Porken's 85 chips- Awesome!
03-06-2011, 07:14 PM
#406
Rennlist Member
Ken,
Got the 3.1 chips installed today. So far so good (15 minute test drive), no stutter.
Two more tabs broke off. I'll be forced to use duct tape if there are any more updates :-)
Got the 3.1 chips installed today. So far so good (15 minute test drive), no stutter.
Two more tabs broke off. I'll be forced to use duct tape if there are any more updates :-)
03-06-2011, 07:39 PM
#408
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You don't need the tabs on the LH. The bolts hold the cover down. On the EZF, I worried off the tabs, leaving a small nub which I bent so that the cover snaps on, and can be popped off with a small screwdriver.
Forget the tabs, how does it drive! I'm dying' here.
...
I added to the 'lean mode' code so that it's not quite as lean at idle, but still flat. (Autos need it a little richer for a smooth idle.) In driving around, my l/100km gauge shows I am using less fuel at highway speeds. It will be interesting to see how much when I fill up again.
Forget the tabs, how does it drive! I'm dying' here.
...
I added to the 'lean mode' code so that it's not quite as lean at idle, but still flat. (Autos need it a little richer for a smooth idle.) In driving around, my l/100km gauge shows I am using less fuel at highway speeds. It will be interesting to see how much when I fill up again.
03-06-2011, 07:50 PM
#409
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jun 2003
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Was raining here today, so I'm planning on taking it out tommorow to see how it does. It seems to idle a little lower. I also found I had the three way tee for the fuel vent broken, so I had a little vac leak.
03-06-2011, 09:05 PM
#410
Three Wheelin'
Ken, you wouldn't happen to have another set of chips that I could get and then send my current set back to you? I'm using the car daily, so down-time is precious.
03-06-2011, 10:26 PM
#411
Rennlist Member
Ken,
Took a longer test drive, including freeway and city driving. Running really good. No idle surging and no studder. Could be my imagination, but it seems like it takes less throttle to keep it at 80.
Took a longer test drive, including freeway and city driving. Running really good. No idle surging and no studder. Could be my imagination, but it seems like it takes less throttle to keep it at 80.
03-06-2011, 11:32 PM
#412
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I do...for folks that originally bought the chips. You can buy a set at the regular price, and I will refund you (minus postage/mailer cost) when I receive the old chips, or you will need to mail the old chips back first, and pay for the update (postage/mailer cost).
03-07-2011, 10:51 PM
#414
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Dan - v3.2 is the latest. V3 is a major revision. (Update through the website.)
I keep saying I've got nothing left to add, but I think I'm truly done, now, with the addition of 'lean mode', which should save fuel, especially with the big gap plugs. I also added some ignition advance while cranking, when the engine is hot, to help start the engine faster if you want to turn off the car when you expect to idle for a while (EG. drive up ATMs, etc).
Speaking of which, I went by my friends shop today and checked the emissions (no load/no NOx reading) with my no-cat/X-pipe auto in 'lean mode' (flat 15.4:1 cruise/14.8:1 idle AFR).
RPM | H C | CO | CO²
0700 | 90 | .45 | 10.5
2500 | 40 | .40 | 12.0
I keep saying I've got nothing left to add, but I think I'm truly done, now, with the addition of 'lean mode', which should save fuel, especially with the big gap plugs. I also added some ignition advance while cranking, when the engine is hot, to help start the engine faster if you want to turn off the car when you expect to idle for a while (EG. drive up ATMs, etc).
Speaking of which, I went by my friends shop today and checked the emissions (no load/no NOx reading) with my no-cat/X-pipe auto in 'lean mode' (flat 15.4:1 cruise/14.8:1 idle AFR).
RPM | H C | CO | CO²
0700 | 90 | .45 | 10.5
2500 | 40 | .40 | 12.0
03-07-2011, 10:55 PM
#415
Race Car
Dan - v3.2 is the latest. (Update through the website.)
I keep saying I've got nothing left to add, but I think I'm truly done, now, with the addition of 'lean mode', which should save fuel, especially with the big gap plugs. I also added some ignition advance while cranking, when the engine is hot, to help start the engine faster if you want to turn off the car when you expect to idle for a while (EG. drive up ATMs, etc).
Speaking of which, I went by my friends shop today and checked the emissions (no load/no NOx reading) with my no-cat/X-pipe auto in 'lean mode' (flat 15.4:1 cruise/14.8:1 idle AFR).
RPM | H C | CO | CO²
0700 | 90 | .45 | 10.5
2500 | 40 | .40 | 12.0
I keep saying I've got nothing left to add, but I think I'm truly done, now, with the addition of 'lean mode', which should save fuel, especially with the big gap plugs. I also added some ignition advance while cranking, when the engine is hot, to help start the engine faster if you want to turn off the car when you expect to idle for a while (EG. drive up ATMs, etc).
Speaking of which, I went by my friends shop today and checked the emissions (no load/no NOx reading) with my no-cat/X-pipe auto in 'lean mode' (flat 15.4:1 cruise/14.8:1 idle AFR).
RPM | H C | CO | CO²
0700 | 90 | .45 | 10.5
2500 | 40 | .40 | 12.0
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
03-07-2011, 11:19 PM
#416
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When running on public roads, I recommend you have all emissions equipment installed...and the LH 'octane loop' disconnected...
...especially when you are on the road to an emissions testing facility.
...especially when you are on the road to an emissions testing facility.
03-08-2011, 12:06 AM
#417
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'd have to buy something like this first...on spec, then sell 50 ROW chips to pay for it...or drag all my equipment over to Germany, and hang out at Karsten's (darklands) farm for a few weeks. 
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...e-85-euro.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...e-85-euro.html
03-08-2011, 01:08 PM
#418
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Wow.
I put the chips in yesterday afternoon, still only a few miles on it but wow.
Ken, I've been a member of the 'chip of the month' club for a few years now and each set seems to bring something different and noticeably better. This one appears smoother than any of the previous ones from 1200-2k. Seems like there are more cells in there or something. Very smooth and better pickup from right off of idle with my 5-speed.
I think mine is a little rich and I'll have to see if I'm supposed to change the plug configuration from the last one (I think I had mine set up to be in the richer map because it was a little lean at the top of cruise with the previous set or two).
I'll have to hook up the logger and see what the WB02 is saying but it smells a little rich to me. I idled it up to address the 5-speed condition you mentioned, but didn't take the time to set up the CO first because I just wanted to drive it.
I gotta tell you though, I want to LIVE above 4k rpms. This thing is scary fast at WOT. I just love that sound and feel: VRIIIIIIIPPPPPPPPPP. You said it best. It's like ripping silk with a chainsaw.
I had to hold on tight and I still haven't found a section of road where I can go WOT for more than a few seconds in any gear.
Ken you are the master:
I put the chips in yesterday afternoon, still only a few miles on it but wow.
Ken, I've been a member of the 'chip of the month' club for a few years now and each set seems to bring something different and noticeably better. This one appears smoother than any of the previous ones from 1200-2k. Seems like there are more cells in there or something. Very smooth and better pickup from right off of idle with my 5-speed.
I think mine is a little rich and I'll have to see if I'm supposed to change the plug configuration from the last one (I think I had mine set up to be in the richer map because it was a little lean at the top of cruise with the previous set or two).
I'll have to hook up the logger and see what the WB02 is saying but it smells a little rich to me. I idled it up to address the 5-speed condition you mentioned, but didn't take the time to set up the CO first because I just wanted to drive it.
I gotta tell you though, I want to LIVE above 4k rpms. This thing is scary fast at WOT. I just love that sound and feel: VRIIIIIIIPPPPPPPPPP. You said it best. It's like ripping silk with a chainsaw.
I had to hold on tight and I still haven't found a section of road where I can go WOT for more than a few seconds in any gear.
Ken you are the master:
03-08-2011, 01:44 PM
#419
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Mike - you may have to readjust the CO screw for V3. (A newer MAF should be right around 382 ohms, or a little lower, now.) You have v3.1, so if you connect the LH 'octane loop', it will make the WOT AFR richer.
Note that it's tough to set the CO with the Blink'r if you are using the wideband analog output, so set it for ~14.7 AFR (λ = 1) with the Blink'r switch to the right, which is where the LED blinks at.
If you received the V3 update before 3/5, then you will have v3.1, which doesn't have the 'lean mode' upgrade.
One problem I had pre-V3 is that I had two bad rebuilds from Inj. Labs. One was totally off, rich, and the other was slightly off lean. The lean one was my tuning MAF.
I returned the rich one, and had a second spare rebuilt recently, and they match at idle, with around 2.7 volts at cold idle. All MAFs vary by a few hundredths of a volt, which is why I added the WOT compensation code. After a rebuild MAFs may read a little rich. As they age, they output a tiny bit less and less voltage at the same airflow over the years. A hundredth of a volt makes a big difference when multiplied by RPM.
v3.2 is going to be the standard for a while. Kind of a shame, because after 3 years of staring at disassembled code, I can finally program in hex at will. I can even type in some of the most common 8048 op codes from memory. (EG. IN A,P1/09h, MOV A,#/23h)
Note that it's tough to set the CO with the Blink'r if you are using the wideband analog output, so set it for ~14.7 AFR (λ = 1) with the Blink'r switch to the right, which is where the LED blinks at.
If you received the V3 update before 3/5, then you will have v3.1, which doesn't have the 'lean mode' upgrade.
One problem I had pre-V3 is that I had two bad rebuilds from Inj. Labs. One was totally off, rich, and the other was slightly off lean. The lean one was my tuning MAF.
I returned the rich one, and had a second spare rebuilt recently, and they match at idle, with around 2.7 volts at cold idle. All MAFs vary by a few hundredths of a volt, which is why I added the WOT compensation code. After a rebuild MAFs may read a little rich. As they age, they output a tiny bit less and less voltage at the same airflow over the years. A hundredth of a volt makes a big difference when multiplied by RPM.v3.2 is going to be the standard for a while. Kind of a shame, because after 3 years of staring at disassembled code, I can finally program in hex at will. I can even type in some of the most common 8048 op codes from memory. (EG. IN A,P1/09h, MOV A,#/23h)
03-08-2011, 03:23 PM
#420
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Mike - you may have to readjust the CO screw for V3. (A newer MAF should be right around 382 ohms, or a little lower, now.) You have v3.1, so if you connect the LH 'octane loop', it will make the WOT AFR richer.
Note that it's tough to set the CO with the Blink'r if you are using the wideband analog output, so set it for ~14.7 AFR (λ = 1) with the Blink'r switch to the right, which is where the LED blinks at.
If you received the V3 update before 3/5, then you will have v3.1, which doesn't have the 'lean mode' upgrade.
One problem I had pre-V3 is that I had two bad rebuilds from Inj. Labs. One was totally off, rich, and the other was slightly off lean. The lean one was my tuning MAF. I returned the rich one, and had a second spare rebuilt recently, and they match at idle, with around 2.7 volts at cold idle. All MAFs vary by a few hundredths of a volt, which is why I added the WOT compensation code. After a rebuild MAFs may read a little rich. As they age, they output a tiny bit less and less voltage at the same airflow over the years. A hundredth of a volt makes a big difference when multiplied by RPM.
v3.2 is going to be the standard for a while. Kind of a shame, because after 3 years of staring at disassembled code, I can finally program in hex at will. I can even type in some of the most common 8048 op codes from memory. (EG. IN A,P1/09h, MOV A,#/23h)
Note that it's tough to set the CO with the Blink'r if you are using the wideband analog output, so set it for ~14.7 AFR (λ = 1) with the Blink'r switch to the right, which is where the LED blinks at.
If you received the V3 update before 3/5, then you will have v3.1, which doesn't have the 'lean mode' upgrade.
One problem I had pre-V3 is that I had two bad rebuilds from Inj. Labs. One was totally off, rich, and the other was slightly off lean. The lean one was my tuning MAF.
I returned the rich one, and had a second spare rebuilt recently, and they match at idle, with around 2.7 volts at cold idle. All MAFs vary by a few hundredths of a volt, which is why I added the WOT compensation code. After a rebuild MAFs may read a little rich. As they age, they output a tiny bit less and less voltage at the same airflow over the years. A hundredth of a volt makes a big difference when multiplied by RPM.v3.2 is going to be the standard for a while. Kind of a shame, because after 3 years of staring at disassembled code, I can finally program in hex at will. I can even type in some of the most common 8048 op codes from memory. (EG. IN A,P1/09h, MOV A,#/23h)
Thanks, my chip was labeled 3.1. I figured I was going to have to adjust the CO. Unfortunately I loaned my Blink'r to someone and never got it back.
. I have to adjust using the PC hooked up to the logging setup, which works just fine. I can't believe I'm one version behind again!
My MAF has tested fine every time but maybe I should get a rebuilt so I have a spare. I've got spares of just about everything else and it is apparently a wear item.
Thanks again, I'll report back when I get the CO adjusted and get some runs logged.
I am SO going to the dyno this spring.
