Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

The Twin Screw Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-19-2016, 04:54 PM
  #2551  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 338 Likes on 244 Posts
Default

The nearly 500 stock HP isn't serious enough? Most 928 owners would wish if they had 400, let alone 500hp.
Old 04-19-2016, 05:24 PM
  #2552  
BC
Rennlist Member
 
BC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 25,147
Received 73 Likes on 54 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Imo000
The nearly 500 stock HP isn't serious enough? Most 928 owners would wish if they had 400, let alone 500hp.
Its difficult to describe. Its seems like alot at first... Then you get used to it.

Power, search for traction, More Power... Search for more traction.

All while fighting major heatsoak.
Old 04-20-2016, 10:26 AM
  #2553  
Chris Lockhart
Rennlist Member
 
Chris Lockhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Taylors, S.C.
Posts: 2,150
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by davek9
Hello all Twin Screw R's to date I've only made it to page 80 of this thread trying to learn about the Twin Screw do's and don'ts and most importantly what work and mods Charles W. Pizzolato did.
I'll say this my hat is off to that man, nice job and some real extra efforts improving the kit and making mods available to others here. Also most impressed as always by this group of enthusiasts and the info shared, hopefully I too can contribute as I learn.

After running the car a few times, and taking it out on a Friday / Saturday night I'll say this Boost is addictive and received many a thumbs up after blasting off from a light
I've decide to keep the SC and move it to another car that already has a limited slip diff as I never see these SC units come up for sale and once set up they seem to be completely reliable.

Does any one know how many twin screw units are out there running around on 928's counting DR's?

Thanks,
Dave
Lol, I feel better that I'm not the only one. I think I'm up to around page 135 so far. I wish I could find a twin screw (that I could afford) to replace the Eaton on my original Keel set-up. Like you said, you just do not see these superchargers come up for sale. I'm always watching flea bay and Racing Junk.com to try and find a used Autorotor.
Old 04-20-2016, 11:18 PM
  #2554  
bd0nalds0n
Three Wheelin'
 
bd0nalds0n's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Diego, CA USA
Posts: 1,868
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Chris Lockhart
Lol, I feel better that I'm not the only one. I think I'm up to around page 135 so far. I wish I could find a twin screw (that I could afford) to replace the Eaton on my original Keel set-up. Like you said, you just do not see these superchargers come up for sale. I'm always watching flea bay and Racing Junk.com to try and find a used Autorotor.
If you switch out the Eaton for an Autorotor, won't you need a new manifold? Or do the all the mounting holes line up identically?
Old 04-22-2016, 06:49 AM
  #2555  
Chris Lockhart
Rennlist Member
 
Chris Lockhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Taylors, S.C.
Posts: 2,150
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bd0nalds0n
If you switch out the Eaton for an Autorotor, won't you need a new manifold? Or do the all the mounting holes line up identically?
Different hole pattern but there are easy ways to plug the Eaton mount holes, either tapping/installing set screws or plug welding. Plus I have a blank upper intake that I can machine if necessary.
Old 05-13-2016, 10:31 AM
  #2556  
Chris Lockhart
Rennlist Member
 
Chris Lockhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Taylors, S.C.
Posts: 2,150
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

I had already determined that the s/c pulley needed better belt wrap, and modified the existing tensioner bracket to add another pulley to help this. Thought I was done. Then, thanks to Tony Harkin's photos of his upgraded tensioner bracket WAY back in the middle of this 10 year thread, I decided to attempt to emulate his modification, so I had to start over from scratch. It seemed that every day I was seeing something else that I didn't like, and wanted to change. I hated the fact that there apparently isn't a 17 mm od standard or shoulder bolt for the tensioner pulley, so I got a .750 OD x 5/8-11 thread and a matching t slot nut. Then had the od turned down to .669" so it fit the ID of the pulley properly. Machined a proper spacer to set the gap between bracket and pulley, instead of 10 freaking washers like was on there originally. Then for the upper pulley to help with belt wrap, I had a pedestal machined so that I could have the correct gap, and not have to mess with shoulder bolts and t-nuts. Large diameter bolt from the back to hold it in whatever position within the range of adjustment, and a smaller diameter bolt and washer to hold the pulley on the pedestal. Plus I added an adjuster mechanism for the tensioner pulley. I'm pleased so far. Not sure whether to paint, powder coat, leave raw, or polish the bracket. We'll see.
Attached Images   

Last edited by Chris Lockhart; 05-16-2016 at 10:25 AM.
Old 05-13-2016, 10:34 AM
  #2557  
Chris Lockhart
Rennlist Member
 
Chris Lockhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Taylors, S.C.
Posts: 2,150
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Another pic. Basically this kind of thing gives me something to tinker with during break time at work, and at home while I'm waiting on funding, or services.
Attached Images  
Old 05-13-2016, 10:41 AM
  #2558  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 338 Likes on 244 Posts
Default

Cool! I would leave it unpainted or at a minimum, leave the areas where the adjustment occurs unpainted.
Old 05-13-2016, 12:31 PM
  #2559  
Chris Lockhart
Rennlist Member
 
Chris Lockhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Taylors, S.C.
Posts: 2,150
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Imo000
Cool! I would leave it unpainted or at a minimum, leave the areas where the adjustment occurs unpainted.

Thanks. I think I probably will leave it unpainted.
Old 05-14-2016, 11:19 AM
  #2560  
Chris Lockhart
Rennlist Member
 
Chris Lockhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Taylors, S.C.
Posts: 2,150
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Darien, here's Tony's pulley bracket that was my inspiration. It may have been a copy of Louie Ott's, but I'm not sure because I can't see the pics of Louie's. (I guess it's been so long that they don't exist anymore.) I did see one pic somewhere that showed a very similar adjuster setup for the tensioner to the one I did, but it was on the front side instead of the back of the bracket. My setup can be swapped to the front, and I very well may do that, as it would give more support to the shoulder bolt/spacer for the tensioner pulley. We'll see.

Also a pic of mine just mocked up hanging off the supercharger snout. S/C pulley is not bolted on so the alignment looks wrong.
Attached Images   
Old 05-14-2016, 11:23 AM
  #2561  
Chris Lockhart
Rennlist Member
 
Chris Lockhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Taylors, S.C.
Posts: 2,150
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Here's an earlier mockup including the crank pulley. It gives a much better impression of how it will look when installed. I did this before I had fabbed/installed the adjuster mechanism.
Attached Images  
Old 05-14-2016, 01:49 PM
  #2562  
Darien
Rennlist Member
 
Darien's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 2,644
Received 241 Likes on 106 Posts
Default

I love it There are slight changes to be made for the S3, but it would be awesome to have that upgrade!

Here you can see how the Throttle mount bracket come into play.
Attached Images   

Last edited by Darien; 05-14-2016 at 02:07 PM.
Old 05-16-2016, 10:22 AM
  #2563  
Chris Lockhart
Rennlist Member
 
Chris Lockhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Taylors, S.C.
Posts: 2,150
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Ooh, that is tight. You might not be able to use this type, as it needs a straight run down the driven side from the s/c pulley down to the crank pulley. Looks like the throttle mechanism bracket is right smack in the way, unless the camera angle is making it look worse. if you have a yard stick, see if you can lay it against both pulleys without any clearance issues. If not then that's an issue. You could possibly add a third idler pulley to that side to route the belt away from/around the throttle bracket. I didn't realize how close that bracket was on the S3's.
Old 05-17-2016, 11:54 AM
  #2564  
davek9
Rennlist Member
 
davek9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bloomfield, MI
Posts: 5,146
Received 345 Likes on 191 Posts
Default

Removing the Andy Keel intake and it looks to be "glued" down ???
All 10 of the Intake to head bolts have been removed but this baby is stuck on hard.

Any suggestions or pry points that are safe to use?
I do not want to damage the intake or anything else at this point.

Thanks!!!

Dave K
Old 05-17-2016, 11:57 AM
  #2565  
Livio928
Pro
 
Livio928's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 700
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

probably used an RTV type sealant and a little bit of prying with slight leverage is required. Do you have photos?


Quick Reply: The Twin Screw Thread



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 02:15 AM.