belgiumbarry

hehe.. does the core has to be of the same dimensions ?

mark kibort

Get rid of the drysump and problem solved!

mk

Lizard928

I figured I would update this.

I did end up finally getting the pieces.

However i wish to give abit more of the story.

Paid for aug 30/08. quoted 4-6 weeks delivery time.
Most emails after paying were not responded to, infact all of them until I posted on the board.

I was not offered any sort of partial refund due to how long it took, nor were they shipped fast, they were shipped ground and took almost 2 weeks to arrive. And because UPS was used there was ALOT of fees involved.
So paid $550 for the scraper, then almost another $80 to be delivered.
As to the building of it, it is a very simple made piece. And imho anyone with some skills and tools could assemble their bottom end, make a cardboard template, and cut one themselves out of light materials and tack weld it together.

To top it off there was absolutely zero instructions as to how to assemble the pieces to the bottom end. So the jigsaw puzzle will begin later.

This is one thing that I would not recommend bothering with at this price!!!!!

Lizard928

yah, that is the truth.

Also what he has done is made templates, then he just takes all those to the waterjet or laserjet cutter and picks up the pieces the next day. I could probably have them all done at a local place for around $150, this is with doing one at a time. Then all it would take is about an hour, MAYBE 2 of bending, then a few small tacks (with a MIG). A couple of edges touched with a grinder and your done.

hacker-pschorr

Just be careful not to install any of the rod caps backwards.

Vilhuer

I have one version of instalation instructions on PDF file. PM your email if you want it.

Carl sells same I-J scrapers AFAIK. Though price is higher at $689.95. Maybe delivery time is also faster.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...aftscraper.php

Bill Ball

Colin:

I wouldn't call it simple, but I guess that's all relative to whatever. In fact, it struck me as unnecessarily complex. Installation becomes pretty clear once you do a trial fit, which is needed anyway to make sure the clearances are right. We ended up having to grind a couple of pieces for Dennis's motor, but not much.

Once you cross the US/Canadian border, either way, you can add a week or more to shipping time and a lot to expense. Too bad about that.

He should not have charged you fully until he was going to ship within 30 days.

Dennis K

Colin - do you have any pics of the scrapers & windage tray? Like Bill, "simple" is not one of the words that springs to mind when I think of the I-J kit. Maybe there's been a further evolution of the kit? (which is why I'm curious to see what you have)

Bill Ball

Colin: Here's what we got for Dennis's motor..

RyanPerrella

i agree it seems overly complex for what it does.

I questioned wether or not a simpler solution could be achieved. When guys put in windage trays in chebys they are $15 parts, not $700. I agree the principal is great, and should really help the 928, but this scraper ALWAYS seemed like its way too many parts, too many nuts and bolts to get loose too if you ask me

I would love to see a pan spacer / windage tray thats much simpler, the main idea is to get oil off the crank and to keep oil from sloshing about in the sump. Those problems are solved much simpler then with all these parts shown.

atb

Those of you that have worked with the scraper/windage tray set up, does it look like it would work in conjunction with the Simard Girdle brace? It looks like it would with some mods, but I'm contemplating just using the scraper system and then having windage screen and some tray material tack welded onto the Simard brace (in the gaps) in lieu of the J-I windage tray components.

Think it would work?

Louie928

Hi Adam,
I think I understand what you are saying. If that means welding windage screen material to the girdle brace, I don't think that would work. The uni-directional screening is steel and similar screen from aluminum would be too weak. You might look into attaching the screen to the oil sump like I did. There are cast in bosses that can be used. The sump baffle I made is not track usable. I think it is too closed and doesn't allow enough drainback capability when in a left corner. The main drainback opening I have is in the center. In that massively evil turn 2 at Spokane, I see oil pressure drop to 3 bar about at the late apex point. It did work ok at Thunderhill, but Spokane turn 2 is worse. I need something to allow oil to drain in from the edges when in a corner, but not splash out. I was too concerned with keeping oil in the sump and not enough concerned with letting oil back in under adverse conditions. The sump cover Kevin has "looks" like it would be better with all those little slits. He has his sump cover mounted higher too which may help. The longer stroke crank makes everything more difficult to fit.

I don't know if it really matters, but I have it in my head that the crank scrapers should point toward the crank centerline rather than the very shallow tangent angle on Kevin's scrapers. With the tangent angle scrapers a small up/down movement (vibration) would change the clearance to the rotating parts a lot. With the scraper edge pointing at the crank center, the scraper assembly is stiffer because it is bent and you can cut the clearance tighter because it won't change. Any movement of the scraper will increase the clearance, not make it tighter. Just my idea on it.

BC

I put both on. There was some modification needed, but the pieces need some grinding anyway. I am still working on making the oil pickup clear everything.

atb

Any pics B.C.?

Did the windage screen go between the brace and block or between the brace and the main stud nuts?
I don't have the Simard main studs, so Mike was kind enough to countersink the main stud nut contact area so the brace would work with stock main studs. The problem is of course that if the windage screen attaches between the nut and the brace, I don't have a flat surface there I have a countersink. If it fits between the brace and the girdle, can you tell me how thick the baffle plate is so I can make sure that the main stud nuts have enough thread purchase on the studs?

svp928

Louie, most scrapers these days are tangential to the crank to try and catch the oil coming off and redirect it without it hitting a vertical wall and exploding...they want to catch it, decelerate it, and direct it to the sump as gently as possible. At 6000 rpm Its coming off the crank at about 2000 ft/min, and it has to stop in a couple of inches...The scrapers do have to be a lot stronger than you might guess at first, to prevent what you were describing- bending into the rotating parts. All kinds of fun sh*t happening down there...