The Twin Screw Thread
#1426
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DITTO!!
Great job Ken
Great job Ken
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Originally Posted by Tony
Very clean! Do you have a pic taken from the angle shown below? How hard was it to move the coil and the jump start terminal..or what ever is in the way on your car?
I like that...looks great and is extremely functional it seems!![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
I like that...looks great and is extremely functional it seems!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
#1427
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Here are a couple of more pics...
The electrical and coil had to be moved and I had to find a small horn as the horns in the fender well had to be replaced.
I am including an e-mail from K & N which was a response to my sizing question.
Hi:
I am building a new cold air intake for my Porsche 928S.
The engine is a 5 liter 4 cam design with a 2.4 liter positive displacement supercharger & intercooler. (Autorotor - twin-screw run at 8 PSI )
I've reviewed your site and want to make sure that I have enough filter capacity so that it does not create a "drag" on the intake side of the equation.
First, I am not sure if just adding the volume of the supercharger to the equation is correct. In this example however using 302 cubic inches for the engine and another 144 cubic inches for the blower would yield a cubic inch displacement of 446.
Using your formula then 446 x 6500 divided by 20839 would yield an effective filtering area of 139.11. In the example you have with a 350 engine at 5500 needing 92.4, I would think that this number is pretty close.
Would you please advise if this effective filtering area would be sufficient.
Second, in looking at many of your filters I realize that I am going to need something larger than anticipated based upon the numbers above.
I would like to use a 3.75 - 4 inch interior diameter filter for the tubing from the filter to the MAF. It really would be helpful if your specification listing included the effective filtering area. The straight and tapered filters are pretty easy to determine but the oval tapered are a bit of a guessing game on my part. Can you give me the effective area on RF 1034?
Lastly, if you have any suggestions for a particular filter that would meet my needs I would appreciate your input.
Thanks for your time.
Ken Bigham
Celina, Ohio
Hello,
Your engine requires 877 CFM. That is 146 square inches of surface area. The RF-1034 will flow 975 CFM and has 162 square inches of surface area.
Thank you,
Leon S. Collins
K&N Technical Support
1-800-858-3333
This is the reducer that I used at the Maf from 4 inches to 3 3/4.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/detai...cc0e852d2d5a7f
and here is the link for the 90 degree.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/detai...cc0e852d2d5a7f
the straight portions are just a polished 4 inch aluminum tube.
In the pictures attached I revised the "crushed section" to make it a lot more rounded on both ends....I just don't have any pictures here yet. That made the whole assembly look better. At some point I plan on ditching all of this and making a one piece connector out of fiberglass.....but right now I'm having too much fun driving the car.
Hope this answers some of the PM's that I received.
I'm getting closer.
Ken
The electrical and coil had to be moved and I had to find a small horn as the horns in the fender well had to be replaced.
I am including an e-mail from K & N which was a response to my sizing question.
Hi:
I am building a new cold air intake for my Porsche 928S.
The engine is a 5 liter 4 cam design with a 2.4 liter positive displacement supercharger & intercooler. (Autorotor - twin-screw run at 8 PSI )
I've reviewed your site and want to make sure that I have enough filter capacity so that it does not create a "drag" on the intake side of the equation.
First, I am not sure if just adding the volume of the supercharger to the equation is correct. In this example however using 302 cubic inches for the engine and another 144 cubic inches for the blower would yield a cubic inch displacement of 446.
Using your formula then 446 x 6500 divided by 20839 would yield an effective filtering area of 139.11. In the example you have with a 350 engine at 5500 needing 92.4, I would think that this number is pretty close.
Would you please advise if this effective filtering area would be sufficient.
Second, in looking at many of your filters I realize that I am going to need something larger than anticipated based upon the numbers above.
I would like to use a 3.75 - 4 inch interior diameter filter for the tubing from the filter to the MAF. It really would be helpful if your specification listing included the effective filtering area. The straight and tapered filters are pretty easy to determine but the oval tapered are a bit of a guessing game on my part. Can you give me the effective area on RF 1034?
Lastly, if you have any suggestions for a particular filter that would meet my needs I would appreciate your input.
Thanks for your time.
Ken Bigham
Celina, Ohio
Hello,
Your engine requires 877 CFM. That is 146 square inches of surface area. The RF-1034 will flow 975 CFM and has 162 square inches of surface area.
Thank you,
Leon S. Collins
K&N Technical Support
1-800-858-3333
This is the reducer that I used at the Maf from 4 inches to 3 3/4.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/detai...cc0e852d2d5a7f
and here is the link for the 90 degree.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/detai...cc0e852d2d5a7f
the straight portions are just a polished 4 inch aluminum tube.
In the pictures attached I revised the "crushed section" to make it a lot more rounded on both ends....I just don't have any pictures here yet. That made the whole assembly look better. At some point I plan on ditching all of this and making a one piece connector out of fiberglass.....but right now I'm having too much fun driving the car.
Hope this answers some of the PM's that I received.
I'm getting closer.
Ken
#1428
Inventor
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Where do you get the throttle body/hose adapters? Were they custom made? I've seen MAF adapters on the internets, same thing?
I'm thinking about trying to delete the intake 'U' on my '86, by rotating the center 'T' section rearwards, and moving the MAF...
I'm thinking about trying to delete the intake 'U' on my '86, by rotating the center 'T' section rearwards, and moving the MAF...
#1429
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Ken:
If you mean the straight section between maf and throttle body I think that was just a straight piece of 3 1/2 inch hose. The link in my post above with the reducer and 90 degree has an incredible selection of hose, 45, 90 and "hump" connectors. Nice quality and good price.
Hope that helps...
Ken
If you mean the straight section between maf and throttle body I think that was just a straight piece of 3 1/2 inch hose. The link in my post above with the reducer and 90 degree has an incredible selection of hose, 45, 90 and "hump" connectors. Nice quality and good price.
Hope that helps...
Ken
#1431
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Ken,
There's a piece bolted to what would be the bottom of the 85-86 throttle body. A flat plate with a 3.5"(?) piece of pipe welded to it?
Your setup looks great, BTW!
That dull compressor pulley needs something though...maybe Tony or Norm can hook you up.![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
There's a piece bolted to what would be the bottom of the 85-86 throttle body. A flat plate with a 3.5"(?) piece of pipe welded to it?
Your setup looks great, BTW!
That dull compressor pulley needs something though...maybe Tony or Norm can hook you up.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![](http://www.aerospaceweb.org/aircraft/jetliner/a380/a380_13.jpg)
#1432
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Originally Posted by PorKen
Ken,
There's a piece bolted to what would be the bottom of the 85-86 throttle body. A flat plate with a 3.5"(?) piece of pipe welded to it?
Your setup looks great, BTW!
That dull compressor pulley needs something though...maybe Tony or Norm can hook you up.![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![](http://www.aerospaceweb.org/aircraft/jetliner/a380/a380_13.jpg)
There's a piece bolted to what would be the bottom of the 85-86 throttle body. A flat plate with a 3.5"(?) piece of pipe welded to it?
Your setup looks great, BTW!
That dull compressor pulley needs something though...maybe Tony or Norm can hook you up.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![](http://www.aerospaceweb.org/aircraft/jetliner/a380/a380_13.jpg)
To quote along the lines of one of my all time favorite Farside "aviation themed" cartoons..
"unknowingly PORKEN initiates disaster by introducing the Axial flow compressor to the Twin Screw-Centrifugal-Turbocharger debate"
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
#1433
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I didn't mean to get you all 'huffy' - I was just talking about the spiral pattern!
![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
#1434
Under the Lift
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Ken:
NICE JOB.
You have implemented what I have only planned - the motorcycle radiator as heat exhanger. I have a radiator that I THINK will fit in the wheel well, but I may be relegated to your location. I'd rather not dump any more heat in front of the main radiator and I still have the AC radiator (yours appears to be removed).
QUESTION: Are you using anything as a coolant rerservoir to increase the capacity like Andy and Murph used the window washer bottle?
I see a cable bracket on the top of the throttle housing that looks familiar, although I see it has a custom cable going directly to it. Nice.
Finally, you might want to look at AEM filters. They are synthetic (not cotton) and require no oil. I am using one.
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=93
NICE JOB.
You have implemented what I have only planned - the motorcycle radiator as heat exhanger. I have a radiator that I THINK will fit in the wheel well, but I may be relegated to your location. I'd rather not dump any more heat in front of the main radiator and I still have the AC radiator (yours appears to be removed).
QUESTION: Are you using anything as a coolant rerservoir to increase the capacity like Andy and Murph used the window washer bottle?
I see a cable bracket on the top of the throttle housing that looks familiar, although I see it has a custom cable going directly to it. Nice.
Finally, you might want to look at AEM filters. They are synthetic (not cotton) and require no oil. I am using one.
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=93
#1436
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Ken,
[Question:FONT=Arial]There's a piece bolted to what would be the bottom of the 85-86 throttle body. A flat plate with a 3.5"(?) piece of pipe welded to it?[/FONT]
That piece came with Andy's kit....I'm not sure where he sourced it.
Question: You have implemented what I have only planned - the motorcycle radiator as heat exhanger. I have a radiator that I THINK will fit in the wheel well, but I may be relegated to your location. I'd rather not dump any more heat in front of the main radiator and I still have the AC radiator (yours appears to be removed).
Bill:
I looked at going into the fender wells, but decided I would have to run two exchangers instead of one. With the AC condensor gone, I'm still not anywhere near as restrictive as I was previously. What most motorcycle mechanics will tell you is that the fan on the radiator is also there to helpp blow air over the engine and the "output" through that little corner of the radiator is good. I had considered shrouding it in, but after two days at Mid Ohio running the car flat out without any temperature issues, I plan to leave it alone.
QUESTION: Are you using anything as a coolant rerservoir to increase the capacity like Andy and Murph used the window washer bottle?
I'm using the windshield washer bottle, with the new radiator and pump mounted up front the capacity was just a little over 3 gallons. I'm not sure what the return temp to the intercooler should be, but my pyrometer was showing 126- 128 input to the heat exchanger and a steady 105-106 return line to the intercooler. So...that little radiator was working pretty hard.
Question: I see a cable bracket on the top of the throttle housing that looks familiar, although I see it has a custom cable going directly to it. Nice.
I actually posted my first rough draft of that bracket in this thread post number 926. The throttle cable is my stock 85 cable.
and here is the correct link for the 90 degree. http://www.siliconeintakes.com/detai...cc0e852d2d5a7f
I think the K & N filter will work fine....you just can't over oil them.
Thanks for all of the positive feed back and what is the next size smaller pulley? What boost number should I expect and who has one?
Ken
[Question:FONT=Arial]There's a piece bolted to what would be the bottom of the 85-86 throttle body. A flat plate with a 3.5"(?) piece of pipe welded to it?[/FONT]
That piece came with Andy's kit....I'm not sure where he sourced it.
Question: You have implemented what I have only planned - the motorcycle radiator as heat exhanger. I have a radiator that I THINK will fit in the wheel well, but I may be relegated to your location. I'd rather not dump any more heat in front of the main radiator and I still have the AC radiator (yours appears to be removed).
Bill:
I looked at going into the fender wells, but decided I would have to run two exchangers instead of one. With the AC condensor gone, I'm still not anywhere near as restrictive as I was previously. What most motorcycle mechanics will tell you is that the fan on the radiator is also there to helpp blow air over the engine and the "output" through that little corner of the radiator is good. I had considered shrouding it in, but after two days at Mid Ohio running the car flat out without any temperature issues, I plan to leave it alone.
QUESTION: Are you using anything as a coolant rerservoir to increase the capacity like Andy and Murph used the window washer bottle?
I'm using the windshield washer bottle, with the new radiator and pump mounted up front the capacity was just a little over 3 gallons. I'm not sure what the return temp to the intercooler should be, but my pyrometer was showing 126- 128 input to the heat exchanger and a steady 105-106 return line to the intercooler. So...that little radiator was working pretty hard.
Question: I see a cable bracket on the top of the throttle housing that looks familiar, although I see it has a custom cable going directly to it. Nice.
I actually posted my first rough draft of that bracket in this thread post number 926. The throttle cable is my stock 85 cable.
and here is the correct link for the 90 degree. http://www.siliconeintakes.com/detai...cc0e852d2d5a7f
I think the K & N filter will work fine....you just can't over oil them.
Thanks for all of the positive feed back and what is the next size smaller pulley? What boost number should I expect and who has one?
Ken
#1437
Under the Lift
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Ken:
Andy had a chart for the pulleys and PSI on his old forum. Let me see if I can locate it. However, unless you are going to do some further fuel delivery mods, you are probably close to as high as you should go. Do you have access to a Sharktuner and dyno?
EDIT: Andy's supermodel928 forum is offline now.
Andy had a chart for the pulleys and PSI on his old forum. Let me see if I can locate it. However, unless you are going to do some further fuel delivery mods, you are probably close to as high as you should go. Do you have access to a Sharktuner and dyno?
EDIT: Andy's supermodel928 forum is offline now.
#1440
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The 90 degree bend on Ken's car looks like you can make them fit the 2 openings on the radiator shroud and feed each one with a K & N filter. Run some pipes from the radiator shroud to the maf with a reducer and you have cold filtered air. Has anyone considered this?