BrianG

Indeed, the existing hole(s) will work, according to the fresh engineer..... BUT if the pump has to suck as well as blow, more pumping power is required.... which is to say that sub-optimal flow at any point, in or out, costs power to the driveshaft...... which is why I am so enamoured of John's through-the-cowl pieces.

BrianG

I can see a number of ways to grow that filter so I'm casting out to John to see if I can scam some of those bits....

Anyone have any contact info for him... other than the possible email link shown here in his profile?

Louie928

John is over on the Pelican forum.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/forum...ne=&forumid=15

Vlocity

The new 8 rib pulley is here. The diameter is 2.5 inches versus the 2.75 inch 6 rib pulley.

I was looking to gain just one more pound of boost. I made a quick pulley removal tool, (screws replaced with bolts after a trip to Ace hardware) and made a quick swap.

My math was correct and I am now at a solid 8 psi. I don't have any track time scheduled, so I am just doing some street driving with the low octane loop plugged together for a little extra safety.

You can certainly feel the difference and the sound from the 424 twinscew is up one more notch on the urgency scale.

I wish that I had a temp sensor to get my post intercooler intake temp....but I don't. One thing to do if I ever have to pull the manifold.

Does anyone have any water temperature numbers after the heat exchanger?
I am using my pyrometer and after the system is good and heat soaked I am getting a 104 - 106 degree temp returning to the intercooler. I'm just curious what other people are seeing and if I should optimize my heat exchanger more. I'm currently using a radiator from a 650 Yamaha with fan along with a 24 GPM Deandenbear water pump.

Thanks,

Ken

Darien

Sweet!! Where did you get the 8-rib? I've been looking for a 2.25 but KB doesn't go that small. I couldn't believe the prices that are out there!

I too would like to see some numbers before and after IC.

Bill Ball

Where did you mount the Yamaha radiator! I have fanned EX500 radiator I'm planning to squeeze into the wheel well.

Vlocity

The pulley is from Kenne Bell.

Bill:

I'm attaching a pic....its in front of the radiator. If I can get some real world heat exchanger numbers that show this isn't dropping the temp enough I was thinking about buying a pair of small motorcycle radiators and like you put them in the fenderwells. There are some motorcycles out there that actually run paired radiators so the size is the same and the capacity is upwards of 1000-1200 cc engine displacement. But it would be a lot of work for nothing if I'm already in an optimized range. I have the fan for the heat exchanger tied into my radiator fan and they both accuate at 175 degrees.

You can also see my 24 gpm Deadenbear pump mounted to the front rebar in the first photo.

BrianG

I suspect that there is a relationship between the sizes of the intercooler/heat-exchanger, and it's external radiator's size. Is there value is going LARGE with one while the other remains "small"?

Have you ever experienced a "draw" problem with your pump mounted so far from the reservoir? I mounted the pump Andy supplied up in the forward space in front of the fender well, and have has occasionally had circulation failure. Apparently that pump doesn't suck well enough to pull water up over the fender and into itself.....

Vlocity

The pump is actually mounted well below the static water height and I have had no problems at all. When I first turn on the key I can actually hear the water "running" into the windshield washer reservoir. The pump that Andy supplied was nothing more than a marine bilge pump with a RUBBER impeller. I can't imagine what a high failure rate that pump would have in our application. The Deadenbear pump is all billet. Not cheap at $280 but I'm pretty sure that it won't fail while on the track. The best thing is that it has only a 3 amp draw. The previous pump must have been in the 8- 10 amp range and really drew the juice at low idle.

If Dairen reads this post (or DR or Andrew), I'd like for him (them) to get some temperature numbers going into and out of the heat exchanger. With Andrew running 10 pounds of boost....he should really be heating up the charge.

That might give me a better idea of the safety margin or lack there of.

Thanks,

Ken

Vlocity

Just one more thought.... there is a difference between a self priming and non-self priming pump.

The old bilge pump I removed was self priming. The Deadenbear is not, so a little extra caution was needed to route the hoses.

Ken

Bill Ball

One thing I like about many of the MC radiators is they are fanned, so, you should be able to mount it out of the main air-stream so it doesn't dump into the already taxed main radiator. However, that's not the way they are supposed to be mounted, and most of the fans are just for assist when stopped. Still, I'm going to give it a try. The one I got has a substantial fan. George Suennen runs his heat exchanger in the wheel well with a fan. I think I have the same hefty pump, purchased through Dave at SLC Motosports. The other thing I'm not sure of is the need for a reservoir. I may mount a small one and leave the windshield washer system alone. There should be an optimum size, and at some point, depending on how much hose you run and how large the radiator(s) is/are, you shouldn't need on, but I don't know the physics of calculating that.

Vlocity

Bill:

Interesting thought...I hadn't even thought about not having a substantial reservoir. I even went so far as to draw my return from as low in the washer tank as I could get the fitting, just because I wanted to take advantage of the cooler water at the extreme bottom of the tank.....but again, that's just my shade tree approach. I have right at 3.5 gallons of capacity total....at least with this I won't be hitting any temperature spikes. Something that might happen with an undersized or limited capacity set up.

Ken

Tony

are you looking for the change in air charge temp through the intercooler or the change in the water temp flowing through it? The "air" side in my car has been wired with thermocouples since day 1. I thought about adding T-couples to the "water" side but never got around to it...pre/post intercooler and pre/post heat exchanger.
The little waterpump i use has worked fine so far. It sits at the lowest point in the system so it always has head pressure behind it.

Bill Ball

Yeah, I haven't sorted through it in my own head. It may be that a reservoir ALWAYS helps and the larger the better, but I'm not certain that is really true.

Vlocity

OK ....I'll be greedy and ask for both. All that I can measure right now is my water temperature drop after the heat exchanger. It's coming in at about 126 - 128 and returning to the intercooler at about 104 - 106 after a good heat soaking. I didn't see any rise in water temperature after the increase in boost from 7 to 8 pounds....so that is a good sign. But I am just trying to grasp if the system I have is good enough or if I should try to put an even bigger heat exchanger somewhere over the winter.

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Ken