will have an internal resistor, so it's plug-n-play.


FWIW, the WOT test would use a 5V LED. B->C. B is 5V until the WOT switch is closed.