all4woody

Vlocity,
DR is the man for the core,I bought two from him but can't remember the price. I am running an extra one in mine, and sent the other one to Pizza, but I am not sure if he is going to use it. I left him a message, but he may be off shore. He may be willing to sell it. I have mine running in tandum, but think I am going to change to one before the blower, and one after, this will cool the water before going into the tank.
Later, Woody

Vlocity

Woody:

Thats a pretty interesting idea, would you mount the first cooler in the original location ? Do you know if Pizza has any interest in selling his core?

Ken

all4woody

Ken,
The cooler is on it's way back to me, I will let you know when I have it. If you find another one, go ahead a get it, I can always use a spare.

all4woody

Ken,
I have my heat exchangers mounted one on each side with about 18 inches in between. I am getting ready to order two 7" puller fans that will help move more air to the radiator. This has not caused any cooling issues yet, but I am planning for a hot summer in Alabama.
Later, Woody

Bill Ball

I don't think this was covered yet...

Andy's kit, and I'm not sure about DR's, uses bolts in place of the manifold studs and a different manifold gasket. I was wondering if this is really necessary.

Am I using faulty reasoning when I note that the boost is very modest at the 6.5 PSI I will be running soon, less than the 20+ inches Hg peak vacuum seen on deceleration? That's 10 PSI or so, right? Even at idle the car is drawing 7+ PSI. Why not use the stock gasket, other than it is thicker than Andy's? Are the studs too short to use? Maybe.

Also, the stock nuts on the studs are torqued only to 11 lb-ft, but Andy asked for 22 lb-ft, then later upped that to 30 lb-ft. I think Andy was trying to address some suspected vacuum leaks, but I do not believe this was the source. When I tried to get my bolts to 30 lb-ft, I got the distinct sensation that bolts were pulling threads out of the block - the torque rose to a point and then stayed the same as I "tightened" the bolts, so I stopped. I can't see why the torque should be any higher than the stock 11 lb-ft.

I know the stock gasket is soft rubber and metal spacers are used to prevent excess compression. Those would have to be modified to use with Andy's manifold, but it would seem doable.

I've had my SC off for smog puposes and am getting ready to reinstall with an IC upgrade and 6.5 PSI pulley. Before I do so, I'd like to review this manifold mounting issue.

AO

Bill-
Good question. I don't know the material DR uses right now, but he told me he's working with the guy from Real Gaskets to get some made for the kits. I would think the 7lb-ft should be adequate as long as you use a good gasket sealant like "The Right Stuff." The only thing to be aware of is that you have to do them in a pattern like a head gasket and hit each one at least three times to ensure proper seating.

Bill Ball

The Right Stuff is certainly VERY sticky. I'd probably use it on the manifold side, but not on the block. Getting the manifold off in the future would be a pain. The stuff is somewhat soluble in carb cleaner and gas for cleanup once separated.

BrianG

I used the cork gaskets that Andy was supplying at the time I got my unit from him. I had the same "separation anxiety" that Bill speaks of, so I used non-hardening Yamabond gasket goo on the engine side and Right Stuff on the manifold side. Yamabond is a great product that has performed yeoman's service to me in more arenas than I care to discuss. It seals well and parts reasonably easily. It is gasoline proof, yet cleans up with mineral spirits quite easily.

I couldn't rationalize the huge increase in manifold fastener torque specified by Andy, so I step torqued the bolts in the expanding circle manner that Andrew speaks of. I used 5-10-15 lb steps and then re torqued after day 1 and found less than 10 lb remaining. I retorqued after day 2 and found slightly more than 10 lb remaining, so I took it to 15 lb again on day 2 and left it at that. Pulling threads in the head would suck big time!

I am pulling 17-18 inches of vacuum at idle, here at 3500' MSL so I feel that this demonstrates that there are no vacuum leaks. I tried the blown-smoke test for leaks and found no leaks. I'm snowed in the garage here, so I have not had the opportunity to make boost yet, so I can't attest to that part until the snow goes and I can get to the dyno.

For your pressure calculation 1 atmosphere is about 30 inches Hg, is about 14 psi. If idle is about 20 inches Hg, that's about 10 psi, so I make it that your calculations about sealing the same positive pressure as is usually seen on the vacuum side makes sense.

Hope this helps.

Bill Ball

OK. Well I'm hoping to leave the studs in an possibly use the stock gasket. But I think I'm going to find out that Andy went to bolts because the studs would not work. He was a pretty smart guy as to using what was there, so I would think he would have used the studs if he could.

Brian, I guess it will take a lot more global warming before you'll be able to enjoy the car year-round.

Tony

I cant recall what i Tq'd mine to but my biggest fear was deforming the top of the SC manifold with too much Tq on the bolts. The threads in the head appeared to be pretty beefy to me. I think you would damge the manifold before stripping them out. For a gasket i used some thin rubberized paper like stuff from PepBoys. I places a light film of teh rights stuff on either side...not a bead just a wide spread film, spread with an old plastic hotel room key. Worked fine. Its not thick so i didnt have to worry about compressing it after Tq'ing it down.

After my new O2 sensor my car is incredibly smooth now at idle. Im very curious to see what it does in this summer. It was then that the "lumpy" idle seemed to raise its head. No signs so far..even when teh car is well up to operating temp!

Bill Ball

Tony:

Nice to hear the new O2 was so effective. I have a new one in mine as well and will be interested to see what it does for the warm idle once I get the SC back on.

BrianG

I can't think of why there would be any problem with studs for mounting Andy's manifold. IIRC, it's pretty much a certainty that the OEM studs would be too short for the thickness of Andy's manifold, and bolts are a LOT cheaper than stud/nut combinations.

I used 4 - 100mm (4") bolts with the hex-heads cut off and the shafts lathed to a point, as placement guides when I set the manifold in place. I didn't want to risk misalignment of the gaskets with all that goop on them. I just got my wife on one side of the car and me on the other and we set the manifold onto the long, pointed studs and let it slide down precisely into place on the engine. I placed the bolts into the open holes, finger tight, then removed the long studs and placed the remaining 4 bolts.

Studs can be a pain to fit because they should bottom in their hole, and they should show a few threads above their nut. The bottoming torque can be a critical issue in a casting, and few of us have a stud fitting for our torque wrench. Also, it's often not a very pretty installation.

Indeed..... many people say "Global Warming" like it's a BAD thing!!

Rick Carter

Bill,
Rob is in the process of installing my intercooler, as he's doing this he is cleaning up the manifold, removing bolts (to reduce places for vacuum leaks), radiusing the manifold ports, etc. I've asked him to take a lot of pictures, when I saw him yesterday he said he was. I expect everything to be done in two weeks.

ceedee

i tried to look up deveks website to see more bout the twin screw.
but it won't let me i need to sign in???? what gives...?

AO

I don't believe DEVEK has a TS. 928 Specialists do. Try www.928gt.com