It was the same way before I put the tensioner in place. That's why I put the tensioner in place but didn't put the banjo bolt in the head. I was hoping the tensioner would put it in spec but alas...........

Hammer

 

I'll go with Adam's suggestion then. That gage is only needed to set "basic timing" of the cams. You'll get them in the correct position when you do the precision valve timing. You'll only know if you have a real issue if you can't get them timed properly within the range limits of the cam gears' adjustment slots.

 

P.S. I bet if you rotate both of the gears a few degrees in the same direction, that gage will sit nicely.

 

All I have to say to these cams is..."Wait 'till your father gets home!!"

Hammer

 

Believe me Hammer, if you're just about to break out the dial gauges, the fun is just beginning. NOT!

 

Stop trying to cheer me up Adam!
I went to the shop after work tonite & after checking, the cams are in the proper locations. The 1-4 & 5-8 embossments are on the cams. After some jockeying back & forth, the interference seems to be on the ramps of the cams. When I sent them out to be built up I wanted more area under the curve, similar to a domestic 'cheater' cam. In my opinion that's where the horsepower is on these engines, more so than other engines due to the shallow valve angle which restricts the maximum lift. After some trial fittings (to the factory 'gauge') the ramp is where it hits, not the nose. I think that's because of my design. I'm hoping that when I do the dial indicator checks it will be ok. I have no qualms about the dials, I use them all the time. The bummer is I won't have the time to do that until Saturday or Sunday morning. I was notified of a death in the family this afternoon (not my immediate) & I'll be tied up helping out nightly until then. The suspense will drive me up a wall but some things are more important than building a motor. My cam's ramps are much more rounded than the stock cams. BTW, when you or Louie asked me about the checking points of these cams I said it was at 1mm. I was wrong. I sent the cams out to Racer Brown Cams after I got them back to check to make sure they were done properly. ( the owner is a friend of mine) He confirmed that they were done to my specs, but the checking point was .003". I was wrong. So don't worry, you won't see me at Bonneville as Louie joked. Lol.

Regards, Hammer

 

Can you go into (in maybe a new thread) some info on the cam change? Is this entirely possible for anyone? Was it super duper special secret stuff? I have already gotten S3 cams changed for the S4 head, but its tempting to get some more flow in the heads for my higher air flow needs.

 

Brendan,
You have my day number if you'd like. Feel free to call. This is a long subject. It's not super secret stuff at all.
However, cam profile is not nearly as important in a supercharged application.
The supercharger overcomes a multitude of camshaft shortcomings.
Now that you feel better let me say this. The kind of power levels you've said you're looking for may require extra measures in a 928 engine in my opinion. I'm not saying you can't do it. But I think to do it I would look into cams designed for a supercharged application. A domestic V8 could put out 700hp at the wheels without a supercharger. But a 928 is held back by many aspects of its design.
A large quantity of estrogen has just arrived. Gotta feed the animal.

Ta ta, Hammer

 

Thanks. Currently reading results on google search "Supercharger" "Cam specs" "lobe design"

 

Screw all this engine stuff, lets talk about that!

 

Thats what ive been trying to ask from the beginning.
the gauge will and should fit, if you rotate the cams slightly further. remember, there is no cam setting to do this measurement. you need to rotate them til they fit in to the tool. if you cant get them to fit, you might be a tooth or chain link off. one of the issues with the pointers, is that they dont exactly line up with the gear sprocket. if you pull out the micrometer and see how far they are apart, you may find out what you have.

Mk

 

The point is, if you cant get them to fit, you really got an alignment issue, because it is a "ball park" gauge!

the precision timing has nothing to do with the cams spacing based on their connection to each other. This is why they have the distance of 113mm between the pointers, and the tool to make sure no one screws it up. what a bummer to put the entire thing together and have to do it all over again.

So, lets see the distance, rotate the cams so the tool looks to fit, or count the spaces in the chain again. I think we have enough pictures here to help you determine what you have going. I dont think you have modified the cams enough to really throw the alignment tool off any. remember, i was using the S4 gauge on the GT cams which are pretty different. And, i think someone says that there is only one tool.

Let us know how it goes.

mk

 

Yo Mike..................Ever see a robin tryin' to pull a worm outta the ground?

Hammer

 

Did we ever find out why these cams didnt line up with the tool?? off a tooth, or just needed to be rotated more. was the distance between the cams the 113mm?????

inquiring minds want to know

mk

 

Interesting that you brought the cheater cam (Stock eliminator class) profile....

That's probably where I'm headed with my cams, as I am limited on lift due to cam being installed thru the ends of the cam towers......(unless I get really crazy and modify the cam towers)

But then again, only we HEMI fans might know anything about cheater cams......


--Russ