PorKen

If you have access to a WBO2, the WOTpot makes the V3 chips 'perfect'. The XDFs are for folks that want/need to make/edit their own stock chips or ST files. Mostly for supercharging.

I hope you can get the same performance I do w/my '85. I may be a little biased, but if '86.5s are the GTS of the Old Body style, then '85 5-speeds are the GTs.





(Mainly because I'm hooked on high speed adrenaline, and need a fix) I'm going to test upping the advance a touch w/a WOTpot. Because you can adjust to a particular MAF and exhaust combo, I think I can safely run a little more w/o fear of knocks.

The WOTpot code, along with the CO+WOT code I put in previously, has a side effect of automatically adjusting for voltage fluctuations (better than the stock volt code) and I think MAF (electronics) temperature, because the fueling is super flat at all temps. The stock fueling has some randomness to it, so I set the max advance to pretty much the worst case.

anonymousagain

Ken - to clarify this statement

LH Octane Loop plugged in won't hurt since 89 chips have lower advance, but may help cruise mpg, yes?

wanted to try plugging in the LH loop to get to the "lean mode" you mention and monitor mileage, but looking for a warm fuzzy that it won't cause any negative impact (since using the 89 chip).

okay to try it?

Benton

I have to catch up on the latest in this thread, but I am pumped to buy the chips and some other stuff from you, Ken. I am beginning the process of rebuilding an essentially stock 5.0 for my '86 race car (original 130k engine finally bit the bullet), and I can't wait to get closer to finished so I can test some of this stuff out on the track!

velocipus

Ahhhh. Thanks!

Burned out all the old fuel, tested MAF resistance and it was around 280somethin ohms. I cannot access the CO adjustment screw as there is a plug covering it. I need to pull the MAF out to get to it rather than spend hours scratching away at it with a dental pick trying to catch a corner of the plug.

Looks like rain through the weekend, so it's a good time to get under the hood anyway and see how things are doing after the refresh.

PorKen

No problem w/either octane chip.

The CO adjustment 'zero' is 382ish ohms, so yours was adjusted leaner for some reason (some MAFs read rich when new/rebuilt). I added programming that changes the WOT fueling ± based on the CO adjustment. If you reset the CO to 382, it may improve your full throttle power. (Best to check the CO adjustment at idle with a WBO2.)

The MAF CO plug is really in there. The WSM extraction method is to drill a small hole in the center of the plug, then screw in a small sheet metal screw. Do not replace the plug. (I put a small piece of masking tape over the hole after adjustment.)

Note the CO pot is different than the accessory WOTpot which I supply. I added additional code in the V3.3 LH chip which allows you to adjust the WOT input resistance. This adjustment is added to the WOT fueling. Combined, the WOTpot and CO pot lets you tailor the V3 chipset for your particular MAF and exhaust setup.


I've just this week added code in the V3.3 EZF chip to allow for extra performance if you are sure your fueling is correct (<13:1 AFR from 2500-redline). Unplugging the WOT input enables this. I've added a 'octane loop' type plug kit to make this easier to switch - the WOTnot. This also allows for a two step EZF 'octane loop' retard. (This can be used with the stock chipset too.)

In addition to the WOTnot code, I also improved the air temp retard code for noticeably more power at part throttle, w/or w/o the WOT unplugged!

WOTpot

WOTnot

BC

Do you have some pictures as to how all that would be used?

PorKen

B - check the site. There's an install manual for the WOTpot. I'm putting together one for the WOTnot - basically the same procedure, though.


...

The weather here has started to improve. It was a nice cool sunny day yesterday and I drove the '85 up my favorite steep twisty test road to verify no knocks w/the new air temp retard code. (I know, tough job. )

Awesome. The extra advance at part throttle works well with the high effeciency 'lean mode', and it goes like heck at full throttle. No knocks, and only a barely perceptable drop in power after the coolant temp rose waiting at the intersection at the top of the hill.

The WOTnot advance is pretty much perfect, just a couple of degrees below the level of light knocking at 2700 and >5000. With the WOT input enabled (normal operation), there is a good safety factor.

I may have said it before, but I think I'm done, now.

dprantl

Tuning is never done. The only way to have it done is to just stop. The ST2 is pretty much a permanent fixture in my car, but I love messing with it every day

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb/ft

anonymousagain

thank you Ken.

Any need to switch out the newly installed 3.2 chips for 3.3 chips?

PorKen

Dan - I hope that the automatic compensation programming and accessories have shifted tuning for the last few HP from my end, to the end user. I'm happy too that I don't have to dumb down the chips to suit the worst case.

Kirt - You may feel a little more power w/3.3 and you have option of yet more with the optional addons. (They can also be added later w/o changing the chip.)

BC

So you tune the top chip on 91 or 92?

BC

With the WOT pot I may be able to run E85 on a regular basis if I can get the fueling right. Timing would make little difference other than it could then take additional advance.

anonymousagain

thanks again Ken!

I'll hold with the 3.2's for now, while I'm testing the mpg impact with LH octane plugged in. Besides,
x-pipe will go on soon along with new injectors, so I'll send you an exchange request for the 3.3's then.

btw - is it possible that LH plugged in can slightly clean-up lower rpm response? Not many miles yet, but ~2200 and up feels "crisper"?? and I wasn't looking for any performance change, just mpg....

PorKen

S3s don't make much power below 2000 rpm.

Have you checked/tightened the control cable to the transmission (nearest the engine)? Adjusting this cable makes the auto much more responsive. Remove the clip and pop the socket off the ball. The stock adjustment is for the socket to drop straight down on the ball. One turn at a time, try a little tighter. Tighter, the engine holds a gear a bit longer, and is more willing to drop down a gear with more pedal pressure. (If you adjust too tight, it will be annoyingly hesitant to go into fourth when you get onto the freeway.) I have my '86.5 adjusted so the 2-3 shift doesn't happen until 2400ish rpm at medium throttle.


The 3.3 EZF chip improves light throttle power with more advance. Might make for a touch better mileage too.

foreplay

reminds me of risky business