No, Darien........ you don't want to be on the back side of the brake-booster's check-valve. It's basically a big accumulator back there.

If you are, the transmission modulator valve will see vacuum when the throttle opening would normally show less (or no) vacuum at the manifold. The modulator will provide kickdown valve action late (or not at all) when you step on it.

I think it was DR that said that the vacuum pots in the FPR, fuel dampers, and modulator valve will all survive seeing boost, so there's no reason to not feed manifold vacuum/boost signal to them from the same place that you feed the by-pass signal.

 

Thanks Brian, before the SC install the tranny shifted perfect and would actually chirp 2nd. I know it was being fed by the T-body in the stock config, so shouldn't that be the logical choice? Now it eases into gear under boost instead of a firm shift.

 

Yes, you can pick up a pre-boost vacuum signal at the throttle body taps as well.
You just have to be careful since I understand that one of those taps is "ported", which means that it does not see vacuum until the throttle is a little opened. That's a feature usually related to ignition timing advance, or polution control equipment. Just check each port on the throtle body at idle and identify that there is vacuum at idle, and you are good to go.

My point was that you CAN pick the modulator valve signal from off of all that vacuum spaghetti at the back end of the manifold if you like.

It should "ease" the WOT shifts now....... with the persistent vacuum signal to the modulator valve, the tranny is being told that the throttle is at least partially closed (producing vacuum) and it thinks the driver is in "comfort" mode. (Which we know that you A/F jet-wrench guys don't even own!!)

 

Brian, unfortunately I didn't type it. I generally wrote a one line summary and referenced the post # and page. I'd be happy to try and fax it if you like. I have an eaton so the notes are for that application.

 

FWIW, I got my Magnuson By-Pass valve. Bill, I can see why Andy routed the vacuum hose from the manifold to the valve since the hose on the by-pass valve that goes to the vacuum actuator is plumbed into the manifold side of the butterfly, thus it would see boost. I read somewhere in this thread that you moved the hose to the throttle side of the intake and it helped your rough idle. That makes sense. Has anyone else re-routed the hose to the by-pass valve?

If anyone is needing a new by-pass I was able to order it directly from Magnuson, $82 delivered.

 

Yes, moving the hose seemed to help the rough idle, but on the dyno, it reduced the torque below 3K RPM. You know, the crazy high torque you get with an automatic torque converter (multiplier) before it locks. So, it appears having the bypass actuated on manifold seeing boost snaps the bypass shut faster. I could not see any difference on the boost gauge or watching the bypass move, but the dyno showed it and it was rather pronounced. Actaully that makes no sense, as the Dynapac spends 3 or 4 seconds holding the car steady at 2500 RPM before it lets the rear wheels go. The valve seems to shut fully at atmospheric. I mean, I get the same peak numbers after 3K RPM with the valve hooked either way. I still wonder why Andy insisted the bypass be hooked to the manifold.

 

How close to the A/C pulley does the supercharger belt come? I'm beginning to seriously look into having a supercharger pulley attached to the A/C pulley and I need specs on how far from the edge of the pulley the belt rides. Thanks

 

So, you need the distance on Andy's crank pulley from the AC pulley/belt to the edge of the SC belt. Tonight when I get home.

 

Thanks Bill.

 

OK, I measure 5/16 or 8mm from the face of the AC pulley (not the lip) to the edge of the first rib on the SC pulley.

Ignore the parallax error from this angle. It looks like 1/2 inch, but it is 5/16 seen from directly above. This is just to show you where I measured. No SC belt on at the moment.

 

Exactly what I needed, thanks!

 

Does anyone know what the heater core that Andy supplied for the heat exchanger matches up with?

I am thinking about doubling it up in series. I ordered one from a 3.8 liter Ford Windstar, but it looks too small. I'm also replacing the pump with a Deadenbear for more flow rate.

Thanks,

Ken

 

Cameron bought one, I believe from DR. It seems to help cool down quiote a bit, we compared temps at the track the other day. I will add one as well. In regards to flow rate, I think more is not necessary better. If the water flows too fast it won't cool down enough.

 

I e-mailed DR but didn't get a reply on the heater core.

The pump I plan to install is the same one that Carl Faust has been using on his race car with good results. The new pump also will be quieter and draws only 3 amps and does not have a rubber impeller like some of the pumps that came with the original kit.

Thanks,

Ken

 

It's probably best to give Dave a call.